Hi after a long Hiatus Im back onto my Model A traditional RHD hotrod. Its an Australian delivered roadster. Im now looking at mounting the flathead motor which has a S10T5 transmission on it. I bought some speedway engine mounts a while back but feel they may not be adjustable enough. I could make them work just want to make sure Im approaching this in the best way. I have boxed the rear of the frame and will box the front after the motor mounts and transmission mount are in. Im ***uming this is correct. Any advice on mounts to purchase and weld or bolt in? Any advice on S10 t5 transmission mount. I bought one a while back basically a bent tube is this OK? I ***ume i cut out the middle cross member. Also any other info like clearance and positioning greatly appreciated. Cheers Nick
OK, lets clarify this a bit so we don't start suggesting vendors from who the shipping costs to Australia would be more than the part. Where the hell are you, It can be vague as in the state or county. The reason being is as I said earlier, As I can't tell if you are in Australia and imported the body or the body came from Australia it changes things as far as buying small pieces you can easily make with simple tools . Here are some examples of the pieces that weld to the frame that various vendors are selling to give you and idea. OR Salt City speed shop sells some that bolt to the original shock bolts for the lever shocks for a big chunk of change but if you don't weld that is an option, still the image and info https://tulip-daffodil-yhgm.squarespace.com/store/p/xz5ocvtnis7t0q48x7nb7z0g0rcgw5 Is for show and tell and to give you ideas and not to say "buy this". As far as mounting the engine and trans I would figure front to rear distances and where the engine has to sit so the fan clears the radiator. Once I had that figured out I would locate the cross member and then bolt the trans to the crossmember and set a level on top of the carb or carb mount on the intake and level that and figure out where the front mounts need to be and how high they need to be. You can still dial it in with spacers/washers though.
For the rear trans mount, making it part of an extensive center X is highly recommended. One tube holding the middle of the ch***is together is inviting a lot of wiggle and your doors never fitting.
Thanks that sounds like a good idea. It would be great to have a reference or image of previous x members to use as a guide to what i need to get fabricated. Cheers Nick
A full X is better. Tons of pics of early Ford hot rod ch***is out there. Lots of the items you use to build the car will need to be figured out before you build the ch***is. What engine and trans? What type of rear suspension (springs and locating bars)? What brake and clutch pedals? You need to know what to leave room for.
You can easily source those standard engine mounts etc in Australia. Ive been buying parts from Steve @ www.earlytimesautos.com They also do transmission cross members etc He is easy to deal with and although near the Gold Coast is quick to ship. No doubt there will be a direct sellers in Sydney too.
For locating the mounts in a model A ch***is have a look at the Millworks site and videos on youtube from Rhode Alliance, IronTrap etc showing the install of them.Even though they are slightly different that will certainly get you in the ball park for a flathead. If you are using something else it wont apply as much. https://www.millworkshotrod.com/col...flathead-v8-to-model-a?variant=31351564664965 Out of interest have you got your head around how you will get it rego'd?
Just make some out of 2x4 tubing. When I did my A coupe, I bolted in the radiator, temporarily set the flatty in with the fan and set the distance from the fan to radiator. And put the mounts where they needed to be.
You could also dodge a lot of bullets by building from the rear end forward - might only need 4 mounts placed. Then again it sounds like you are set on a modern trans so no torque tube and its benefits. To me leaving old parts is asking to be swept into the street rod world of kits and catalogue items to make things work together. Some can pull it off but... Best of luck, D
I did this about 15 years ago, using a boxed stock frame. The front mounts were simple, but I like triangulation in the middle of the ch***is.