At the risk of being "non-traditional", I'm debating converting the dual point distributor in the '52 276 DeSoto I have in my roadster. It's got the original dual point dizzy in it now, which is the reason I was able to buy the partially restored wagon it was in. The owner was unable to get the thing to run, finally gave up and we bought the car. The issue turned out to be he'd (evidently) not set the dual points up correctly, one set never opened. I roughly re-set them when I got the car unloaded off the trailer with a business card (lacking feeler gauges), and it fired right up. To be honest I haven't fired the engine in the roadster ch***is yet. I may be over-thinking, but I'm wondering if a breaker-less conversion plate can be used in this distributor. One like Pertronix, Fast, or any of the readily available ones available as conversion kit. I don't want to get involved in a distributor swap with this little engine, I'd just like to remove the breaker plate and use an electronic one its place. (I did search here and found a couple threads involving using a 318 dizzy and an adaptor, which I don't want to do). Does anyone have any real world experience with this, or should I **** it up and learn to adjust this dual point system and call it good? I have vivid memories of seeing my Uncle Andy leaning over the hood of his old DeSoto at the curb adjusting the points in his car. While it was colorful and I learned lots of interesting new vocabulary, I don't want to be that guy...
You can get a replacement intermediate shaft from Hot Heads,,,,,and a normal small block Mopar distributor will fit perfectly. To be honest,,,,,,points are not really difficult,,,,,,but I understand if you don’t really like them . But,,,,as I said,,,,,,you can replace the shaft and go with a normal modern distributor just fine . Tommy
I’m looking at the same thing in the 330 I have in my 41 pickup. I have two choices, a stock distributor that needs a good cleaning, or a Mallory DP flat top. I’m leaning toward the Mallory as I ran one for 30 years in my old roadster. Pretty much set it and forget it. @Bandit Billy runs a drop in electronic replacement in his 330. Looking forward to the responses to your question.
I was looking at the Hot Heads site (I've bought quite a bit of stuff from them for this build already) and saw the distributors and shaft. What's involved with that? Is that "intermediate shaft" an extension on the newer distributor for the drive, or does it involve machine work? Apologies for not know anything about this... (edit) I'm pretty confident I can get the thing to run as-is, but I'm at an age where constant fiddling with something is not as appealing to me as it once was. Having gotten it to run right off the trailer with nothing more than somebodies business card from my wallet made me feel good, I just want to avoid that...
I put a pertronix in a customers 276 Desoto and took the dual points out bout 10 years ago.cant get to the dist easily to adjust points and I don't think he ever would
I set the dual points on my 40 when I put the caddy engine in it 12 years ago and have not had to re adjust them since.... It is pretty simple really. I replace the points on my impala only because they had 30,000 miles on them. they looked pretty good yet when I pulled em out... Maybe I am different than everyone else. I like points
No,,,,,it’s very simple really . It is simply a longer replacement shaft for the intermediate shaft . It fits up higher in the gear,,,,,to engage the tang on the distributor . It already has the hole for the pin,,,,,you just drive out your old pin,,,,,insert the new shaft,,,,,drive the new pin back in ,,,,,easy . Tommy
Sorry,,,I didn’t capture a pic of the new pin,,,it was hidden behind the white label on the package . And I have a Mallory dual point I’m planning on using with it . I got it off the bay for not much money . But,,,if you choose,,,,,any small Mopar distributor will fit fine . Tommy
Do they require non-solid core wires? This engine has all new wires, along with the points, condenser, cap, rotor etc, and I guess if it's a "one thing leads to another" kind of deal, I may be better off just digging out my dwell meter and timing light and running the dual points set up...
Buy a dwell meter and set the points independently per the instructions. Drive. I really like "flattop" Mallory's and run them on everything I can find one for. I have never had a bit of trouble. And they make it look like a real Hot Rod.
The last three rods I built have been Mopar powered and I used Mopar electronic ignition. They invented electronics ignition and it has been trouble free for me for years. Summit sells a very good Mopar distributor and control module. Bought a Pertronix once and it didn't work, I'll sell you that one cheap
LOL, I have one, I just need to dig it out and remember how to use it! I haven't had ANY car with points for 20 years!
If I were you I would freshen up the stock dual point. Like Moriarty said, in a hot rod it shouldn’t need attention for a long time. If there’s a drawback these days it’s probably the quality of the condensers. Your engine is pretty old timey looking, I’d stick with the old distributor or an old Mallory.
Re : Condensers. I have been selling these "Trash Cans" for Mallory's and other Hi-perf points ignition for the last 6 years with no complaints. $50 to Alliance members or $60 for others, plus $10 shipping.
