Not only is mrhp correct on the "water only" but I have found it wise to fill the radiator a day ahead of time and "burp" the air out of the motor before igniting it. If you can "power flush" the water through the motor and radiator to remove air pockets it is best. My Olds looked like "old faithful" when I did the burn in. She survived it but what a mess. Oh, and add a bit of alcohol, not to the radiator but a couple shots of Blanton's makes the process less tense.
I went with the antifreeze mix since everything on the car was new, confidence was high that I'd have no issues. Easiest start up and cam break in I've ever done. Car started after a few tries and stayed running.
I said water only for the chance an internal jacket leak presents itself and also for the huge**** mess "old Faithful" spewed all over herself and my garage...not just once but three different belches. The white rag top was a green sticky mess and the fan blew it back to the deck lid because the hood was off. Damn car looked and smelled like a jolly rancher...I mean the hard candy not a "happy" cowboy...
Before roller cams flat tappet cams got bench run long enough to break the cam in. Then actual engine run in as it was called was up to the buyer. I have never not broken a cam in but I have changed more then my share that were not properly broken in. I mean hell who really doesn't have 20 minutes to ensure 100s if not 1000s of hours of carefree driving.
I always run water only on a first start up as IF there is a leak you don't get coolant/antifreeze damaging your paint. JW
Very interesting thread, and a lot of good advice. By now you should have enough information to get you through. I do however think that a conversation on the oil is almost always a good thing. In todays world with engine oils with very reduced amounts of zinc or ZDDP additive present and some with almost none, the use of this chemical and the purpose it serves cannot be stressed enough. Zppd and zinc were reduced because this chemical destroys the packing in catalytic converters. Today all new cars have one of those so ZDDP slowly has gone missing in todays "Modern" oils. If during the break in period you use regular modern oil and just a ZDDP additive you may not have accomplished anything. The ZDDP additive pack that was in the past and still is today in the few oils that still contain it, is introduced in a very small temperature window during the processing of the oil. if you just dump a bottle of zinc additive into the crankcase with your oil it never will disperse and become a part of the oil itself. You need at minimum 1400 PPM of zinc to for it to be effective. There are several oils today that meet that requirement. By far your best bet is find a oil that meets the requirements you need and use that.
Read all this just before initial stat up on the coupster y-block. Pre oiled, stabbed in the dist, lined up #1 and TDC, turned on the elec fuel pump to prime. Turn off pump and tighten rear clamp. Pump on, pump off, tighten front clamp. Now have pressure to carb, air cleaner sitting on carb so not to look like the TV first starts, spin starter, get back fire, burn hair of knuckles, twist dizzy, fires off, ready to run up rpms, no oil pressure on gauge. Shut it off, put everything away, installed direct reading gauge. Gone for a week, warm weather again, go through routine, fires off, got 60 lbs showing on the gauge, go to up the revs and sounds funny, then dies. Had constant popping from carb. Wondered if valve set too tight. Pull valve covers, right side looks ok, head to driver side, looks... wtf? What happened to the push rods? 5 of them down in the head. Some dumb-A duble checked the valve lash twice and forgot to tighten down every lock nut. Took of the rocker shaft-all good, pulled the push rods out, one bent. When the new ones arrive, they all get replaced. Good news is nothing appears to be damaged (my pride of course), won't know til I fire it up again, will spin engine with no fire to make sure I have good valve action on all 16. Other good news is I now know why it ran like*****. I relate this to all the home builders here since we've been given a lot of good advice. Mine is "check all your locknuts". RB
Try this simple trick : I drill a small hole in the thermostat just inside the gasket sealing area. This allows air to purge out of the block and fill completely with water ( I always use water on first start ups , less messy and costly if you have a leak to tend to.) Drilling eliminates the hot block, cool water in radiator eruptions and puking all the water out. The guys above have done their homework on the oils , and zinc ZDDP , use it ! Start out with cheap 10 w 30 , don't use synthetics until your rings have seated fully- say 2 or 3 hundred miles min. on cast rings , 500 miles min. on moly rings. That's all I can add , have fun !
A lot of great information here! I would add that you also need to double check everthing else you touched while the engine was out, transmission fluid, cooler lines, power stering fluid level etc.
I have built a lot of motors. I just start them, adjust them, leak check them and drive them. Never a problem. ( never chrome rings )
With great skill and difficulty. Good thread, lots of good tips here. The only thing I might add is try to get ONE other person who knows a little something to help, but dont do this with a bunch of onlookers. I really prefer to do this by myself, but there are times when another set of eyes/hand might help. Good Luck!
as long as you never run anything bigger than a chevy 929, you will skate by with this. Otherwise, you are headed for DEEP*****.
The Jalopy Journal
