Have not done an exhaust system before. -I have a flathead with Red's headers. They are 1 3/4" OD. -Have 22" Smithy's with 2" inlet and outlet. -I don't want to weld or use fancy (nontraditional) connectors. -I Want to run the pipes with kickouts just in front of the rear wheels. Can I use 1 7/8" pipe and connect everything up with exhaust clamps? Thanks for any helpful suggestions.
Thanks HHR. I could weld, but would like to be able to take down and rearrange if needed. My welding skills are borderline as well. Would the clamps crimp enough to a seal from 1 3/4" header to 1 7/8" pipe and 1 7/8" pipe to 2" muffler inlet/outlet?
If you want the cl***ic flathead sound get 4 reducers and run the pipes in 1 3/4" tubing. I could never get the cl***ic sound until a customer insisted on 1 3/4 " just like he had back in the day. I always used 2" that I had in stock. BINGO a flatty that sounded like a flatty should!!! I took my 22" Smittys off...they were too quiet. I used 14" generic gl***packs. My buddy had me eliminate his mufflers all together. With the smaller pipe out to the bumper...it was not bad at all. I have no mufflers on my Studebaker powered 34 PU just 1 3/4' tubing. no clamps will not compress the pipe to a different size. It will leak and sound like ****. reducers are what you need with the proper size clamps. 2" for the muffler and 1 3/4" for the pipes.
Tommy thanks! I will try to do that. It is what I wanted to do. What is the best to mate up 1 3/4" tubing sections? Band clamps?
Band clamps are not traditional. I was in business several years before a customer brought me some to use. A good muffler shop will have the machine to expand the tubing to go over itself. slip the 2 together and clamp. I don't remember them making band clamps for 1 3/4" they may but I never used any. I was surprised that the bigger sizes did not leak. If it's a traditional build, use the old style clamps. Details make a difference.JMO
Like this? 2" 309 SS all the way back. No mufflers at all, it's not that loud since flathead compression is relatively low compared to other engines. Sound comes out behind you anyhow. I welded tubing to make it cleaner but you could clamp it. Used Harley p-clamps to hold it in place. SS flex pipe allows for engine movement. Tractor flappers talk at idle.
Ha ..... you guessed it! Trator flapper from Tractor Supply. They really count the cylinders off with an Isky 400 Jr cam at idle. Yes SS flex pipe is just after cast iron Fenton header. Welded a 2" stub to a bolt on 2" header flange, then used SS band clamp to hold flex pipe in place. No leaks and comes apart easy. SS band clamps are aftermarket Harley used to secure Shovelhead intake manifolds.
I see those flex pipes on traditional cars and just laugh. The only thing I ever saw them on was a transverse mounted import car. I guess some guys want all the bells and whistles and will pay the price for them just to say I have one but personally I think they look stupid on a hotrod. If the crankshaft is parallel to the center line of the car they are just a waste of money. All the guys that disagree with me...get out all your old magazines and point them out to me. I'll wait.
A properly mounted exhaust system shouldn't need flex pipe if the engine is also properly mounted. If you think you might want to take the system apart later have reducers welded to the mufflers (or the pipes) and clamp the other end to the other piece so you don't have side by side clamps cluttering things up. As someone said, it doesn't cost much to have a good muffler shop weld it up.
Point taken. There are some posts on here about using flex exhaust tubing. The general agreement is that they are not a good solution. They leak, don't bend well and if steel don't last. Apparently they may be traditional and are seen on 40's and 50's hot rods. But the stainless steel certainly would not be traditional. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=547811&highlight=flexible+exhaust+tubing
Don't confuse bendable pipe with a flex pipe. Bendable pipe was just a cheap solution sold in Pep Boys and other cheap suppliers for guys that could not afford doing the job right. Bendable pipe was junk that was so thin that it would rust out in a year. Maybe suitable for RRs but no self respecting hotrodder would ever use it. I don't get nostalgic for junk just because it was around back then. It was junk back then and it still is.
I have Smitties and Red's Headers on my '42. The 2 in / 2 out on the mufflers is not a problem. Weld the muffler to the header extension and have a muffler shop bend up some 2 inch tubing to put from the muffler back. You can clamp that part with traditional clamps.
Haha … some people just take this stuff too seriously. Probably the most important thing is to maximize your time on the road and minimize repairs or down time when something does need to be fixed. Meanwhile ........... I'm racking up the miles with no leaks and a TIG welded system that I can dis***emble in minutes that will outlast any carbon steel or galvanized, U-clamped clutter. I’ll see you guys on the road, as I’m driving by while you’re waiting for a tow truck because your "traditional" pipe or hanger rusted through then fell off and wrapped around the back axle.
My **** doesn't fall off or rust out. This is not a rat rod site. I've never had my **** towed home or trailered. I have aluminized pipes on some of my customer cars that were bent up 30 years ago and still going strong. I get offended by your accusations.
It always amazes me how some (don't bunch your *******) can make the most simple of projects complicated. A solid, simple, good looking hot rod exhaust can be had for less than 200 bucks. Way less in most cases.
To the OP, this is a traditional site - have a go and build your own system, you'll surprise yourself. It's not rocket science and it does'nt get any more traditional than that. Right ?
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