I ve finished sandblasting / dismantelling parts on one of my cars . I have epoxy Glass Shield . Is it ok for drums ? I know there are good product, better than epoxy , , but I can t afford 200 $ polyurethane for just 4 black drums .... At least , Duplicolor in can ? Thanks .
Assuming it's brake drums, I'd steer clear of it, unless it is specifically formulated for high temperature applications.
I painted calipers with some brush on ceramic caliper paint from Oreilleys, holding up well for 2 years now. comes in black, red, silver, and maybe yellow??
Rustoleum will hold up just fine. Just force dry it or let it cure for a couple weeks before heating it with the brakes. No need to use something fancy intended for bodywork on brake drums.
I wouldnt put anything too expensive on them. This isnt a racing application, your brakes arent going to see crazy hot temps. If they do then you have bigger problems than the paint your using.
I used to always spray the drums black with Krylon. Never burned off but it sure won't have the gloss of epoxy. I only wanted to have them black rather than rust colored.
Ok , Problem solved So I ll spray epoxy ( outside , not inside ) . The car is in the garage and won t run till next summer . this may be enough to cure the paint . It a daily , not a race , and unfortunately it s quite flat here . Nearest mountains are the Adirondack Thanks . Philippe
Epoxy primers especially if 2 pack are the best primer to use over bare metal. They have excellent adhesion to bare steel and are the least pourous of primers (won't absorb so much moisture). Check your product but most epoxy primers will allow you to leave a part stored for long periods before top coating without surface rust appearing. Fillers can be applied over some 2 pack epoxies. One general rule is that they are slow curing and may require heat to set off. I agree unless they're on a race car i.e. multi lap or open winding road style with constant brake use, you won't have a problem with blistering or de-lamination. If you're coating the inside just machine off the casing when ready to use them. Epoxy primers are good to use under high build polyester spray fillers on bodywork. POR15 is also good for suspension/chassis parts. Whatever you use get a technical data sheet and read it, make sure the part is at >20c degrees (sorry that's celcius not foreignhiqe) before applying anything. Sorry if I scared you off with info, I was a technical support/trouble shooter for an auto paint manufacturer for 9 years and a spray painter since 85. Can't wait to see your 37 is is going to be a gasser?
I have powder coated rear drums for many years and then I turn the brake surface area to clean the paint off. I've never had a problem.
A product by "Duro" called "X-tend" brushes on right over flaky rust and turns semi-black after a couple days. 2 coats are better, with a couple hours in between. Solid as a rock, I use it on everything that shows under a car. Will not come off-ever, and is sandable/paintable if you don't want black.
i just used regular paint , never had any problems. the F-100 front and Maverick rear drums on my `28 tudor look fine after 15 years
Thanks all . This forum is always very reactive It s a 38 , but they are quite the same . I m working right now on an Ambassador Rambler 1966 . The Buick will have to wait next summer , if I finish the Rambler first ... Ii s in really bad shape . So I won t rebuild it stock . I fist wanted to put a V8 Oldsmobile inside , but I found a 263 L8 1950 . Not as powerfull , but much more nicer than another V8 on the road according to me . I plan to use a T5 trans , it seems quite easy to do on this engine . Maybe a blower one day , more for the look than power . As I plan to use it as often as possible , it won t be a gasser . Quite a street rod without power
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