today i go look at a 292 still in a pickup, large flange intake, 4bbl maybe, he doesnt know how to tell, all there and a good running engine, not many miles sence a rebuild, bellhousing, trans, driveshaft, maybe the rear, for $200, but the guy wants to trade some work so maybe i make a couple crossbembers and shroten a drivshaft and no money changes hands, my advive is keep as much material as you can, just tap the hole thats there for a stud, if you can go a little deeper then even better.
It must be broken worse than it looks in the picture. But if you can tap it deeper and use a stud and torque it to spec, I still think you can run it. Y blocks don't have a lot of room between the main bolts and the bearing bore. I would be careful about installing an insert.
The JB Weld idea is not a bad one, but there is a product we used when I worked at a machine shop that would patch cast iron like a JB Weld, but stronger, much stronger. We could machine it and you wouldn't know the difference between the iron and the compound. I would try this and see if you could get as much strength at that point as possible. Stud idea would work well too, but then I would still put the compound around the stud too.
As soon as I read the word "student" the red flags went up! I taught high school auto shop. If you have the flywheel on the engine, use a bar between the block and the ring gear and see if it will at least move with some mechanical advantage. If not, pull the pan and check rod caps. My guess is that someone put a cap on backwards thinking they were all alike. That will lock you faster than anything else. Likewise with a reversed main cap. If it was main cap reversed or out of position you would have found that out long before you got to the rods and pistons. I number the rod AND cap 1 through 8 before tear down. I'm guessing you will find a cap reversed. A rope rear seal will lock them up also, but there again you will find that before you ever start installing pistons. It should get progressively tighter with each piston.
First off the idiot that made the comment about Dan doesn't know what the hell he is talking about ! Just remember we were all STUDENTS at one time too ! Dan I remember that engine very well . I sent you the cam , spark plugs and a few other things along with the package . Anyway , why not give John Mummert a call and see what he tells you to do . I would take his word and go from there . There isn't a lot to drill into there at all . If you drill and re tap that means you would have to drill out the main cap and I wouldn't try that one at all . See what John tell you . You can also get a hold of (Tim) mctim64 on the HAMB and email too . He is a big Y block guy also . See what they say and go from there . As for what he is building it for , it's for a drag car the last time I heard . Retro Jim
Dan, If you end up needing another block send Greg "Lowriders Art Gallery" a PM. I got a complete "runner" from him late last year and I think he knew of a couple others stashed away.
Honestly, some cl***es for several guys here in reading comprehension would help. You guys need to get your ******* out of your cracks Lots of good advice or ideas have been thrown around here and most of the comments regarding students are pretty valid. I am teaching and have been for the last 13 years in a trade college, and as I said earlier there are good students and there are bad. And any teacher - instructor regardless of how good he may be can't see every little thing they do and cover all the bases all the time. So, if a problem like this was caused by a student, then it certainly is not a reflection on Dan. And certainly nothing to get cranked up about. Lets continue with good technical discussion and see what the solution to the problem is and save the dramatics for the sewing club meeting or the bingo hall
Sounds like some good stuff. I'm with the fill the void crew. You need that little peice in there to get the correct crush on the bearing. Machine shops of old used to have big rods they checked line bore with. If you can't find a test rod, I would machine a shaft to the bore spec. Repair the threads. Then pack it with JB Weld, or the stuff ^that^ guy is talking about. Wax the top of the cap and your shaft for a releise agent and torque it up. After it sets up torque it up and check your clearances.
Ok new guy, but for the record even a seasoned pro can make a mistake while working on his own stuff. The comment that the students needed more supervision was BS. Take some time and go look through Dans threads. What he is teaching has been 86'd in a vast majority of schools in this country. This will turn out to be a GREAT learning tool for the kids, teaching them how to dig out of an "oh ****" moment!@
"New guy" I like that one Been a while since someone referred to this crusty old gray headed guy that way. And as a well seasoned technical instructor I can tell you, students always need more supervision. You can show them something and tell them something, walk away and they do the opposite. Seasoned pro's make mistakes all the time it's called being human. I've been a tradesman all my life and still have stuff to learn and still have the "whoops" moments. I will agree totally that it's sad that technical training of any kind has vanished from our schools. Things were way different when I went to school. Fortunately up here we have a really good post secondary trades training and apprenticeship system to fill the need for skilled workers. Now let's find out how the Y block fix went.
"Now let's find out how the Y block fix went. " we are gonna tear apart our extra engine and see if that block is useable, if so we will use it... if it is I may try some of the suggestions you guys offered on the broken block just for the experience... thanks-
Feb 2010 means you ARE a new guy here. Sounds like you agree with me if you read our last couple threads. Like I said, go look at some of the other projects Dan has had his kids doing.
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