Technical Engine getting warm in traffic

Ever since I put a new aluminum radiator in the V8 location in my 55 Sunliner the gauge wants to creep up much more in traffic then when it had a non aluminum radiator once the car starts moving the gauge comes back down so its a air flow issue,I got caught in traffic yesterday coming home from a show so when I got home checked the timing and let the engine idle about as long as I was in traffic and the gauge did not move up so that gets me thinking its the automatic trans being in gear most of the time causing the heat issues. While it was in the garage idling it stayed in park,its going to get a Y block next month so everything will be back where it belongs and the fan will be centered in the radiator unlike where its now with the 351 where it sits lower and will look into a shroud.

 

Sound's like you already have it figured out.

 

You don't mention if the trans is cooled by running through the existing rad? I've often wondered if running a separate trans cooler would help lower temps with cars that run to the warm side with the built in cooler in the rad?

 

What transmission are you running?
Ford used air cooled transmissions in the Tbird in 55 not sure about the Sunliners

 

It presently has a 351-W and the gauge would always creep up some but not as fast as its doing now,I have the cooler in the radiator bypassed and just one in front of the radiator when I was trying to figure out something with the trans. The pulleys that are on this engine are those hard to find non power steering pulleys but both are about the same size and not sure if I can find a smaller water pump pulley to speed up the flow and the fan some,I have a couple different size pulleys for a Y block that I can experiment with when the 292 goes in. The 351s days are numbered and can not wait for it to be out,those engines fit but were not designed for that type of car and should have went with a FE as it would have bolted it and the fan would have been in the center of the radiator. I have a 272 and a 302 on stands sitting next to each other and the water pump is one inch higher on the 272 then the 302,I was never happy with the fit of the 351 and will never do another.

 

Maybe a copper core radiator with another row or two of tubes is the answer.

 

Why did you change radiators?

 

Not implying that this is your solution but I once bought an older vehicle that was heating up at stop lights.
It had a fan clutch on it. With the engine off, I gave it a spin and it had no resistance.
Replaced it and problem was solved.

 

To get more room for a fan I had installed six cylinder brackets on a V8 radiator and shoved it forward but since it's going back to a Y block and I also wanted a trans cooler in the radiator I picked up another radiator and put it back in the correct location. I still have the other radiator and the V8 brackets that might go back in after I find a radiator shop to put it back together.

 

I know I can get a smaller water pump pulley if it had p/s or a/c but not sure if I can get one for no p/s but I do have a extra set of those pulleys and do have a large swapmeet coming up next weekend so I am going to take the one pulley with me and see if I can find one that is smaller and see how it does before that engine gets pulled. I also do not know if its a problem with the temp sending unit as its a original.

 

I think the Yblock will run warmer than the 351. I have two 57s one with a yblock stock radiator 6 steel blade fan. 180 stat and runs about 200 or slightly over. Doesn't blow over and keeps 180 in most traffic situations.

I have another 57, 351 with a sepentine style front engine step up, so I put a fan clutch on it. Stock radiator and 180 stat. Stays about 180-190 ish most times. I had to move the radiator forward about 2" to get a fan clutch on it.
i would say a shroud might help with the yblock. Check your timing and you idle speed too.

 

The trans cooler in front of the radiator is blocking flow to the coolant radiator, as well as sucking hot air across it. When you start moving, more cool air is being forced through. JMHO but I don't like separate trans coolers in front of radiators... I prefer to remote mount them. YMMV

 

When I get the Y block in I might look into a remote auxillary cooler,I have had those coolers in front of the radiators in newer trucks and never had this problem and will just use the cooler in the radiator first and see what happens. I have read that those aluminum radiators do a better job of cooling but having my doubts as it was never this bad before it was installed.

 

I haven't heard any raving about an aluminum radiator providing superior cooling to a well maintained brass radiator.