exhaust pipe on back of engine??

on my 265 in my 50 shoebox, i turned down a nylon plug, drilled for a PVC valve and plumbed in to base of carb, works good.

 

Don"t let that guy touch your engine at all,he"ll just screw it up more than it is.Get you the manual as suggested or maybe try to find a Hamb member in your area to give you a hand.

 

Thanks for all of the information everyone. If the engine is worn, it might be time for me to sell the 283 and look for a solid 350 and exchange the very sluggish powerglide for something with a little more torque. I'm gonna do my best to make it this weekend, cant wait to see whats out there this year.

 

Sounds good Brad, maybe I can find someone this weekend who lives near and knows a lot more than I do..

 

_____________

 

Haynes Chevy Engine Overhaul Manual?? If this is the one I need, Ill order it right now. I found one online.

 

Does your "mechanic" have zits?
Seriously, if it's an old stock engine and has been sitting a while, a couple quick oil & filter changes with some good detergent high ZDDP oil like VR-1 and some Seafoam added will probably clear up a lot of that "smoke", if it's not just worn out. That Seafoam is pretty good at freeing up stuck rings- change the oil as soon as it starts to show some serious color, before the filter clogs up and byp***es. Should start to run smoother, too, you can also run some Seafoam thru the carb to clean up the valves. If it's been running rich, check the plugs- but just clean them up and put them back in until after the Seafoam treatment

 

He's an older gentleman here in my small town that has a small shop, I just took it up there cause it was close and I was hoping he could spare some knowledge.

 

Moreso than oil vapors what you're probably seeing is the unburned air/fuel charge that has found its way past the rings and valve guides. In a street driven engine with any miles on it, a small amount of it's not a real cause for concern. If the engine has set without running for a long time it may have gotten worse as a result of sticking rings.

If you get the driveability issues sorted out, change the oil and filter and put some road miles on it, it may clear itself up a bit. Make sure that the crankcase vent filter (probably in the oil filler cap) is clean, or as already suggested, consider upgrading to a later style PCV system.

 

I changed the oil with a full synthetic last weekend before I drove it for the first time, used a k&N filter. Checked the oil this week and it was black already again. I will plan on changing it again. Also last weekend I put new plugs and wires in. Had the exhaust done this week, looks like there is a leak already where the header meets the pipe at the condenser. I'll have to re-gasket that, and change the oil once more. As for the seafoam, Do I just empty a bottle into the gas tank and fill it back up and drive it through>

 

1962 is the last year for road draft tubes on Chevy V8s, if it is in fact smoking you have a bigger problem brewing. They are pretty rare now but were a couple of different solutions using stock GM pieces one was a metal cap with a tube that allowed you to put an inline PCV in. The other is a rubber plug that a PCV plugs into directly. The system as it is brings fresh air into the engine and expells the crankcase fumes via the road tube, I have seen situations where people replace the stock intake and don't have the filler tube and put on a valve cover on to put oil in the motor with out having a breather to let in fresh air. This leads to a lot of blown gaskets and seals as well as what we used to call "bad breath" out the road draft tube.

 

another thing - you said your 'mechanic' closed down the idle mixture screws? Time to find a new guy....I don't care HOW old he is...if he's been working on cars for more than 40yrs, he shouldn't have had a question about the draft tube. AND....you don't close off idle mixture screws....if that's the only way to eliminate your problem(s), there's something else wrong. Get a book so YOU understand what's under the hood, and get a guy that knows what a conventional engine (carb, points/condenser, etc) looks like.

 

Yeah it sat since Nov. of 2009 pretty much. I just got it started about a week ago. I have put approx. 80 miles on it so far, but not completely sure because my speedo doesnt work. That's a whole other story though.

 

Did the issue get worse when you switched to a full synthetic?

 

I dont know if it got worse, I changed the oil before I drove it because it was watery and a nasty black. I figured it wasnt going to be good to run old broke down oil in it. I did drive it onto a trailer a couple of times when bringing it home, and it started good, but had trouble getting onto the trailer when I gave it gas it would just die after a struggle.

