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1952-59 Ford emergency flasherhow hard

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by BeerMoney, May 25, 2022.

  1. BeerMoney
    Joined: Jul 15, 2010
    Posts: 216

    BeerMoney
    Member

    how hard is it to install emergency flasher on my 55 ford customline with 12 volt systems
     
  2. orangedog
    Joined: Jun 9, 2020
    Posts: 192

    orangedog
    Member

    Not to hard. I added a toggle switch to activate the flashers when I rewire my car.
     
  3. abe lugo
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 3,367

    abe lugo
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you have original wiring or original style wiring check out some of the old flarestat or other vintage hazard kits. The basically connect inline with existing wires and have a nice toggle switch. About 40.00 of you watch them on eBay.

    if you have a new wiring system just check for a schematic and run a toggle.
     
  4. Dos Cincos
    Joined: May 13, 2011
    Posts: 946

    Dos Cincos
    Member

    Is it wired with an aftermarket kit? My aftermarket kit had a circuit in place for hazards. I used a bronco emergency switch and the bezel from the same bronco for mine only because I wanted the pull switch like the lights and wanted it mounted in the dash (so needed a bezel). Toggle switches work as well and could be mounted under the dash.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2022
  5. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,669

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

  6. Bleach
    Joined: Apr 19, 2011
    Posts: 31,887

    Bleach
    Member

    I'm following this thread as I'd like to add 4 way flashers to my '56. I've seen a few on ebay but only the pricey ones have any instructions and none had a good enough photo of the instructions. I'd had to cut any of my original wiring under the dash. It still all looks like new. Was it possible to just plug in a harness to headlight switch?
     
  7. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,669

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

  8. abe lugo
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 3,367

    abe lugo
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Posting photos. Let’s see if this works.
    I happen to have a few of these but have not had a chance to install them. I have enough cars for them so NFS.
    E59B549C-FE83-4171-9494-B64515355B3D.jpeg 36F67419-01BE-49F4-8EA6-6C12F05654AD.jpeg 32484641-0A21-4EC8-9DBC-89FD31BBB43E.jpeg D99D011B-D1C5-4693-94F5-C5F4960DFD59.jpeg AE04EB58-876A-4614-AA9D-FB10CFB3493E.jpeg D963DEB3-2600-4DC2-91E6-A0AF1FB7DF51.jpeg 11F7EE74-A3DA-46DF-846B-A568FEDA9C2E.jpeg C4AFD23B-C8B1-4E2F-84E8-B77EA6D7018B.jpeg C8C8DDC2-262F-4F35-9F56-3846D70589B3.jpeg
     
    down-the-road and Bleach like this.
  9. abe lugo
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 3,367

    abe lugo
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you follow the schematic you can see the power coming from the ammeter, which instead you can find a hot to stick it to or just go back to the batter. But maybe headlight switch?


    A splice connector would work to tap into each line
     
    down-the-road likes this.
  10. Bleach
    Joined: Apr 19, 2011
    Posts: 31,887

    Bleach
    Member

    So it looks like you need to splice into your wiring. It doesn't look like you just connect it to the headlight switch.
     
  11. abe lugo
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 3,367

    abe lugo
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I would just say you need a constant hot. Most people don’t run an ammeter.
     

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