Hey Guys, Does anyone make/have a kit to put a small block Ford or big block Ford into a Fat Fender (1946) Ford? Thanks.
That is to open of a question for a Yes No answer . Be more specific as to everything you plan to use. Meaning trans for the most part. Nothing to make it as easy as a SBC but there are pieces for the most part. You just have to be able to do some basic Fab work.
Chassis Engineering used to make mounts for small block Ford for this. You’d have to check with Heidts who took over most of the Chassis Engineering product line.
I have a 460 Ford and a C6 transmission that I would like to use. I would like to stay all Ford if possible.
Being a die-hard Ford guy, I hate to admit that dropping an SBC in can be easier than using a Ford. 'Back in the day' the Chevy swap was easy, a bellhousing adaptor to connect to the original Ford trans, a set of front mounts, rams-horn exhaust manifolds and you were pretty much done. Once you leave that combo behind the degree of difficulty goes up, regardless of engine choice. You won't find any all-inclusive kit if that's what you're looking for, at best you'll find motor/trans mount kits but even those will require that you make certain decisions as to motor location to determine what other mods will be needed. Transmission choice will be a factor also because of the X-member. Bulkier late OD automatics will force the engine forward unless you mod the X-member, that can be true with any motor choice. Non-stock suspension/steering will also affect the fit. It's all doable with the right parts and some fab work but don't expect a bolt-in solution. My avatar has a 302/C4 that fits but I'm not all that happy with how it was done (swap by a PO), I would have changed a couple of things (and still may in the future). Engine length is the main obstacle. The SBF is longer than the Chevy, there are 'short' water pump options but most use serpentine belts which creates other issues (besides not being era-correct). You basically have two choices for location. Push the motor back as far as you can, that will help with radiator location/clearance but will badly restrict access to the top two bellhousing bolts unless you recess the firewall some or cut in some plugable access holes. Or push it forward enough to get the bellhousing room but now you're relocating the radiator. A center-dump shorty header design will help with exhaust fabrication. The big blocks will have all the same issues only more so. The FE is 3" longer than the Windsors/Clevelands, the 385 series 5" longer, so either of those will need considerably more work. Makes a stroker 351 look pretty attractive IMO. Expect some serious work to shoehorn that 460/C6 in. I'll also point out that the C6 is a serious mileage-killer because of its high internal drag....
Crazy Steve is Spot on. What hasn't been addressed yet is rear axle. Going C-6 means open drive and now you're doing serious fab work. Some where I have a photo of a C-6 in an early chassis, Not an easy task. In the meantime here's a look at one way of going open drive. The mandril would be replaced of course with a 8" or 9" unit. Again, no small undertaking. This hand-built system keeps you from needing lowering blocks to get a proper stance. Lowering blocks equal spring wrap and wheel hop. Something you really want to avoid when using a Big motors and big tires.
P.S. The above chassis is under Billy Bandits 40 Truck and this is a correct fit in my book for tire in wheel opening and there is No lowering block involved. Homework is well worth doing. I know you can't get there with any bolt in kit without using at least a 4" block. You won't be happy if you end up there.
Probably everything you can imagine + everything else unknown that will rear its ugly head along the way. It is a process of that you don't know what you don't know taken to a high-exponential power.
Re read Crazy Steve's post #5 and study real close the photo I posted in #6. If you know anything at all about pre 48 Ford chassis and those 2 posts don't shed some light for you then you're probably not up to the job.
The first problem you should be aware of is that Ford does not have the parts interchangeability that Chevy has. So if you buy a Ford engine of any kind, you probably want to get the transmission with it, and all of the accessory mounting brackets. I would reccomend deciding on an engine type and then buying one of the aftermarket books that discusses that engine group. Then you will know what to look for when you actually purchase an engine. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Small-B...83387491&sprefix=Ford+302+book,aps,107&sr=8-7
If you’re installing a 429-460 Ford they are either internal or external balance. That’s about all you need to know. Pretty much everything interchanges.
I have a friend that has a 428 in a '40 coupe. I'm pretty certain you'll have to provide a recess in the firewall and some rework to the floor pan and frame in the trans area.
You can swap virtually any motor into any car if you're determined enough.... ... but that doesn't mean you should... The '41-48 Fords were considerably larger than the '40s they replaced but that didn't translate into a larger engine compartment. Anything bigger than a small-block will require extensive mods to the firewall, floor and X-member in some degree or another. Drop a 385 series Ford in and if you don't recess the firewall you literally won't have any room to install the radiator. Not to mention moving all that engine weight forward won't do anything good for handling. It can be done, but make sure your eyes are wide open to the requirements. If this is your first swap, do a lot of measuring before cutting anything. There's a reason you don't see big blocks in these cars very often.
I am not sure that you would be comfortable with your feet pushed off to the left for long periods of time. That particular engine and transmission combo will require removing a whole lot of rearranging of metal to get it all in there. That will likely involve moving YOU around, too. Also, beyond having to go to an open driveline, you will also need to swap to a more stout rear axle, like a 9-inch. A 460 can nicely turn the insides of a 1946 Ford rear axle into metal powder. You would need to get good at swapping out hub keys out on the road, or have a good hookup on a tow service. Just because you have a 460 and a C6 does not mean you should use it.
They only list kits to use with independent suspension for Ford in a Ford on 46 Chassis Engineering Products Archive - Chassis Engineering (chassisengineeringinc.com) They have either dropped a lot of stuff that they made before Heidts bought them or just haven't started making the pieces yet. Probably in the mode of make what you get the most requests for and dig out the plans and jigs for another piece when you start getting more requests for it.
What do you want from the car when its finished? Since you are asking the question about fitment, you might want to look at getting a 351 Windsor type and use it to moch up your conversion. Don't believe that the engine you buy is "good to go" ......buy it as a core with all the brackets etc. After you get it to fit, use it for a core and buy a remanufactured long block from Summit/Blueprint or some reputable source. The local machine shop is often not a good choice if you are going to rely on them for everything......including assembly. Buy a "crate" type and get a warranty that means something. In the long run that usually works best when you have limited experience.
I have a 385 460 w/C6 combo and a pair of the 'trick' heads, and an Isky cam and kit. I also have a nice '54 Ford Coupe... Initial lowering of that 460 into the engine compartment was surprisingly 'tight'! My son gifted me a rotating mass for a 406 FE; I bored a 360 block, installed a heavy duty 3 speed top loader, and a 9" butt. NO 385 for me, engine OR trans. I have had '46 Fords, (4 of them) and had the 'X' member interference with most transmissions: I used '37 Cad, '37 Buick w/Olds tailshaft, and got by with those w/o serious surgery to the 'X-member tunnel' that our '33-'48 Fords suffer from. Crazy Steve isn't so crazy with his recommendations here. SBF (or SBC) remain the best to fit. Automatic transmission notwithstanding.
As mentioned, sometimes just because you have it, doesn’t make it the right choice. I like the Ford in a Ford thing. But as already been mentioned seems like a lot of work and time involved to make it happen properly. Heck, if it’s not a “weekend” thing you are planning, then by all means do it.
The Jalopy Journal
