1 st like I said I don't know about electrical and the meter. Please check and see if I have in on the right setting in the pictures.1st pictures shows the voltage coming out of the ballest, 2 picture is the voltage going to to the coil, 3 rd is the test light during cranking and running.Yes the testlight stays on. 4th picture is looking at the starter solenoid from underneath. The yellow wire is on the right looking up at it , then the main battery wire, then on the left is a black wire. OK now what guys View attachment 2793477 ?Thanks Bruce.
If the points never make contact, the voltage at the ballast resistor will be very close to battery voltage, and the test light will stay on. I'm assuming you have a point ignition still, that it hasn't been converted to electronic. I haven't been following the history of your current problems.
Yeah, just what exactly are you looking to check? No start condition? If forced to guess, I'd say that if the key is 'on' (not at the 'start' position), the ballast resistor may be bypassed. What's the voltage on the other side of the resistor? And how does that compare to battery voltage?
Everybody needs to understand that this the Bruce's fourth thread on this same issue. Pretty much everything has been discussed and asked, including how much voltage going in and coming out of the ballast resistor (with and without the hot jumper wire to coil). These are answers to those repeated questions, after arrival of a volt meter. Bruce, there seems to be a problem with search function, but if we can find your threads by scrolling thru the list, so can you. Please read thru all four again. And good luck.
Yeah no shit ! Makes it hard to help, because it's 4x harder to follow. You have 12 volts hot wired on the pink wire to the coil post that also shares the yellow wire. ( from the other thread) Test invalid. Btw that WILL burn up your coil. And wtf is hiding in those knots of wire covered in electrical tape. Just to put this into perspective- this is a 10 min diagnosis. 10 mins to 3 hrs to fix. I've got about 1/2 that time already trying to help here. 4 threads won't help you.
Ok, try this: disconnect the wire to the coil from the ballast resistor, and reconnect it to the other end of the resistor (basically using that terminal as a splice point and bypassing the resistor). If the problem goes away, it's the resistor. If it doesn't, you have a wiring problem upstream from the resistor or the wire from the resistor to the coil is bad. The 'incoming' wire on the resistor should go directly to the ignition switch, but I don't know Buick wiring so that may not be the case. The fact that a direct-from-the-battery 'jumper' eliminates the problem means you have an issue in the coil feed voltage, although it's possible it's a bad coil. Keep in mind that 'static' tests with a meter may or may not show up a bad connection as you can have connections that read 'good' when checking but will go 'bad' under actual load.
Sorry about posting so many threads.I just didn't want it to get too long. Didnt mean to piss any one off. I will try everything you all suggested over the holidays. Merry Christmas to you all. Bruce.
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