let me get an answer on this kind of wiring for this particular distrubtor. I know I have to use a coil. 1st question do both wires conect to the coil? red to (+) and black to (-)? Or, is it wired red to (+) and black to ground? 2nd question. Does the keyed ignition wire go to the (+) or the (-) side of the coil.
About a month ago, I installed a Pertronix distributor with Ignitor II and a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil on a Ford 302. Ran the red wire from the dizzy to the (+) side of coil. Ran the black wire from the dizzy to the (-) side of coil. Ran the keyed ign wire to the positive side of coil. All is good.
You will need some kind of ignition module. I recommend the Ford thick film module from the 90s. If you go junkyard shopping, Aerostar vans, Probes, Tbirds and Cougars often have them on a finned aluminum heat sink beside the radiator, these are better than the ones on the distributor. Get the matching coil and wiring harness while you are at it. Or, you could buy an MSD ignition if you prefer the aftermarket thing over the stock look. In either case wire them up according to the maker's instructions. If you don't have a Ford manual or MSD instruction sheet you can look them up on the net.
I have the same dist. Seems to work good. Black wire. - side of coil. Red wire. + side of coil + side of coil to 12v ignition sw.
I did not. The info I gave you was from the wiring diagram included with the dist. I have it in a sbc that I have run but haven't gotten to the point of tuning/driving it yet. I was thinking it would be a drop in and go type of thing for me since my motor is stock. I'm not sure if the vac canister is adjustable. I'm sure there are some threads that cover spring setup on here somewhere.
Just curious, seen a few of that style, whats been somebody's long term experience with this style distributor?
Yea I had that same thought about how long it will last but for $50. a complete self contained dizzy. I'll report back in a year on that. I'm actually more worried about replacement parts, cap, rotor and such.I tend to break em more than wear them out!
I installed it and the o-ring is too small I am going to have to find a larger one if I can - because the distributor is wobling back and forth at the bottom. I replaced the oil shaft thinking it was bent or worn. No way to check the wear on the gear drive in the oil pump without a bunch of work. By the way...The distributor fired on the first try, 180 off, kaboom. Next try it runs but, the wires I had were older and I had cross fire. New wires installled. I might move up to a stronger coil. Now I have 14 ( I had 22 ) inches of vacumm and the motor does not rev up ( it was purring ). I suspect the power valve is flooding the cylinders because my plugs are wet. Can a back fire blow out this valve. I do not have a vacuum leak I checked.
Re verify your plug wires are routed correctly, the adjust the timing. Vacuum should return to normal
whoa. That makes sense now that you write it out M.O.N. After tonights basball game I will bench the carb and go through my valves. Oh and my plug wires are perfect. Timing is spot on.
Bottom Line. The distributor was defective. It was returned to vendor. I opted ato use a PerTronix Ignitor for Ford 8 Cylinder. Runs beter than ever. Thank you everyone for the input. Midnightoilgarage was right on the money. It did not work. Cheaper parts are not good parts. Tried to save a few bucks spent 3 times the cost of one pertronix ignitor.
i thought holley changed the p.v. so that it didnt blow out with a back fire.i know i took out a few of them back in the day but ive not had to change one in awhile.or was i just lucky? lol
You can replace the module with a GM HEI unit. Galaxy (they are at the left coast swap meets) can help you with the correct way to do it (they do have a web site also).
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