Electric AC Compressor, talk to me.

I have an offtopic V8 S10 with a healthy 350 Chevy in it with factory AC. The AC works fine, and wasn't an issue when the truck had a mild 305 in it. Now that I got the wild hair up my *** and decided to replace the very reliable, but worn out 305 with a very radical 350, I don't use the AC. Since the truck has the factory AC, I'd like to use it. Problem is I don't like the drag the AC compressor puts on the motor. Has anyone used the electric AC compressors that are out there. I've done some research, but haven't found much info yet. The truck has one of those typical aftermarket AC compressors, Sanyo maybe? It would be nice if something was out there that would be a direct replacement for what I have. Thanks for any help you can give.

 

There is no free lunch. Use the belt driven compressor. A belt drive is more efficient than running an extra large alternator to drive an electric motor to drive an AC compressor.

 

Are you concerned about the drag of the compressor when it's being used? or when it's not being used?

 

Or rpms @ idle when Ac clutch engage to low ?
If so use older 70s-80's throttle solenoid.
Its adjustable .
Kick up , when Ac on , solenoid power up cracks open ****erflies on carb .
Or there ways to add a IAC .

 

You don't use the A/C when trying to "holeshot" someone in the other lane.

Electric A/C's require a decent alternator to keep the battery charged [this robs power]

 

You will need a giant alternator , big cables , and a place to mount it ? It's like the bulldog fighting the skunk , he can whip it , but is it worth the trouble ???

 

Just go with the belt driven. Yes it uses a few HP when running, but almost nothing when it's not compressing.

 

Seems strange that the power draw to run the AC is a concern now that you have way more power available.

 

I was thinking the same thing. The wore out 305 pulled the compressor just fine, but the big HP 350 can't?
Turn off the AC when you are going to race, the extra free wheeling AC pulley and the belt won't cost you that much HP, if it does, you just need to build more HP!

 

It never ceases to amaze me how people think that using a compressor that is driven by a 12volt electric motor is more efficient than a belt drive.... the math just tells you it's dead wrong.

 

Thanks for the replies. I was just wondering how they work, if they are worth it, apparently they're not. Yes the new motor runs it just fine. Yes I can put a throttle solenoid on it. Yes I can just turn it off. Sometimes I'm sorry I ask questions.

 

Drag on engine ,,,
Where ?
@ idle
Cruise
Wot
All the time .
Or is it Over charged
Going bad
Is all parts same from 305 to 350
Clutch fan , water pump , pulley
Was 305 reverse water pump or vice verse,
Same compressor ? Just does not make makes sense ?
What cam is in 350 ,
Timing @ idle
what rpms are you idling @ , do you need a little over stock torque converter like 1,200 with new cam If auto Trains .
Don't you want to know WHY ?
& No a Electric compressor not a
good idea / fix ...

 

Info here:
https://vintageair.com/tech-topic-is-an-electric-compressor-a-good-option-for-my-hot-rod/

 

The newer Sanden compressors do not drag down engines like Frigidaires and definitely don’t need 2 belts..

 

All the replies given have been respectful and valid. I can't see where anyone has been out of line.

 

It is an informative discussion.

 

This is a video about his install of a 12v compressor. There is also a 2nd video about making it better. He says it works but needed upgrades, mostly to the blower setup. If you plumb the compressor to the factory airbox it should work great

 

I didn't say anybody was. Sorry if it came across that way. Thanks again for the replies.

 

Great! I'll be watching that.

 

This is exactly the info I was looking for. I searched YouTube, and I did a google search before I asked the question here, and nothing really came up. So it looks like it would work, and probably work pretty good in my application as all I'd replace is the compressor. Now is it going to be worth doing it just to get rid of a belt driven compressor? Maybe, I'll have to decide that myself. The AC works really well now, I do have a throttle positioner solenoid I could put on pretty easy. I will do that first and see how that works. I have a good alternator in it already that would probably work just fine. In the end I will probably keep the setup I have, and just install the throttle position solenoid. Thanks for all the replies. I do appreciate it.

 

If it's on the internet it must be true .

This, however, is also from the internet, Vintage Air website to be specific and can be found at Tech Topic: Is an Electric Compressor a Good Option for My Hot Rod?

Over the years, we have received a number of questions regarding electric compressors, and whether or not they are available through Vintage Air. Since the 1990s, our engineers have tested numerous electric compressors as part of Vintage Air’s comprehensive research and development program, and we have used them in several all-electric vehicle applications, including the 1990s-era Ford TH!NK.

