Technical Engine from an auto into a manual car

Hey guys. I’m looking at picking up a 1960 Falcon with a 144 i6 and a 3 speed manual transmission. My question is… I found a 200 i6 out of a 66 mustang with automatic transmission. I want to keep the 3 speed. What would be needed to mate the 200 into the falcon?

 

I did something very similar 20+ years ago, but thinking everything was interchangeable between the 2
Could be wrong, heck memory isn't what it used to be.
I'm sure someone with better memory or knowledge will chime in.

 

Can’t speak as to your situation but one thing I have noticed is engines that have lived behind an auto trans don’t often survive long being put behind a manual trans, my thoughts on this is the greater rpm swing, rods or rings usually fail

 

If the same engine family, I’d think only a pilot bearing/bushing in the crank might be needed.

 

You will have to wait and see but the crank isn't necessarily going to be drilled for a pilot bearing.

Phil

 

That's the potential problem, if crank is not drilled. If drilled and just empty, easy to just get correct pilot bearing and install. I'm not a Ford expert, but I bel i6 eve the 144/170/200/250 engine family should have basic interchange. Especially the 200 for a 144.

 

I have run into that before, but not on that specific engine family. Where the crank was not drilled for a pilot bushing. Had to change the crank on an AMC V8 because of that years ago. But just the opposite, the crank from a stick didn't have a big enough hole in the crank to fit the hub from the torque converter.

 

The small Ford six can have two different size bellhousings. If they're the same, you're golden. All the cranks we've seen were drilled for the pilot, as manuals were more common back in the day.

Anything's possible, but having been there when those engines were new, I've never noticed any problems with longevity when changing from stick to auto or vice versa. Those little devils don't make enough horsepower to hurt themselves.

jack vines

 

Ford had some trans and bell housing changes around 64.
That would concern me more than anything

here’s a little info
https://www.fordforumsonline.com/threads/170-to-250-conversion.11869/

 

I wanted to add that both the engine and transmission of both vehicles are very low mileage.

 

From personal experience every used engine that had an automatic I put in a manual transmission car or anyone I changed to a manual transmission from an automatic in a car the rear main seal started leaking. For the most part an automatic trans engine crankshaft stays in the same spot but a manual moves as you step on the clutch. The main sealing area of the cranks have different wear patterns.

 

Possibly because the vehicle is now driven in a more ''spirited'' way?

 

Quite likely, I know I did Usually took out the top rings on the cylinder ridge

 

I think a 66 had both early and late bolt patterns on the back of the engine. this should help https://www.moderndriveline.com/ford-in-line-6-cylinder-bell-housing-starter-clutch-match-up-2/

 

Sorry, I can't help with this exact question. I do know Ford in the 60s and more recently tended to throw everything and the kitchen sink at engineering issues, meaning interchange is a concern, just like your post. Sure hope someone can answer your question with hard fact.

 

It should be simple.

And the 144-170-200 pilot bushing is the same.
If the starter has 3 bolts it is a 8.5" clutch [2 bolts = 9"clutch]

The flywheel should swap over [both engines are internal balanced]
8.5” clutches use a “dished” 132 Tooth flywheel
9” clutches use a “flat” 136 Tooth flywheel.

You can't mix'n'match clutch flywheel and bell between 8.5" and 9" [it is either all one or all the other]

Between 1966 to 1968 some of these 200 blocks have a dual pattern for both 8.5” and 9” style bell housings and clutches.
Here:

Ford changed bellhousing pattern for the 200 in 1968 for the larger 9" clutch flywheel only.

The lower dowels and bolts are the same on both types , so the block can be lined up drilled and tapped for 2 uppers if needed.

Or you can simply hunt down a 9" flywheel , Bell , Clutch ,and Starter [which would be cheap]

You can adapt late blocks early 8.5" bellhousing but not the other way round, because the early 144- 170 blocks cannot be drilled to the larger bellhousing

here's why

 

This is all some great information, and I really appreciate it. I knew I’d get some answers here.

 

While you are at it I would up grade to a non load o matic distributor 1968 and up . it will require the oil pump and oil pump drive because the drive went from 1/4 to 5/16 It is well worth it

 

Try Amazon