Got my engine fired yesterday so the water down the intake is a non issue. Now it wont shut off. Fires like a beaut, but so what when you have no radiator? I just wanted it to fire for a couple seconds... Turning the key has had no effect on killing it. The first two times (yeah I did it three times) I pulled the DA plugs off the alt and it killed it. the third I got cocky and pulled them with no effect then unbolted the alt feed from the battery with no effect. (why would this change???) ..and why would my car run with no alt hooked up? I shat myself. Like i said no radiator and stuffin a t-shirt in the carb didnt do anything but make me feel like a dumbass. The alt wires arc welded half their connectors to my valve covers. I'm lucky my hair isnt curly now. I pulled the HEI wire and killed it, smoke all risin from it...the outside, not the exhaust... not good. -1954 chevy with original 6v ignition switch that has "SOL, BAT, IGN, ACC" poles. -78 305/350 with HEI and elec choke. -Battery in trunk grounded to frame, power wire running to alt lug and jumped to red wire on DA plug. (+ cable going to big lug on starter obviously) -IGN on starter switch is hooked to the white wire from DA plug. -IGN pole is also hooked to the choke power and HEI wire (I thought cutting the ign switch to off would kill power to the ign pole?) -BAT pole feeds cigarette lighter and is hooked to the large pole on the starter solenoid, with the pos battery cable. -SOL is hooked to the S pole on the solenoid. Thats all the wires I have. So, -HOW should these 5 wires be hooked up? - why would pulling the DA plug no longer work after the first two times? - and why would my engine run with no alt hooked up? pulling power from the battery...? did i fry the alternator somehow or screw something up when the red wire arc'ed out on my valve cover? the last two might be related, but the first is what I really need. Before I fired it I tested every wire with a multimeter and was good.
you charging system is feeding back into your igntion you could install a diode on the #1 terminal of the alternator , or move that wire from the IGN side of tthe ignition switch to the accessory side
The IGN terminal should not be hooked up to alternator at all. IGN will send juice to HEI and choke when key is on - but backfeed from ALT will keep engine running when key is off.
Your 12 volts to the HEI should be run through the switch, also the better way to run a 3 wire GM alt is to have the large red wire from two twerminals together to attach to the power stud on the back and the other connector goto the "alt" or GEN dash light.
The alternator I wire needs a diode in it. Talk to Art at Nelson Specialties 704-662-6600 He is the ignition guru for NASCAR.
If you want to stop a gasoline engine, remove one of three things: air fuel spark The easiest to remove is 'spark', just pull the wire from the coil to the dizzy. If yours is integrated, remove the primary feed, it will have the same effect. BTW, this only applies to dizzy engines, a magneto may be different (I honestly don't know, but figured that info should be added)
My setup is very similar, battery in trunk, 305 motor, but I have a 194 bulb wired in line to switched power on the #1 terminal. Dummy lights can serve 2 purposes. #2 post routed to the charging post, simple 3 wire gm available everywhere.