If you have had an electrical fire in your car what caused it? What would you have done differently to prevent it? Bob
Most of the electrical fires I investigate in vehicles are caused by improper routing, poor insulation through firewall or rear seat panel. Loose or corroded battery cable ends, loose alternator wiring connectors and loose starter connectors. Using lock washers on electrical connectors will prevent them from loosening. Proper crimping of wiring connectors will prevent loosening and a potential to overheat. I prefer to crimp and solder all connectors.
When I was daily driving my '60 Fairlane the generator shorted out and started burning when I got home from work one night. Luckily it was winter and snow was on the ground, so I packed snow on the generator to "contain" things until I got the battery disconnected. Ended up getting the generator rebuilt at a shop over in Kansas City Kansas and no more problems with it. Gave new meaning to the phrase "spark it buddy". I hate fire, unless it's in the smoker loaded with ribs! -Dave
Fuse sizes is another one. If the fuse is a way too big of a rating for the current then instead of popping it'll just heat up and up and up... Many flames will appear
Been there.... Nearly lit up three cars from electrical issues - caught just in time. But lost a few wires and fuses. Lesson learned is to install battery shut off and KEEP AN EXTINGUISHER IN EACH VEHICLE!
I've been a car and truck mechanic since 1970. Dealerships to DOT fleet. Can't recall any shop fires, or fleet trucks lost to electrical fires. One went up in a hyd oil fire, blown line, during a blizzard. The only sketchy thing I saw was Mopars in the 70s when I was there, still foolishly ran heavy wires through the firewall/chafing on sharp underdash metal edges.... up to the amp gauge, and unprotected by fuse links etc. That's dumb, and not done by most rodders In my opinion, wiring caused fire would be very low on the list of fears. Gas has changed so much in the last decade, that it is "dangerous" in my opinion. The new gas plays havoc with carb equipped cars, causing carb overflowing, and also eats fuel pump diaphragms squirting gas out the weep hole, both of which should be of more concern to anyone who knows cars. Bob, A hot rod like built in the old ways, has so few wires that there honestly is nothing to be concerned with.
it's up pretty high on mine. Along with the other stuff you mentioned. The only issue I can remember with mine, was the positive battery cable shorting where it was too close to the header, this was a long long time ago. I got it disconnected in time and didn't cause any serious problems. I'm really careful about where wires go, make sure they're supported as needed, right size, fuses the right size, etc. Also careful with fuel lines, and I don't start an engine unless the air cleaner is on it (a rule I lived by at the junkyard I worked at long ago, and still follow). Lately I also keep an extinguisher in each car, and a wrench that fits the battery terminals, in the glovebox.
I always have one in each car. Not once have I ever had to use it on my own car, but have saved a few other people's cars from burning to the ground. Come to think about it, I've saved 4 cars and no one has ever offered to pay for the extinguisher. Maybe next time I'll get cash up front, lol.
I would say the number one issue I see guys do when wiring their cars is the lack of grommets or firewall blocks through sheet metal.
Have had to use extinguishers twice. Both times when fuel got mixed with electricity in the wrong place. Ultimately the fault was with the fuel not being in its assigned location. -Dave
Running a 100 Amp alternator thru an original amp gauge that was designed for a generator is a good way to start a fire. I've had a couple in the shop with the gauge melted, guess the owners were just lucky it didn't burn the car down.
Being that you "live" cars for decades, and build your own stuff, I am surprised you have wiring fire concerns. You state the old high shool screw-up with headers and main cable as your only? recollection. We can design a fool proof, fire proof system if we really get anal, by protecting each and every wire and component. But there really is no need on a simple build without all the power gadgets of a high end street rod. I just wired my 32 using either reconditioned GM switches, NOS old quality pieces, as well as some modern wire, and some NOS good condition "Packard" cloth covered wiring where it shows. Bobs constant threads about electrical fires, did subconsciously prompt me to install a batt kill switch right where I can drop my hand in front of the seat on floor. That is for a huge failure event. With that in place, and it being a very heavy duty switch with big contacts...not some offshore shit...I only have the main cable from battery to that switch, to worry about. I got the habit of killing it when I shut the car off each time, so it is now imprinted in my brain, where it is by feel, night or day...without thinking. So, if concerned about a catastrophic wire failure, make that one cable impervious to chafing/touching exhaust, etc, and sleep better.
I think that keeping the risk in mind all the time, keeps me from making stupid mistakes. I've never had to use a fire extinguisher....I want to keep it that way. A guy on Drag Week had an engine fire, during the drive between tracks. That kind of thing keeps me on my toes.
