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1952-59 Ford Evintho's '54 Customline build

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by evintho, Feb 15, 2020.

  1. 53vicky
    Joined: May 18, 2009
    Posts: 994

    53vicky
    Member

    Impressive work! Keep 'em coming. Maybe I'll see you at a show someday in the nor cal area. Would love to see it.
     
  2. Rui
    Joined: Sep 17, 2012
    Posts: 1,786

    Rui
    Member

    Great work, keep it up.
     
  3. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,570

    evintho
    Member

    Little update.
    Pushed the car out into the street for sandblasting the undercarriage. Put up a blast barrier and proceeded to blast the whole underside of the car.

    IMG_2326.JPG

    IMG_2325 (2).JPG

    That was fun!

    IMG_2329.JPG

    Back into the shop. Primed the firewall, painted the framerails and undercoated everything underneath then reinstalled the rebuilt front suspension with Aerostar coils.

    front susp5.JPG

    Brakewise, I went with '68 Mustang drums, shoes and wheel studs.

    IMG_2415.JPG

    The Raybestos 1634R drums ($30 from RockAuto) fit like a glove and the wheelstuds from NAPA were a bit longer, as were the shoulders but didn't cause any fitment problems at all.

    IMG_2401.JPG

    Next, I decided to tackle the rear pan/valance issue. It's basically two panels sandwiched together. The trunk extension and the outer body panels. I cut the outer body panels out to access the truck extensions. It was this bad on both sides.

    rear valance10.JPG

    Repaired both trunk extensions. I'll attack the outer panels later.

    rear valance11.JPG
    rear valance14.JPG

    Next up, rear suspension removal. I took it out as a unit.

    IMG_2442.JPG

    IMG_2444.JPG

    After blasting underneath, I found this. Trapped dirt and moisture allowed it to eat through the quarter from the inside out.

    IMG_2446.JPG

    IMG_2447 (2).JPG

    Now's the time to address it. With the rearend out I've got all the room in the world to work! First, I cut out the inner panel.

    IMG_2474.JPG

    Next, I coated the inside of the quarter with POR-15 then formed and welded in the corner piece.

    IMG_2476.JPG

    Finally, formed and welded in the longer piece. I just overlapped the metal instead of **** welding 'cause nobody is gonna see that. Once I seam seal and undercoat the repair it'll be basically invisible.

    IMG_2481.JPG

    Turned my attention to the lower section of the quarter. Cut it out, formed a patch and welded it in. A skim coat of filler should finish that up.

    IMG_2483.JPG

    IMG_2486 (3).JPG
    In the morning I'll order all my rearend rebuild parts from Dennis Carpenter so I can get into rebuilding the rear.
    That's all for now.









    .
     
  4. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,945

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    You must have some great blasting equipment. Looking really good.
     
  5. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,570

    evintho
    Member

    Thanks man! Luv my Texas Blaster!

    blaster.JPG
     
    Kustomline54 likes this.
  6. jailbar joe
    Joined: Nov 21, 2014
    Posts: 415

    jailbar joe
    Member

    very methodical work...great results...well done
     
  7. 54HotRod
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 509

    54HotRod
    Member

    Very impressive work. I hope to have your skills one day.
     
  8. shortshift
    Joined: Nov 7, 2013
    Posts: 350

    shortshift
    Member

    Good progress. I am thinking about power brakes. I see your booster is flush mounted. What booster are you using and did you change the pedal ratio . Thanks
     
  9. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,570

    evintho
    Member

    No, I didn't change the pedal ratio. By my calcs it sits at around 5:1. The 5.0 that's going in pulls 16" of vacuum @ idle so I'm hoping those two factors and the fact I'm running drum brakes will compensate for a touchy/sensative brake pedal.

    Here's the booster I'm running...…
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Diaphragm-8-Power-Brake-Booster-Gold-Zinc-Universal-Hot-Rod-Universal-GM/191875518176?hash=item2cacac0ee0:g:SfEAAOSwlJlaoY6s
     
  10. Dos Cincos
    Joined: May 13, 2011
    Posts: 935

    Dos Cincos
    Member

    I need to make those same rust repairs on my 55. You made it look easy
     
  11. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,945

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    Now you have my admiration. That was tough work with a pot blaster. I have one , not that brand, and not fun to do what you did. Makes me recall my first real attempt to clean a frame with the body on. This was about 1970 on a 1940 Ford. I had a siphon blaster, visqueen taped from body to floor, and a bright , for the time, light. Even though I had a head/face cover I had sand in my eras for days. Never did that again. Great job man.
     
