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Technical Electronic ignition

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HOTRODPRIMER, Jun 29, 2014.

  1. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    no problem chopped .
     
  2. Fuzzy Knight
    Joined: Jun 8, 2009
    Posts: 11,806

    Fuzzy Knight
    Member
    from Santee, Ca

    Danny I have no experience with HEIs. But I do have experience with Pertronixs. Very reliable and easy to use. I have one in my Roadster and one in my Falcon. Both are inside Mallory dual point dizzys. What you are describing is Thermal breakdown. A new module should cure it.
    Good Luck
     
  3. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,692

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    David,like you I don't know anything about these things ether.

    This is what I have for better or worse. HRP

    001.JPG 007.JPG 006.JPG

    Is this what you guys are talking about?.
     
  4. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,509

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    You can take the module to the parts store and have it tested.
     
  5. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,692

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's what I need to hear!,,thanks man. HRP
     
  6. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,509

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Have them test it several time it will heat it up if it fails when it gets hot.
     
  7. i.rant
    Joined: Nov 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,770

    i.rant
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you need to replace it pays to get the real thing from GM, cheap ones are garbage.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,774

    squirrel
    Member

    Did you wipe the white grease off the bottom of it? should be a heavy coating there. That's really all you need to worry about as far as installation...oh, make sure the wires are plugged on firmly.


    I don't have any recommendations for brands, I can't even recommend GM stuff any more, they don't make it like they used to. All I can suggest is that you keep a spare module with you, if only to satisfy Mr. Murphy (if you have a spare, you won't need it)
     
  9. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,692

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah Jim,I wiped of the heavy coating of white grease off

    Murphy has been tailing me lately so I know what you mean! HRP
     
  10. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    Hopefully a new module gets you back on the road.
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2014
  11. 55 dude
    Joined: Jun 19, 2006
    Posts: 9,357

    55 dude
    Member

    those modules can fail ANYTIME! man if yours is sputtering consider yourself lucky because it's saying "CHANGE ME" or your gonna change me along the road and it will be 100 degrees or raining!i alway carry a spare and tools to swap it out.
     
  12. 57countrysedan
    Joined: Oct 28, 2012
    Posts: 370

    57countrysedan
    Member
    from NY

    Id start at the basics before throwing parts. If its missing on idle pull wires and check for a change. If no change thats the cylinder. Then u can swap a plug cylinder to cylinder and see if it follow or even try moving wires around. Thats just how id do it. Good luck!


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  13. mikhett
    Joined: Jan 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,582

    mikhett
    Member
    from jackson nj

    You can troubleshoot with canned air.turn it upside down and it sprays a ice cold spray.good for checking thermal problems in electronic ignitions.Also Heat sink compound ios what u need on the underside of the module.you can get it at radio shack!
     
  14. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    only good ones I have run into anymore are accel or Blue standard , and the accel ones are only better for the High rpm ( over 4500) as it doesn't retard like the OEm ones do
     
  15. Last edited: Jun 30, 2014
  16. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,987

    brokenspoke
    Member

    I'm thinking pick up coil is going bad.....
     
  17. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,692

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Back to square one....

    The module check out OK but I put a new one in anyway,I also put in a new rotor*****on,the wires are not crossed and all the plugs are good.

    The distributor is tight..I fired the car up and it's still spitting and sputtering and cuts off. HRP
     
  18. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    check the cap for carbon tracking ( hard to do with a black cap that s why I like the blue or tan ones ) as if there is any of the red dust ( ozoned metal) it will make carbon tracks easily in the unit also try not to use a aluminum post cap as the aluminum over times develops a oxide on the terminals and can cause cross firing issues or missing from the burned off bits . the brass term caps will last 4x as long too .
     
    Heavy Flat Head likes this.
  19. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,774

    squirrel
    Member

    Might check the voltage at the distributor B terminal, make sure it's getting full battery voltage when it's running bad. Someone mentioned the pickup coil possibly getting flaky, too.

    And we all know that 95% of carb problems are caused by the ignition...but it works the other way, too
     
  20. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,692

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sorry about that ,I omitted that I also have a new cap. HRP
     
  21. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,692

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well,the coil pack is the only thing that I haven't changed. HRP
     
  22. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    a old 70's chilton manual has the ohm specs in it and the wire colors do mean something ( yellow or white) it has to do with magnatism and the way its wound , but chevy is 95% red and white wires .
     
  23. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    Fuel system and carb ok? Valve rocker clearances ok? Is it possible that you lunched a cam lobe? Any audible evidence of a collapsed lifter?
     
  24. Commish
    Joined: Jan 9, 2010
    Posts: 379

    Commish
    Member
    from NW Ok

    It may have been mentioned, but go over the wires and plugs that plug on to the pickup coil and module. Had one coming of one end of a module that was broke inside the insulation, intermittent miss. Like to never found it.
     
  25. ago
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,198

    ago
    Member
    from pgh. pa.

    Heat paste can be bought at Radio Shack.

    Ago
     
  26. GMC BUBBA
    Joined: Jun 15, 2006
    Posts: 3,420

    GMC BUBBA
    Member Emeritus

    GM ( Delco) no longer makes a good one either !! All are off shore units ...
     
  27. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 3,285

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    HRP, have you put a timing light on it to see if it is missing sparks? that is quick and easy! I would also bet on the pickup coil being the problem. Gary
     
  28. bonzo-1
    Joined: Oct 13, 2010
    Posts: 342

    bonzo-1
    Member

    I have had a weak coil that would let the motor idle but would then break up under load and rpm.
     
  29. harpo1313
    Joined: Jan 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,589

    harpo1313
    Member
    from wareham,ma

    could also check your engine ground.
     
  30. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    Not trying to insult you but this seems like a perfect time to get rid of that ugly thing.:D I bet GMC Bubba can build you a nice electronic window points dist. Modern ign. and a pretty case. Your dist. is ugly! there I said it sorry.:p
     

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