Yo guys!! Been a bit since ive been on here (hell years even). I just got a 69 impala and have a few little riddles I am trying to figure out. 1. the fan clutch def needs to be replaced and every new one I have gotten my hands on the bolt holes do not marry with the fan. Can I just bore new holes on the original fan? 2. every now and then the exhaust smell is insanely intense in the cabin. Ive had three cl***ics prior to this one and I cant remember having that issue. Its bagged all the way around so the muffler is tucked and stops just short of the driver rear tire. Thinking either A. its just close to the cabin or B. given bottoming out slammed here in there maybe theres a few holes underneath. Any advice on where to start that search?
Welcome back. You're in luck, the HAMB now has a forum where your 69 Impala is welcome, it probably wouldn't live on the main forum very long. Here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forums/off-topic-hot-rods-customs.98/
1969 ANYTHING IS OFF TOPIC FOR THIS FORUM. As far as the fan hub, you are far better off to find the correct hub/fan than drill holes. Bagged cars or trucks that lay frame create their own issues with exhaust and anything that hangs below the frame. For that you need to go to a lowrider group and see what they say.
Hello, Recently, I drew a set of diagrams on how our experiments with exhaust outlets worked on our 1951 Oldsmobile and 1958 Impala, when we were teens. Both of them were individual cases, but the standard warnings are always in place. What warnings? Well for the major one, exhausts at the front of the rear wheel always draws exhaust smoke and unseen CO into the car. Whether it is through and open window or a leaky seal. It will come in and no one will be able to tell it. “it’s a little smoke, but ok…” The next area is behind the tire. It is the same result or a little less due to the spinning tire moving the smoke or bad fumes away. But, our experiments always drew them in to the cab. We can’t smell CO, but if a gas smell or exhaust smell it felt, then the CO is there. Otherwise, the CO is there and we are all dizzy. Dizzy from fumes, seen or not... No, not that kind of smoke...! Your sedan having a lowered stance is ripe for all sorts of dings and s****es, leading to cracks and leaks. If your mufflers have a slight crack, it leaks. The smell is exhaust, but the danger is the CO that can not be notices, until it is too late. If your exhaust pipes stop after the muffler… there in lies the number one cause. Remember, if your car is lowered, the muffler/ pipes hit everything and every bump in the road is a hinderance to keeping it pristine. But, even if your car is standard height, when everyone is seated front and back, now, the car is lowered and the first thing to hit is gas tank, the frame or muffler system. Plus, the State Highway Patrol may pull you over for overloading the car. Jnaki So, start by checking where your final exhaust pipe exit is located and if there are any cracks or splits from s****ing. We can attest that despite the exhaust tips in front of the tire (Looks great, but worse for smell) and behind the tire opening (OK, but still drawing in the exhaust smell, even when running on a hot summer night with all of the windows down) were tried and tested. But, when our muffler guy finished the custom made pipe routing system, it was the best and still gave us performance we wanted when necessary. The cruising noise was almost non existent, other than the rumble of the big modified 348 motor. The complete story: With the advent of performance mufflers, the modeled straight through pipe for the exhaust routing it between the “y” headers and muffler is usually a straight path. From this, those short bend exhaust outlets can be placed for best straight through open exhausts. For the 58 Impala, everything had to be stock. No headers, but the exhaust had to run through factory stock mufflers and out of the rear bumper area. While our local muffler shop guy was designing the whole system, we already had tubular Corvette mufflers installed and so we put on short down tips for a temporary finishing look and sound. The look was ok, but the sound was like a straight through exhaust system fully opened at all levels of acceleration… loud and very loud. The second choice to keep the noise and exhaust out of the open window seating area was to run the over the hump extension and end behind the tire opening. At least the spinning tire would help the smoke exit the opening. But the short pipe was still loud inside of the Impala seating area. Finally, our muffler guy finished the well designed (tucked under and no hanging low metal close to the ground) exhaust system and the complete set ran over the hump and the chrome tip were barely past the chrome rear bumper. Now, the noise was gone, a tremendous surge of power when the accelerator was pushed to the floor was the result and the engine making so much power was the “noise.” But, despite the added original down exhaust outlet tube, we capped it up and 40 years later, waved goodbye to the dual chrome pipe set up of the original scavenger pipes. They were a phase, that did nothing for performance and added too much weight to the overall car. The fad did not last long on the street, either, as those were the first to get damaged on any bump or street culverts. Drive-in theater row selections? No way anything but outside row with a flat space and speaker or back row flat area heavily patrolled by the “white coat” guys on bicycles. YRMV Note: The only good thing that came from this exhaust outlet/scavenger pipe history was the design and development of a cool way to open and close the outlet cap. The down tube end caps would have a slit cut into one of the nut/bolt holes. The nut was now permanently attached to the cap with a wingnut. When the wingnuts were loosened, the cap easily slid out and over to open the exhaust opening. The wing nut was easier to tighten and keep in place. Even a small rock could tighten the wing… So, it was a miracle, but my brother put me in charge of the modification and it worked well as planned. Before we started using blue Loc-***e, several of the wing nuts came loose and fell off, creating a jiggling metal on metal sound. The cap was loose and one remaining wing nut was keeping the whole thing from falling completely off. But, a spot weld on the end of the bolt took care of lost wingnuts. So, if and when we got stopped(never did) after a high speed open exhaust run on Cherry Avenue or anywhere, several seconds was all it took to cap up the outlets. Fast and easy. YRMV
Hotrodders.com is a far more friendly to 69 chebbie cars board than the Hamb is. I'm thinking that they also have a section just for guys with bagged cars.
Did I miss something here? Isn't this the "Off Topic " board? I don't see what all the fuss is about.
My guess is that it was originally posted on the regular part of the board and then got moved over here. I suspect we are going to see this from time to time for a while. The trolls just can't accept this section.
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