Technical Embarrassing gasoline smell

In the interest of showing my ignorance, do any F-1 trucks have the fuel tank mounted behind the seat in the back of the cab?

 

cast iron Fenton headers, turbo tubes (effectively dual chamber gl*** packs), dumps under the truck bed because I moved the gas tank to the rear frame.

 

That could be your problem right there

 

Since you relocated the gas tank, and still have the odor I think that indicates probable issues with too rich a fuel mixture.

 

To be clear the truck has about 400 miles on it and the motor only has about 30 run hours on it. I replaced the plugs just out 300 miles ago. replacing the plugs yet again, speaks to a bigger issue, which is why I'm asking. replacing the plugs seems to be masking the issue. hope that helps.
The truck has SOME issue starting but it's not like it dies and has to be restart in traffic and I'm sweating bullets on the two lane road to my house.
once start the truck runs fine however recently I've had to leave it choked to get it to idle well, (yes, rich situation).
I would like to get it to idle at 750rpm but it just won't. it's doing fine at 850 but then starts lugging if I push the choke in...everyone I read (while lurking) says a Flathead ought to idle fine at 600rpm. 600 rpm is a dream idle to me.
will my cam never allow that, i couldn't find it on the Isky site last night, but it's what the old-er timers referred to as a 1/2 race cam. I'm trying to find the lift, dwell and duration, though. it's not a lumpy cam I know that much. I have run blower cams on smog heads and such, so I'm not a motorhead but also not a total noob.
not saying it's not the plugs, but if the plugs only have 400 miles on them, then there's bigger issue than replacing the plugs and doing an oil change. with all due respect.
Plus my brother is a Master Mechanic and has run me over all most of the traps mentioned here. Issue is he's never done anything with a flathead.
Respectfully, I'm not taking anyone to task here, nor lashing out.
I don't think I have a plug foul situation is all. carbs, burn, or timing...I would like to try a little hotter (ik) plug but not sure if that would mask the situation either.
I will do these things but I feel like in 500 miles I'll be right back where I started. Hence my lurking Mr. Stogy, :>D lol.
Stogy fyi...I"m not doggin you for your lurking remark. you nailed it. fyi.

 

please explain.

 

yes, they do but since my great uncle had a chevy with the tank in the cab I swore i'd never have one in the cab. so I moved it to the rear frame where the spare tire used to be located.

 

BTW...thanks to everyone who spent a little time in their day to comment and reply. I might not receive it as best I could, but don't think I'm not listening.

 

okay...lol. I think I'm going to go back to a Champion 844-1 just to have a baseline. I am running NGK Champion H10 cross-refs just now.
I've always been an ABC guy but I am going to call a truce this time.
If anyone has another suggestion to perhaps go to a colder or hotter plug, could you leave the callout please?

 

well, when it's running it's the exhaust that's troubling. when I park it the gas seems to be moving back to the tank.
to answer you...exhaust smell, the raw gas, I feel like I know that answer.
Thanks SuperVillain!!!

 

thank you EK. good point.

 

Hello,

One of the problems our friends had with their "gas smell" were the fuel lines. So, we checked all of the lines and connections. Just because you don't see a drip, it does not mean you don't have a fuel leak. Fuel dries and usually leaves some kind of residue. But, sometimes it does not, still drips, and dries up. Check the rubber lines for cracks and old age. Also, check the connections to the steel line and while you are at it, if possible, check the steel line that runs to the rubber hose to the tank.

Jnaki

We changed the rubber hoses with new hoses and secured them with new screw clamps. The smell went away. Somehow the very slow leak permeated the fittings between one of the rubber hoses and the metal one. Once the new hoses and clamps were put on, the smell went away. We also changed the old gas cap with a new one that had a better seal.
If these are on the hoses for some reason, they could be loose, although they look tight. The screw in adjustable ones with groove tracks are a lot better in getting something tight. YRMV

 

To say another way, is it 'sweet' or 'sour' smelling?
Sweet means raw, sour half burnt

 

I only have an electric fuel pump. thanks Moriarity.
so filling the bowl is more of a time patience thing.

