Exhaust cut-outs using ball valves?

Want to put some cut-outs on my shop truck. Anyone use br*** or SS ball valves for this, maybe wire them to cables like the old ones, No leak and easy opening. Which is better- Br*** or SS to stand up to exhaust g***es?

 

Do they make them big enough? 2"-3" That would be worth messing with?

 

Depending on what the packing is made of, you better be careful of what you use. If it's Teflon packing, it'll melt at around 400 F. If you're set on using this type of valve, look in Grainger's catalog for the correct temperature application. And they'll be expensive too. The EGT will be over 900 F after the exhaust pipes. I really think you need to look at a different type of valve for this.

 

From grainger's:

6GD35

Stainless Steel Ball Valve, Inlet/Outlet 2 Inches,
Temperature Rating -60 to 450 Degrees Fahrenheit, 1500 PSI

These are the highest temp I could find so I guess that's not gonna work...thanks.

 

mcmcaster might have something, but...i remember a thread on this not too long ago and everyone basically agreed, cool idea, probably wouldnt work as good as it sounds.

so far the coolest cutout/block off plate ive seen is clarks on his 32 with the internal screw.

 

like this..

 

hey I like the , what is that, pipe fitting I guess? home depot? pretty cool. my friend has a set of those electric motor ones that have a ****erfly valve, they don't seal completely at idle, he's been kicking himself for not spending more moeny and getting better ones.

 

that ball valve would have to be soldered on the exhaust pipe...and i don't think the solder woud take the heat either. most solder used in plumbing has a melting point of about 450-460 degrees

 

Schedual 40 screw on pipe caps work well too, just be sure to coat them with anti-sieze and keep a channel locks in the glove box. the pipe is a bit heavy though, so be sure to use as little as possible.

 

what about using a couple of gas tank fill tubes, and just take off the gas cap when needed...

 

I think if you replaced the gasket with a high temp one, that would be a cheap and easy way to go.
Anyone else?

Craig

 

it would need to be the earlier style filler tubes not the newer screw in plastic ones, i would think...

 

Forty three years ago in my 1st ride in a hotrod the 34 Ford chopped and channeled pickup in Norwell M***. had the gas cap cutouts. I remember it like yesterday when he asked me to open the door and unscrew the cap right in front of the door. I did my side and he did the drivers side and we burned rubber down the street. Wow!!! after that I was hooked for life!!! I really think it would be a quick easy and good looking conversion. Gas caps are cheap too and make a gasket out of high temp material. Gary M

 

This gas cap idea is a new one to me, and is one of the best and easiest I've heard so far. Maybe use some wood stove door graphite rope as the seal(avalible at any hardware store)? It's pleanty temperature resistant. In reality it wouldnt get all that hot anyway, a capped 2' dump tube with no flow through it will take a good long time to get hot at the end.

 

i'm using sneaker-pipes from Brockman Mello-Tone..

 

Oh good gravy -- plumbing stuff and this doesn't get a "trailer trash" call out? LOL

 

I got JC Whitneys cable operated cutouts and found out that JC Whitney left off part of the flapper so I cut them open and welded in the missing piece. Been good for years now.

 

Tommy has cool screw-off type caps on his roadster, they're very cool.

 

screw off caps are always too hot and too dirty to handle

 

What are you wanting the cut-outs for? There are some mufflers (Warlocks?) that use a blockout plate with wingnuts (?) that you can basically make into freeflow pretty quickly. I think adding 10 lbs of pipe fittings is going to cost you the extra 2-3 hp gain . . . especially if you have everything sized right. Loud doesn't always equal fast.

 

Convenience. Unscrewing a cap on a dump under the rocker is much easier than having to jack up a low car to get under far enough to take the Warlock caps off. Same problem the Summit cutouts have, you have to jack the car up to get to them.

 

A friend of mine used the gas tank fillers on his '32 5 window when we were in high school. They were mounted under the running board so that we could open the door, reach down, and uncap them. It worked pretty well.

Slonaker

 

Is this trad? Because it looks like ****, regardless.

 

"What are you wanting the cut-outs for?"

Fun, just fun to put a smile on my face when I pull into a driveway to pick somebody up......not polite to blow the horn.. but if I could open up the pipes easily from inside...well-Fun...thats all. 10 lbs. of pipe ain't gonna git noticed in the shop truck, always lots of parts in the back.
So any thoughts on a ****pit controled dump system that doesn't leak?

 

When the welds were cleaned and the whole things sprayed you wouldnt even notice it. Creative idea in my books.

 

I've given this some thought in the past.

An idea I have is to make a cap that closes real tight against the end of the tube. Make it so its on a hinge (think big rig tractor exhaust flapper).
Make it so is held closed with a nice heavy spring.

Now make it so you can open it with an emergency brake handle.

You following me? The brake handle would be hooked to a cable (just like they are when on the brakes) the cable would be hooked to the flapper cap. When you pull the handle the caps come open. When you let off the handle the springs on the caps pull them closed again.

I even drew up a plan for it, but I don't know where that is now.

At any rate, I think it would work.

 

I've thought about doing it like that as well, maybe even using readily avalible flipper caps as the cap. I can't come up with a good and reliable way to seal them though. Even with a big mondo spring, I'd think you would still have some leakage.

 

What about a flared end tube and a cap with a modified exhaust donut on it? Be kinda like a bathtub stopper...

Or something of the sort.....


I was thinking of two triangular flanges with those rubberized sorta gaskets glued on them.

I think it would take some doing, but I think a person might be able to get it to seal pretty good....

If you'd use the triangular flanges (like summit and jegs sell) You could also slip a few bolts in the 3 holes and lock them down tight for when you absolutely did not want any leakage.

On saturday night when you want to blow out some eardrums at some stoplights in town.....just take out the 3 bolts before leaving the house... and proceed to use your emergency brake handle cut out exhaust at your leisure in town...sure there might be some leakage...but I bet it would be quiet enough for cruising.

I don't know, just thinking out loud.

There HAS to be a way to make the flappers not leak.

anyone else wanna bench race this one?????

 

Just had another thought.

What about instead of using the springs to keep the flappers closed, you just reversed the whole system and used the emergency brake cable to keep the flappers closed. That would be a whole lot of clamping force....

You then use the springs to open them.

Example: You pull the E-brake handle and that closes the flappers. You let off of the e-brake handle and that lets the tension off the cables and then the springs open the flappers.


Same system, just reversed.

 

Now that's an idea. You'd have pleanty of pressure to squish a gasket good and tight. My thought on the gasket was my afore mentioned stove door gasket. I think it would be a fair choice because it'll handle the heat well, and will stay reasonably plyable. I'm sure there are high temp rubbers out there too, and even silicone may be an option.