That is a comfort, you totally understand how the shit works and still know things can go very wrong. I can see two versions of my projects, all shinny and done, and a pile of ashes. Bob
I had a cheap reproduction starter switch in a Model A short out and start a small fire that I was able to put out. Charlie Stephens
I had a fire under the hood of my coupe in early Aug. I have home built inner fenders, and the battery resides under the hood. When you turn the front tires to either extreme, the tires rub on the inner fenders, just a little. Its been doing that for 5 years. The first year I looked it over real close and determined there wouldn't be a problem. I was wrong! As time marched on, the continuous tire contact with the inner fender allowed the wire bundle running to the left headlight and turn signal to be squeezed against the bottom of the steel battery box. After 5 years, and around 20,000 miles, the positive battery cable rubbed through the insulation, electrical tape, and that black wire loom covering, and shorted out against the battery box and welded itself to the box. When I repaired it, I had to cut the melted wire off the battery box with a cut off wheel! We were at a cruise night in my home town. The parking lot was full, I had to turn real sharp to the right to get out of the parking spot (the wife and I were going for a lap around town). At the street entrance of the parking lot, some one was talking to me through the passenger side window, and the car quit running, the lights went out, everything went dark. Someone told my there was smoke coming from under my hood. The car has an inside hood release, the under hood fire burned through the hood release cable. I had to get out of the car to open the hood from under the front end. As I laid on my side, the wires to the starter melted together, and the starter started cranking the motor. The car is a stick, and it was in gear (to keep it from rolling back into the parking lot). Fortunately, there were a lot of people around to slow the forward movement of the car, and then there was that one guy that grabbed my feet and pulled my leg out from under the tire that was about to run me over. I could feel the tire against the inside of my left knee, and the ground on the outside of my left knee and the tire was starting to squeeze my leg when the guy pulled me free! I ended up with some pretty rough road rash (on both sides of my knee, through new jeans), but that was much better then what could have been. Someone got in the car, stepped on the brake and the clutch, and I was able to open the hood, put out the fire, and pull a battery cable. All that was left was to push the car to the side of the street, thank everyone for their assistance, wait for the tow truck ride home, and visualize what could have happened! Two months before, the car was in the mountains in CO, and the next day it would have been a couple hundred miles away from home, both times with just me and my wife present! Someone was watching over me. I had to replace about a 6" section of the headlight and turn wiring, the positive battery cable, the battery (melted a hole in it), and the fire extinguisher. Somewhere in the process of putting the fire out, probably when the guy was saving my leg, my eye glasses got marred up and I had to buy a new lens for the one side. All told it was about a $400 experience that all happened in 3 minutes of time, but it could have been so much worse! The tire still rubs on the inner fender, but now it will not move the wiring, and I don't believe it can rub through the battery cable insulation anymore, but you can bet its something I will check often.. I've also added a hose for additional insulation on the outside of the positive battery cable. I've also updated the fusible link to a 6 circuit fuse panel. Yep, scared the crap out of me, my wife, and a lot of other people. Usually, when a fire starts in a car, you have less then a minute to save the car. Car fires are usually self feeding, once they start, they get out of control fast. If you don't have a fire extinguisher in your ride, put on in it today. Gene
About fifty five or so years ago, my dad's '56 F100 had a wiring meltdown/fire with me in the car, probably I was driving, too long ago to remember. But my recollection was that turning off the ignition did not stop the smoke and sparks. We got out and shut the door. it was s short between two wires and all wiring had to be replaced under the dash. Luckily, it did not go up in flames and the wires melted and separated first. The closed doors and windows may have kept the oxygen level from feeding a fire. I make ample use of fusible links under the hood, and run relays to the firewall to keep current low inside the interior. My only problem in recent years was a solenoid for my heater went bad and started smoking/melting a couple years ago. I turned off the engine hit the battery disconnect beside my seat, and got out. when the air cleared and the solenoid cooled down, I pulled off the wires to it, and continued on. The easily accessible battery kill switch took care of the problem before it got out of control. ...but I kept a fire extinguisher next to me for a few weeks after that.
In the late 70s dodge trucks the hot wire is routed thru the amp meter. If the connection gets a little loose it will result in burn wires . I have seen several of these trucks in salvage yards with this problem. Last anything that has Lucas on it is a fire looking for a place to happen. A lot of the brit cars came with positive ground and had batterys installed incorrectly. as stated before good fuses/ fuseable links and a fire supersor are all good to have and use... Bobby
On thing that is always needed is proper circuit protection. Properly sized fuses, fuse links, and circuit breakers help. If you are not sure what value of protection ton is needed, check and see what the modern factory setup is. Also check to be sure the wire gauge is correct. Most quality wiring kits already do that. Not all provide enough circuit protection though. One last thing. NEVER use or copy a Lucas electrical system. They don't call Lucas the Lord of darkness without reason!
amp meter, wires overheated on back due to poor crimp or loose nut on stud. So I allways use volt meters now.. or the inductive amp meter that is used in the late 30's Ford dash.
Stuck aftermarket voltage regulator. After pulling car into garage and shutting off engine. The generator burnt to a crisp. Seen smoke in the garage and found it. Installed a shutoff the next day.
I like to protect everything between the solenoid and rest of the car with a 50 amp fuse. Years ago I saw my brother put a too-big battery in his tray on an Impala, the battery was not tied down and shifted. Melted a portion of the inner fender and the positive cable was glowing orange when he popped the hood.
Once upon a time, I was installing SW gauges in my new '76 Jeep. In the process of installing the amp meter to the steel dash (see where this is going?), I tightened the "U" shaped clamp a little too much thereby grounding the full amperage to the steel dash. When I was all done, it replaced the battery ground wire and the smoke was let out of the wires in seconds. Fortunately, I had not yet even begun to tighten the battery cable and pulled it off the battery. That ended my affair with running full battery power into the interior. The wiring was easy to repair but pulling all the gauges to repaint the dash was time consuming. A voltmeter did just fine after that and since.
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