  12. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    Just a notation if you still have a y-block this unit will not work there are similar units on e-bay that come with an offset bracket to clear the exhaust manifolds.
     
  13. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,570

    evintho
    Member

    Rear suspension finished! Blew it all apart and sandblasted everything...…

    IMG_2494.JPG

    Bolted a couple of lengths of 1" square tubing to the 3rd member and that made it easy to carry around. Set it on a 15 gallon barrel for cleaning.....

    IMG_2454.JPG

    Replaced the axle bearings and seals, all new bushings, anti-squeak pads, spring clamps, etc.
    Here's all the small hardware painted and ready to go back on...…

    Cleaned rearend parts.JPG

    I'm far too old to lay on my back and wrestle a 3rd member into place. I ratchet strapped it to the floor jack and it was amazingly easy to slide into place!

    3rd member1.JPG

    All new brakes and replaced all the brake lines and rubber hoses too. All back together and looking good!

    IMG_2544.JPG

    Scored a brand new fuel tank from a member here who bought it for his '56 years ago but sold the car before he could install it. Got it for a great price too! Holds a full 22 gallons!

    Gas tank1.JPG

    The '55-'56 tanks are a little different than the '54's but it fit perfectly! The only mod necessary was to lengthen the mounting straps a couple of inches. I utilized the tank straps that came with it then cut the rear sections off my old '54 straps and welded them to the new straps.

    Gas tank2.JPG

    I'll be running the factory Mustang fuel injection so I ordered the in-tank fuel pump cradle from Backorder Bob Drake. Well, the fuel lines stick up an inch above the trunk floor. What to do? I removed the access door for the sending unit from the trunk floor then opened it up to the front of the fuel tank.

    IMG_2548.JPG

    Built the sides then designed a box to cover the obtrusion.

    IMG_2547.JPG

    IMG_2551.JPG

    I welded the back portion to the sending unit access door 'cause it's got a neat little flap that slides under the trunk floor and secures it in the rear and 2 screws hold down the front. I like it!

    IMG_2552.JPG

    Next up is a full rewire!
     
    Texas57 and 54 ford coupe like this.
  14. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    Great Build ! And these pictures may be a huge help to guys with 52-54 projects.
     
    Kustomline54 likes this.
  15. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,570

    evintho
    Member

    Thanks Jeff! I try to do***ent most everything I do in the hopes that it'll help the next guy with his project.
    My goal is to get the platform for the car finished, then I can build up from there. With the floors replaced, suspensions rebuilt and the undercarriage blasted and painted/undercoated, I think I'm about there! Onward and upward!
     
    Texas57 and JeffB2 like this.
  16. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,742

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Jeff called my attention to this thread, it appears you have made a lot of progress.

    I was impressed with the cradle you built to support the front of the frame with the front suspension being removed.

    I am subscribed, your do***entation and discription will help a lot of guys facing these types of repairs. HRP
     
  17. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,945

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    I agree with HRP, and he made me look again. I did almost exactly the same to my 55 trunk for that Drake set up. Doing some very nice work.
     
  18. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,570

    evintho
    Member

    A little more progress. Pulled the original wiring harness....what a mess! The cloth insulation was basically gone with lots of bare wire exposed.

    IMG_2682 (2).JPG

    Luckily, I found this at a garage sale awhile back for $25. The guy obviously didn't know what he had. The box was a little beat up but everything inside was there, complete and still sealed in their cellophane bags!

    IMG_2680.JPG

    IMG_2681.JPG

    Mounted the fusebox high on the kickpanel and tucked up and behind the dash.

    IMG_2555.JPG
    I separated all the wiring and ran it to it's respective areas. It's coiled up and marked and ready for connection.

    IMG_2557.JPG

    IMG_2558.JPG

    Moving on to the next task, I pulled the windshield and back gl***. The gaskets were toast and I needed to do a bunch of metalwork on the roof so out they came. Surprising how easy they were to remove! The windshield gasket was brittle so I just popped the inside lip off in chunks with a screwdriver.

    IMG_2562.JPG

    I left the stainless mouldings on because they're integral to the gasket. I gently pushed on the top part of the gl*** while my wife held the bottom so it wouldn't pop out and hit the floor. Came right out!

    IMG_2570.JPG

    IMG_2569.JPG

    The back gasket wasn't as brittle so I had to slice all around the inside lip with a razor knife. Did the same procedure. Pushed on the top portion of the gl*** while my wife held the bottom. Again, came right out!