With that being said, Vintage Air is committed to selling only the best-performing aftermarket air conditioning components. As a result, at this time we do not offer an electric compressor in our catalog because we do not recommend their use in your muscle car or hot rod.

 

In that case I would get two of them and use the second one to supercharge.......

 

When engineered correctly there is no reason they cannot function. EVERY Tesla has one. I believe the alternator is the key and the smaller the p***enger space ….the better!

 

Most hybrid and electric cars use a high voltage 3 phase a/c compressor, not 12 volt

 

My boss used to say, "You gotta tell them. Then, you gotta tell them again and again and again." It's useless to do the math because so few understand it but unless you want to provide 180-200 amps to a 12vdc compressor, there is no way you're going to get the same performance. Oh, and use welding cables to wire everything.

 

I watched the video. The guy stresses that the compressor pulls 60 amps at start up. That probably translates to around 40-50 amps normal draw. The unit he bought had a condenser fan, that added another 45 amp draw that would not be needed if the current motor driven fan is still being used on your ride. His biggest complaint was the inside blower unit, which also wouldn't be an issue with a current operating AC system.

A 60 amp draw at start up, and a constant 40-50 amp draw all the time the unit is running is still a pretty big electrical draw, over and above the normal added amp draw the vehicles AC system consumes. To be safe, one would need to upgrade the alt and the wiring in the charging system for that extra 60 amp draw. Then the challenge is when you are sitting at a red traffic light, and you get to watch the volt meter drop down to 12.7 or lower.

 

I had a chance to help tinker with some Prius accessories with a friend building an OT conversion. That AC compressor uses an inverter to convert 200-300VDC to up to 400VAC. There is a 12V control circuit that controls the refrigerant flow and the compressor itself.
It's the high voltage that makes the things feasible in an EV. I can't see it being an effective approach at 12-48VDC.

 

What is not taken into consideration here is compressor displacement, i.e. the amount of refrigerant that can be pumped at a certain rpm. I am sure these small electric compressors don't pump the amount of refrigerant that belt driven ones do and, therefore, their ability to remove heat quickly from the p***enger compartment is compromised. It takes more power to remove more BTU's, regardless of whether it's electric driven power or belt driven power. Most people ***ume a compressor to draw 3-5 HP at max load. Just to keep it simple, That's about 2200 watts, which would require 180 amps. So, that system is maybe capable of 1/3 or less of the cooling capacity of a belt driven system.

I think most of the people doing positive reviews of these systems are selling them.

 

Sure got a lot of info when asking about this. It seems most here don't like it. But what I've learned is this, will it work? Yes. Will it work for what I was asking about, as far as cooling the inside of an S10 Pickup? Yes. Am I going to do it after getting all this info? No. What I have works well, and with a few modifications, and updates, it will work even better. The money it will cost to change my current setup over to electric can be spent on improving what I have. I could install a better radiator if need be, this radiator has been in the truck close to 20 years, and is for a V6 S10. This new motor will get hotter than the last motor, that's to be expected. Maybe a V8 swap radiator? I mean the truck usually runs 180/190 unless it's stupid hot out. Better fans could be an option, which I've been looking into anyway. One of the problems I was having was throwing the AC belt, which in turn would take the other belt with it. I've fixed that problem and haven't thrown a belt since. I don't have a solenoid on there now to increase the RPM when I turn on the AC. I will do that. Would I do electric AC in the future on a different build, I would definitely think about it. Bottom line is this isn't the family Cadillac, it's a really fun truck to have fun with, and if it didn't have factory AC, It wouldn't have AC, but since it is a factory AC truck, I want to keep it, and have it working. Thanks again for all the replies.

 

I think nice S-10 , I would dive way it sets ,
@Fat *** Whitewalls
I still would like to know your definition " Load on Engine ?"
& know some more details to the questions I asked in post #12.
My cuisine installed a 6.0 Ls in this
V8 where not used or offered made,,,
He lives near Miami usually "hot" except right now . Since pic been lowered a few inches.
Fully loaded all electrical & all looks factory install like Gm would made.
70 k miles since v8 swap
Oem Radiator Oem Ac ,
People see can not believe Ls & Not factory made .
So your ride not mine ""But"" like to know your "Definition" load on engine,
I am sure its Something dum /easy needs ,
Myself I was probably the first one to put a Jap 2 JZ in a Pre War Hot Rod 32
In 2014