 

That's really surprising, usually it's the young guys that don't know about the "old" stuff- pretty much everything from cars to trucks to tractors to lawn mowers had some version of this simple systemright up until the smog laws required going to a closed system that sent the vapors into the intake system to be burned. Unless it's just shot, just start on the oil changes and Seafoam and start driving it- it will either clean up, or you'll know it's shot. If you were to do a compression check on it now, and after the fresh oil/Seafoam treatment, you'd probably see higher and more consistent readings "after"

 

If it was me, I would get rid of the synthetic oil. It works good on newer engines but older ones with high miles it can actually cause increased blow by (the smoke out of your road draft tube).

 

There's a thread on seafoam- read the thread &the can. Advanced auto has it on sale this month.
Loose the synthetic oil.

After you get it cleaned out try this before you try a swap or rebuild.
"Restore" is a product that I have had amazing luck with. Its like 9.00 for the v8 size and worth a try. Does exactly what it says , amazing as long as its not so far gone that nothing can save it.

Find a Mechanic that can remember before computers.

 

I agree .... any decent brand non-synthetic oil would probably be a better bet for that engine.

 

What kind of oil do you suggest? I'll go grab the seafoam and another oil change set today and start with that.

 

if you need a new one , flux capacitors are available at your local O'reilly Auto Parts

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EB00/121G.oap?keyword=121g

 

I use Valvoline racing 20/50 in all my old cars.

 

Flux capacitor huh. Very helpful, thank you. Though I'm not sure my wagon can even get up to 88 mph.

 

That fresh oil is already cleaning it up- just watch it more closely, and change it as soon as it shows good color- don't wait for it to get black & thick. Don't buy expensive oil for a while, because it won't be in there very long- just make sure you use one with proper ZDDP or a ZDDP additive. Put 1/2 of the can of Seafoam in the oil, and very slowly pour the other half in the carburetor- you'll have to give it a bit of throttle to keep it running. Let it set overnight before you fire it again- it'll smoke like hell for a while, then clear up. Not recommended if you live in a city subdivision- it'll throw out quite a cloud for a while

 

Don't forget to pick up a new Henway when you're getting the Seafoam

 

You can YouTube search "seafoam" to get an idea. Whooo-hooo!

 

Don't get an engine rebuild manual just yet. It'd be best to first find a book that tells you how to maintain your wagon. One of the best is the "Motors Manual" a precursor to Chilton's. You won't find one at auto zone or whatever parts house. Look in used book stores, ebay, craigslist, and sometimes yard sales.
Also, learning how to use vacuum and compression gauges can tell you a lot of info about the condition of your engine. Your spark plugs can also tell you lots about what is going on inside of your engine.
There is tons of info on the HAMB and various other sites too.
Dumping in different snake oils may very well clean up the problem with the smoke. But they will do just that, clean it up or hide it. There are tools and ways to approach the problem that can tell you exactly what is going on with your auto. If you are willing to jump in that far, it will be a lesson well learned.

 

Had one worse, and it turned out to be a good deal for me. Went to look at a couple '47 Indians, one together, the other in several baskets. This guy had had them for quite a while, thought the engine in the "together" one was shot as when he started it it smoked like hell. If you're familiar with them, the oil tank is the front half of the right gas tank, with a par***ion and separate cap for the oil portion. It had been dropped on that side, with a nice dent in the tank, with just a touch of oil weeping out- so I took off the gas cap on that side, and there was an inch of oil in the bottom of it, and the pet**** was open- put the cap right back on and bought them "non-running". Got it home and shut off the pet****, pulled the bowl off the Super B carb, and it was half oil, half gas. Darined it, some fresh gas in the left tank, kicked it through 3 times with the switch off, switch on, fired right way- and smoked way more than a Seafoam treatment, as that flathead can "hold" a lot of oil. Filled my whole shop with smoke, and the 12' doors in front were open- a gal on a bicycle going by yelled to ask if I wanted her to call the fire department
Kept smoking less and less, and never fouled a plug- still running great 4 years later

 

i thought we established those came stock in amc's?

36-3window,i just want to know what you were doing when you found that?

 

I have more of the old Motors books than I'll ever need.Send me a PM with your address and I'll send you one free.