 

sour

 

Thank you Jnaki. the fuel lines were new 2 years ago. and really didn't move any fuel for about a year of that while I rebuilt the transmission and rear brakes.
however, I will look at them. Though it's more of a tinge of "gas in the exhaust" smell that's concerning.
thank you.

 

my El Camino used to do that. I'm smiling at the response.
and I miss Elsie.
I hadn't thought to try this with the truck. I will do this also.

 

Electric fuel pump? Do you have a regulator or fuel pressure gauge on there? Do you smell gas in your oil?

 

I am running a smallblock with an X1 with 6 x 2s...with only center 2 94's operational...

The thing is regardless of engine much of this stuff relates to them all...

You'll nail it...

Have you done a nice highway run to get that exhaust heated up...maybe not as it sounds like a breakin is still happening...

 

I think my lines are fuel injection gas lines and I think what the others are saying it has to be ethanol rated or impervious to...

I'll verify that when I get home...Napa was my source...

 

You did say you have an electronic ignition? Is the coil, plugs and plug gaps correct for the ignition? I have a Mini HEI Chevy distributor in my 52 HardTop with a 54 235 engine. The complete package had to be correct correct for the engine to run. I have a high output Ford coil. I have extended tip plugs with a wider gap that were needed for the hotter spark, and I use AC Delco plugs and the HEI is a great upgrade for my engine. Now, I'm no expert either, but, is it possible your plugs are gapped too tight for the electronic ignition and you aren't burning all the fuel? You only smell it when it is running? Just throwing this out there.

 

Is your Truck Hamb Friendly...can we see the patient...


Maybe the engine bay and carbs close up...there are a shiload of different 94s too...is there a chance a hole could be blocked by a gasket...for a different model 94?

I am just mentioning basics and it's usually simple stuff...

The vacuum gauge or uni-syn are looked by many as the most reliable way to set these up...I have a uni-syn but still haven't used it...

I ran for years with vacuum advance hooked to a hole drilled in the manifold hence un-ported...I was told to plug the line and did but found it better with it on...who knows that line on may be pulling my timing into a better place...okay back to stink...

 

so far, tips I will do:
1) check that my pressure regulator is set to 1.5psi
2) change the plugs (Champion 844-1); check the tips
a) set the gap to 36
3) oil change
4) a skooch more advance; 24 sounds aggressive since the idle is good but 15 doesn't feel like enough
5) check the fuel lines from the tank to the carb
6) order and had some carb spacers
7) based on 2) check the integrity of the plug wires
8) get an A/F gauge and install it
9) get a Vacuum gauge and install it

For 2) does anyone feel like they have a 'better idea' for the gap on the plugs. I'm running 28 on the gap. but that's the stock gap, with the larger cam and bigger bore, should I change it and what are your thoughts on narrower or wider?

 

So then it is not the tank placement.
I have no credence to talk about fine tuning.
Either I lucky or get help. One thing I am sure of,,,,

The three 94s sitting in my garage will be traded for 97s when my project gets there.
If not that then adapt a Rochester 2GC for comfort and convenience.
( That's right you know )

 

It's been years since I've changed my plugs, but, I believe they might be .045 for the the electronic ignition. The plugs are extended tip for that reason.

 

Yes, the coil, plugs and gap are appropriate for the flathead.

ummm...to me though the Pertronix is a/an:
- magnet pickup one mounts on the spinner shaft,
- electronic part that then fires upon sensing the contact that then allows the spark plug to fire.
I can say that I love it. the truck hadn't run better up to the point when I replaced it. before it was a dual point Mallory. I was advised by two Flathead icons to do this.
But I always wondered some on the stock gap versus the e-ignition
So forgive my ignorance, I'm running 28, do you think going up by 2s would be a plan?
I'm sorry if my responses might be obtuse and too wordy.
52HardTop, I'm adding this my list, thank you.

 

lol...we should trade Tom. I have 3 97s that I truly do not plan on using. I bought them on a tri-Offy intake a few years back. If you have three 94s...I would certainly provide pics.