Technical Electric pulse type fuel pump

I am going wacky trying to think through a problem with the lights flickering, only does it when the fuel pump is connected to the circuit Is this a common problem with this type of pump? I am now leaning towards an impeller-type pump, suggestions?
The car in question is a 1950 Ford Prefect which was 6 volt and now wired for 12.
Thanks

 

Connected to what circuit? Use a relay so as to take power direct from battery instead.

 

Also could be bad grounds, most likely due to rust. Try improving the grounds at both the pump and the lights.

 

The pump goes from the ign switch to a fuse block and then to the pump, I am using the OEM ignition switch which controls all things electric, which includes BAT, Headlights, Taillights, Coil including fuel gauge, and sender . The only add-ons are the pump (fuel) and turn signals the OEM switch broke so I had to go with a column mount.
at present, I am removing the floorboard so I can get at the pump and check the connections I also should mention I am using 10g wire at the pump. I will keep you informed and thanks for the help.

 

OEM ignition switch did not originally have to supply an electric fuel pump. A relay is the solution to your problem.

 

Lights will flicker if a big load suddenly goes on and off on the same circuit. Check for voltage drops in the common parts of the circuit. Or put the pump on a separate circuit fed by a relay.

 

The fuel pump should have it's own dedicated circuit, activated by a pressure switch and controlled by a relay. I use an engine oil pressure switch to activate the circuit. When the engine isn't running the circuit is de-energized. I also have a switch to manually over ride the pressure switch, for priming the carb.
Hmm...see I lost some of my text after posting. Weird
Just wanted to add, doing it this way is safer and more efficient, due to the use of a pressure switch (engine stops, fuel flow stops), running the hot/feed directly to the relay (minimizing voltage drop), and switching the negative side of the relay coil (hot wires off of hot engine).

 

The problem is with the pump it is the type of pump that pulses darn near shakes the rivets loose ( yes the car is riveted to the frame) when it runs, it does not matter what circuit I use and I also tried it with the headlamp relay and it still pulses the electrical system sooooo I have ordered a new impeller pump enough of trying to save a buck.
I do appreciate the advice I tried it all and it came down to cheap eBay junk I should know better

 

Where are you pulling MAIN power from?

 

The battery is new I go from the battery to the fuse block to the ign switch from the ignition switch all circuits go through their own fuse and then to the pump, turn etc. This pump sounds like a flippen jackhammer, as I mentioned it was a cheapo 15 bucks right out of China. I do have access to the mechanical pump problem is it comes out of Great Britain and with the exchange rate so high and the shipping I figured on an electric. I good just have to decide Holly or Carter and how to break it to the wifey

 

Carter 4070

 

The best way to break it to her is over dinner - out.

 

I go from the battery to the fuse block to the ign switch from the ignition switch all circuits go through their own fuse and then to the pump, turn etc.

Sounds like the fuse is in between the battert and sw and between the sw and pump? Can you clarify please? The pump should be isolated from all other loads. /battery/fuse/relay/pump, Only the trigger lead for the relay should come from the switch.

The impeller type will be much quieter, but mounting the pulse pump with rubber isolation grommets will help a lot.

 

I have ordered the Carter 4070, I just hope my itty-bitty carby will be able to handle it heck the engine is rated at 10HP max speed is 50mph the rear gear is something around 5:12.
I am going to start a wall of screw ups with all the stuff I bought that does not work.
Stay Safe
Jim

 

[QUOTE="
I am going to start a wall of screw ups with all the stuff I bought that does not work.
Stay Safe
Jim[/QUOTE]
They are all the parts which you will find handy on your next build.
Try running a heavy gauge wire straight from the battery positive to the fuel pump. If the lights still flicker, re-do your earth connection. If they are OK, your problem lies in your supply. As mentioned, start looking at all connections, a good but undersized connection will give you such problems. Like sticking a bit of 1/4" water pipe in a 1" run.