Ok so I went to test fire and check the electrical today. When I turned the ignition to acc the balast resistor started smoking. It's brand new. I tested 12v coming from the ign s/w into the resistor and only like 4v coming out and then comes the smoke. Can someone give me a diagram of proper ign wiring? I used one from here to wire it. I also have problems with the starter relay not getting 12v out to the starter. Have 12v in and on the ign start wire I turn the key and get 12v at that post but still nothing out of the relay to the starter. At the starter the big post and start post are jumpered together. Need a new relay maybe? Seperate problem. Here's what I got chevy 350 distributor has points using starter aux relay right now I have ign coil wire to resistor, out of resistor to + coil dist. Wire to - coil aux relay positive batt in (big post) heavy wire to starter out(big post) small start wire from ign s/w to aux small post other small post on aux relay goes to other small post on starter and also to + coil do I need the ign circuit tied into the starter and starter circuit? Can I use the aux relay for just the starter and ditch the ign wires from it and on the starter? Input or diagrams would be great, thanks
Sometimes they do that when they're brand new. Happens every time I install a new one on something. If it doesn't stop within a few minutes, you may have a problem.
try starting the engine? instead of leaving it sitting with the points closed and power to it Should be only getting power to the ballast resistor when they key is in the "run" position, not acc. The reason they have an acc position is to run the accessories without the ignition getting power.
Like bigrat said, you should more like 8-9 coming out. I would check the voltage while its running too.
If all else fails....wire it like GM did.. WTH is a aux relay, and do you need it? Like was said ACCY should not power the ballast. You say 4V at the coil...somethings wrong. Too much load will overheat the ballast. Wire it like gm. Problem solved.
Oh ya I mean run position, oops. Ok good to know, never installed a new resistor. How about the ign circuit being tied into the starter? Do I need to do that or just run them seperate. I'm a bike guy so not sure. On a bike it's totally seperate. Does anyone have a good gm diagram or basic gm diagram. Maybe a link to one. Thanks again, super quick responses!
skip the relay. I don't see why you want one. run one wire from coil + side to starter solenoid small outside terminal marked I for ignition. run the wire from key switch terminal marked I, to the input of the ballast. run output of the ballast to coil + side. run the starter crank wire on Ign switch that is marked S, to the inboard small terminal marked S on the solenoid. run the dist points/cond wire to - term on coil. How it works: With just the key ON, power to feed the coil will only get there by going through the ballast.(so it will be less than 12v, IF the points are closed) It will read 12 if the points are open (no load) When you "crank it", the solenoid movement puts full voltage OUT of the I terminal on the solenoid, which will byp*** the ballast and goes directly to power the coil...but only when cranking. 4 volts at coil is not right...something is putting too much load on the ballast. Ballasts are simple wire resistors and these types of resistors will show much lower output volts if the load increases beyond specs. A resistor will also read higher, if there is very little load on it.
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