    IMG_2571.JPG

    Built a little stand using s**** lumber, electrical conduit and some pipe insulation. Now they're stored out of the way so they won't get damaged.

    IMG_2572.JPG

    Next up is more metalwork. The drip rail and sections of the roof were rotted through. This was the worst spot. Cut out the drip rail and roof section. No turning back now!

    IMG_2639.JPG

    It's packed with that factory sealer garbage that loves to retain moisture. Had to s****e that all out.

    IMG_2640.JPG

    Did the front section first then moved onto the side section.

    IMG_2643.JPG

    Welded on a 1/2" strip for the valley of the drip rail.

    IMG_2646.JPG

    Next I built the face of the drip rail. Cut a 1/2" strip of 18ga and gave it a little tweak in the middle on my HF brake. That helped it match the contour of the original. Welded it on. I could barely get the tip of my MIG down in the hole!

    IMG_2648.JPG

    Moved onto the side section and did the same procedure. Made relief cuts every inch or so I could make the curve.

    IMG_2649.JPG

    Semi-finished product. Might not win the Ridler award but it'll do!

    IMG_2650.JPG

    Had to do the whole front section too.

    IMG_2653.JPG

    IMG_2665.JPG

    Had to backtrack a little today. When I mounted the '55 fuel tank I thought all was good and then I noticed the fuel door would close all the way except when the gas cap was on! So, today I pulled the tank and shortened the filler tube a little over an inch.

    IMG_2671.JPG

    IMG_2673.JPG

    Fits like a glove now and the door closes with the cap on!

    IMG_2675 (2).JPG
    That's all for today. I hope I'm not overwhelming you guys with tons of pics! I just like to do***ent and explain everything I do in the hopes it'll help someone else during their build. I've got a little more metal work to do and then I'll start pulling the drivetrain outta the Mustang.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 1, 2020
  19. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,945

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    Excellent thread and I am not overwhelmed. Looking forward to your following posts.
     
    JeffB2 likes this.
  20. 54vicky
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,599

    54vicky
    Member

    you are doing excellent work the only drawback may be what will occupy your time and keep you out of your wifes hair:D:D.I am sure rich can relate to your wiring even if his was a bigger project but still a pile of spaghetti :)
     
    Texas57 and JeffB2 like this.
  21. beachcruzer
    Joined: Aug 14, 2015
    Posts: 197

    beachcruzer

    Very nice work! keep those pictures coming. I have exactly the same work to do, right up to the rusted areas, rear, wiring, etc. I have a built y block and want to run fuel inj also. Interested in how you will run fuel lines from pump onward.
     
  22. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,570

    evintho
    Member

    Not quite there yet but, I have an in-tank fuel pump. The tank is a Bob Drake unit. I'll need to fab my own supply and return fuel lines and run them forward to the fuel rail on the 5.0.
     
  23. the-stig
    Joined: Jun 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,531

    the-stig
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Lookin good, great work.
     
  24. Zax
    Joined: May 21, 2017
    Posts: 902

    Zax
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Impressive work! Do you have formal metal fabrication training or are you self taught?
     
  25. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,570

    evintho
    Member

    Thanks Zax! No formal training. Took a welding cl*** at JC a couple of years ago, bought a MIG and got to work. Cut my teeth fabbing body panels and patch panels for the roadster. I learned long ago, patience and attention to detail separates the men from the boys.
     
    Kustomline54 and 54 ford coupe like this.
  26. Texas57
    Joined: Oct 21, 2012
    Posts: 3,741

    Texas57
    Member

    Wow, I've missed most if not all of this thread....gonna find some time to go back and read/study! Impressive progress.
     
    Kustomline54 likes this.
  27. Kustomline54
    Joined: Aug 15, 2009
    Posts: 558

    Kustomline54
    Member

    Definitely helping me! Thank you for the progress pics! Killer build!
    Getting ready to do my floors and rockers, will be ordering pretty soon!
     
  28. beachcruzer
    Joined: Aug 14, 2015
    Posts: 197

    beachcruzer

    Great solution for covering your in tank pump. Blends in as well as possible and easily removed for servicing. I won't be able to use this in my wagon, but helpful to many. Nice job!
     
  29. ffr1222k
    Joined: Nov 5, 2009
    Posts: 1,455

    ffr1222k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice work on that roof!
     
    JeffB2 likes this.
  30. 56longroof
    Joined: Aug 1, 2011
    Posts: 2,379

    56longroof
    Member

    Impressive work.
     
    JeffB2 likes this.

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