Electroysis Rust Removal

Yike! Those are carbons are a little expensive! Mine are 3/4 OD by 8 inches long and cost less than a buck apiece. I've only used one and done several parts that will fit in a 2 gallon bucket, and the carbon is about 25% depleted. So the cost of consumables is not too bad, but at more than $10 each it would start to get a little pricier.

You should look in the phone book and call around locally. Probably not worth adding shipping cost to expensive mail order carbons. You also might check McMaster Carr and see if they have a better price.

 

Is the electric method better than the liquid de-ruster stuff you buy at auto paint stores? I use that and the next day I have to wire brush off black greasy gunk, but it seems to convert the rust well, although it does stink.

 

The carbon rods may be available through a print shop/silk screen equipment supplier, the burn tables some still use, use carbon rods to produce a very bright light...

Not to hijack, but I have a couple E-T composite wheels (aluminum cebnter, steel rim) and I want to de-rust the rim... I've set up and used a 30 gallon plastic tub and tried electrolysis before, but not with 2 different types of metals... if my anode is steel, will it do anything to the aluminum?

 

I love Electroysis! I've had a lot of fun with it on old tractor parts. If you go to a Classic Tractor fourm theres tones of Ideas and setups there.
http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi

 

Well I made a small 5 gal tank, and put my door hinges in. There were almost rust free, but in the cup of the hinge they were nasty. Not bad for 80 yrs old, but not good enough to paint. Will leave them in over night. Ice man

 

So... you say that the flash-rusting is cut down with carbon rods? That's interesting.
I know that using carbon is better than some metals when you are trying to create hydrogen, since it is enert. It creates a cleaner result (from what I read).
Do you feel that the advantage of less flash rusting outweighs the cost of finding and buying carbon rods? Are they not easier to break, too? I'm curious and might try this.

I've used the liquid rust removers (Evapo-rust, which is like Safest Rust Remover) and have been very happy with the results. Costs more than electrolysis but doesn't suffer from the line-of-sight problem.
It doesn't bother other types of metals, plastics, rubber, etc. either so maybe this is a good method to use on those wheels.

From other sources:
"Light" metals such as aluminum, white metal or other alloys break down much quicker than steel, cast iron or brass. and are not recommend for this process. A smooth aluminum surface that has light surface corrosion can still be cleaned with electrolysis, but only immerse the material for short periods (15 minutes) and clean with a soft brush. Longer periods will discolour, badly pit or even completely dissolve aluminum etc.

I miss-read your post Ice Man.... thought you had tried it. Good luck.

 

I tried it. Results here: www.modeltengine.com/itselectric.htm

 

Pretty neat, huh?
Glad you had good results.

 

Will electrolysis remove other contaminants other than rust? I have a set of manifolds with ceramic coating that is pretty shot. I've tried blasting it with Black Magic, and plain sand but it's pretty stubborn and blasting it is not doing the trick.

 

Good question. I have my doubts if it will lift anything that tough.

From what I understand (which is from reading and doing... I'm not a scientific-type) the process as we know it (properly: reverse-electrolysis) is meant to only remove iron-oxide.
However, it will release paint from the metal and even chrome if there is a lifting edge to the chrome so I'd say give it a try.
Should be no harm to try.
Good luck and let us know.

 

you are guessing correct....

 

Well, it's worth a shot. Got it in the tub and am letting it sit overnight, hope that's long enough. We'll see.

 

First time I've tried this and I am impressed with the results. While it did not remove the ceramic coating, and least it softened the bond enough to blast it off. It is a dandy on rust though.

 

DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL FOR THE ANODES!!!! They leave behind hexavalent chromium (or something kinda spelled like that) in the bath VERY bad for the environment AND YOU!!!

 

Don't forget about Hydrogen Embriddlement (you might wanna check the spelling on that, lol). This can be very dangerous if done on any suspension parts, axles, spindles, etc...

 

I'm doing an entire Model A truck cab right now. I cut it down into sections so that the cowl, doors and back of the cab will all fit in my tank. Works great! After I soak the pieces for 2-3 days I power wash them real good and they're ready to weld up or prep for paint. That's the drivers door after it's been in 24 hours in the pic.

 

Excelllent!
Glad you had some result.

4t64rd is SOOooo right. Stainless... bad, bad, bad.

reldridgejr1969 ... cool stuff.

Hydrogen embrittlement can be an issue but is easily dealt with, in my limited experience.

 

I'm glad that everyone got some use out of this. I know I have really enjoyed it, as it saves so much time. I still run the part thru the blast cabinet after I take it out of the tank, but that is more for ruffing up the metal to get the primer to stick better.

I just wished I had a bigger tank. I have an 5 or 8cf deep freeze that does not work, and thinking about setting it up for bigger parts. but that will be for the next car, or motor I build.

Ronnie

 

I have used this method and it works well. You can go to a pool supply or Walley World and buy Calcium Carbonate. It is called PH+ and is used to increase the ph in pools and spas. Super cheap and easier to find than the wash soda

 

Rust never sleeps......................Rich

 

Thoughts on using a computer power supply (Laptop) instead of a battery charger?

Reason: I have a few of them around and cant use them for anything else.

Output 19.5 V 7 amps.

 

I've used them for this with various levels of success.
They do put out a lot of juice but will burn out doing this if you aren't careful.
Try to adjust the current draw so it's not too high (by using less electrolyte powder or fewer pieces of sacrificial steel or move it further away from the good steel) and you will be happier with the lifespan of the power supply.
Laptop power supplies are interesting units. Most batteries packs they charge have electronics in the pack which control charging load and shut down the juice when needed.
Without that circuitry the power supply can run wild... which causes lots and lots of heat.
Pop the cover of the power supply and it will last longer too.
Joe

 

Got my brother to do that.

 

Anything that puts out DC will work. A big battery for example.

I've fooled around with this and was worried about burning out an expensive charger, so made a very simple circuit I found on;

http://www.alpharubicon.com/elect/3dollarbattggn.htm

He made it to recharge and desulfate batteries. Looks impossible but it works.



I improved it by using a capacitor instead of a bulb, and using a bridge rectifier.



And made several sizes. The bigger the cap the faster it works, and the hotter the water gets. The one pictured gets the water too hot to keep a hand in.

 

I don't think I'd want to be anywhere close to hot water with that big capacitor near by

 

Well, you unplug it first. But I've forgotten a few times. It's just a strong tingle. After a few times you don't forget anymore.

Or you begin to like it.