Personally I'd run the dual points in my car but for the customer that owns the car he has no clue and he's a hundred miles away from me that's why I put a pertronix in for him and that's what he wanted.it used regular wires
Why yes, yes I do. It is a plug n play MSD form Hot heads with a black cap. the thing is crammed in the back of the engine against the firewall where no one can see it on my PU. The last thing I wanted to do was to lie across the fenders I have been blocking for a year trying to set my points. I respect the tradition of a breaker set ignition but I am essentially lazy and my back hurts just thinking about crawling back there. This is a pic sans hood, it will only get worse once it is on. I'll just tell people it has a dual point. Lying is a lot easier
I'm just wondering, how many miles go with that "long time". Points are normally good for 10 to 15 K at most. That's fine for the guys who only drive a car a couple thousand miles a year if that but I'd bet dollars to donuts that Brian will rack up better than 10K on that roadster the first season he has it on the road and maybe more than that. I'll run points in the flathead when it goes in something because the distributor is easy to reach and most likely it won't be making serious long cross country trips. If I don't sell the 330 Desoto at the Tri Cities Swap meet on the 7th it may eventually go in something where I would as Billy put it, want something that I didn't have to crawl over the engine to work on on an all too often basis.
This is largely the way I feel. I have nothing against points per se and obviously have no problem with people that choose to run them. I can remember when I first got into this stuff having points in my daily driven 57 Bel Air and what a PITA it was to start when the car would sit outside in the winter and I would go to drive to school in the morning. Then when I got my 57 Ford, the 272 I had in that would need the points filed on occasion. When I dumped the Mopar in it, the same "orange box" ignition I put on it in 2004 is the same one on it now, and it still fires up on the first roll regardless of weather. The biggest advantage I see with the electronic ignition is being able to put a full 12V to it, instead of having to step the voltage down with a ballast resistor. It's a much hotter spark and is a night and day difference in cold starting. Nothing I have revs high enough to float points but if you do that's a consideration too. I also often hear people say points will always get you home and the electronic modules go bad all at once. That's largely true, but practically speaking, for most local driving, if my car dies on the side of the road, I'm going to either call AAA or my wife for a tow home and deal with it there. If I'm out on a trip and it breaks, I'm going to need to either swap points or the ignitor in the field, which is not substantially different, other than the fact that I better have a set of new points on me, because a lot of parts stores won't stock that obsolete stuff. But any Advance, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc., will have a regular *** Pertronix on the shelf. FWIW, I don't buy the reliability argument. Basically every car built in the last 40 years has had electronic ignition, and cars routinely turn 100K+ miles with no maintenance to the ignition system whatsoever. So while the points may be able to be filed to get you home, there is something to be said for the system just working and not needing to be messed with in the first place.
Are you already running with an alternator and an electronic voltage regulator? Electronic ignition systems can be a little fussy about having a stable and "clean" power supply.
Bryan, go electronic and never look back!! I had the ORIGINAL distributor for the engine in my avatar modified for HEI. GM module mounted in the engine compartment. I carry a spare just in case. NEVER a problem. The alternative fuel system takes care of spark advance as well. Color ME happy. Good luck. Ben
Hot Heads shaft to run Mopar small block electronic distributer with a MSD 6AL box....Have run this for years and no issues....
57 Joe , You’re right,,,,,the good Mopar stuff is almost unbeatable. I’m willing to bet that most all OEM units are top quality and rarely fail . It’s the aftermarket stuff you have to keep a close eye on ,,,,,made very well,,,but,,,,not on the order of factory durability . Myself,,,,I’m gonna keep my points stuff in mind for now . As the old age and dotage creep up on me,,,,,,then I will consider electronic more closely . I guess it all depends on the application,,,,,,more old hot rod stuff seems like the points application. I certainly understand when it is in an area that is very difficult to reach and service . I can’t blame anyone a bit . Tommy
You could always just run it on one set of points to trigger what ever you wanted to use to trigger the coil.
I've been installing Chrysler electronic ignition in every Mopar I've had since they came out in 1973, up until the efi came along. I worked as a mechanic for years and installed a lot of sets of points. Points last between 10,000 miles and 12,000 miles, very seldom more. The rubbing blocks wear off and the contact surfaces become pitted causing the dwell and the timing to change. Time doesn't seem to make much difference with points, as long as the key is not left on without the motor running. When I first started installing the electronic ignitions, I carried an extra resistor and an extra control box for several years, but never put either on anything that belonged to me (over a hundred cars & trucks and many thousands of miles). I've installed a few on my extra parts on other peoples cars to get them going, but never my own. I quit carrying the extra parts because I grew tired of buying parts for other people. Gene
I have the Mopar electronic in my 330. Only issues I’ve had with that is finding a good ECU. The old orange boxes are hard to come by. I found that NAPA sells the Standard products. So far the blue box works however I keep a couple of spares in the truck. I also have a Petronics laying on the shelf should I chose to change over.
It’s been 4 years since I posted on this thread and the MSD in the 330 never required my attention. Like Forest Gump said “it’s one less thing”.
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