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extreme paint frustration...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ratrod40428, Jun 20, 2004.

  1. ratrod40428
    Joined: May 19, 2004
    Posts: 195

    ratrod40428
    Member

    My 62' Chevy C-10 was/is very rusty, mainly surface rust, but rust non the less. I started sanding and priming the cab a while ago. I went all the way to bare metal, I stopped after the roof and the pillars, because I wanted to see if the primer was water proof and if it really did kill the rust. it didnt, and it rusted through. That was just Rustoleum grey primer. So I thought if I got Self Etching Primer and went all the way to bare metal it would work. So I sanded the whole front clip (hood,fenders,radiator support,etc) and sprayed them in black Etching Primer, it looked sweet and seemed to be working, but after the first light rain it was as rusty as before.... What am I doing wrong???

    its summer time and i want to finish priming it, it hasnt been just one color for over 20 years and i want to change that.... right now it is sitting in my driveway in 4 colors white, black, grey and rust....
     
  2. SwitchBlade327
    Joined: Dec 15, 2002
    Posts: 2,911

    SwitchBlade327
    Member

    primer in the rain=rust. I've never seen a primer that would hold up to the elements indefinately. the topcoats are what normally keep out the elements. never used rustoleum on a car so i have no clue about it. If your going for the primer look though I'd just use a basecoat and flat clear, costs more, but done right you won't have to worry too much about it rusting back through.
    Maybe one of those chemical washes that kill rust and leave a barrier on the metal would work out good for ya, I dont' have much experience with them, but were about to test some out of a buddy's car to see what the deal is with them.
     
  3. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,602

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    Primer isn't waterproof. That is the topcoats job. If you want the 'primer look' you can mix some sort of flatting agent with top coat and get waterproof paint that looks like primer. That's what I'm ging to do on my car.
     
  4. Slag Kustom
    Joined: May 10, 2004
    Posts: 4,312

    Slag Kustom
    Member

    there are diffrent types of primers . a primer surfacer is used for filling (not water proof) primer sealer is used for sealing (water proof) but uv light will break it down.
    if there is any kind of pitting from the surface rust you must get all of it cleaned out or else it will come back no matter what you put over it.
     
  5. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,150

    slammed
    Member

    Strip it again. Clean, sand, all rust. Prep for primer. PPG has a wash that will help kill rust.Read and follow inst.A low budget product, Extend(spray bomb) is a rust 'converter' which turn's the metal a blue/black-ish color. Once these step's have been followed,top with your shade of ectching primer it too will resist (but not stop) rust. A clear coat with a flattenig agent (say 30%) will seal and aid in color hold out (resist sun fade) Keep everything clean,dry and overed till metal is covered w/finish coat. These step's and those given by the afore member's shall give you a longer lasting,better finish. Prep is everything. Protect your lung's and skin this stuff is strong. Take some before and after's too, these truck's are neat. Love to stuff a 348 in one of these.
     
  6. ratrod40428
    Joined: May 19, 2004
    Posts: 195

    ratrod40428
    Member

    what is that ppg stuff called that cleans all the pitted areas? this truck was pretty rusty, there way alot of surface rust that was just deep enough to not just sand off... so there is alot of pitted spots...
     
  7. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,150

    slammed
    Member

    Have to look that part# up. Try a wire wheel chucked into a drill.Work wheel at different speed's,forward awhile then reverse(the wheel get's 'set').The messy wicked sandblaster set on light pressure to clean out below suface damage,is last choice as far as h***le goes.Got to watch warpage,gl***,crome ect,damage if you go this route.
     
  8. leadsleadolds
    Joined: Jun 7, 2004
    Posts: 1,817

    leadsleadolds
    Member

    I have some pretty bad surface rust on the front of my car. Ive been looking for someone to soda blast it, but it not to easy to find anyone that dose soda blasting anymore. If you dont want it to come back you need to get all the rust off first. Dont skimp when you buy primer its the base to your whole paint job thats if you want it to look good for a long time with paint you rally get what you pay for. Dont ever get Mako.
     
  9. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,642

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Another alternative.
    After acid washing. use a product called Zero rust.
    This stuff is waterproof, can be painted over later and I even added a clear to give alittle shine and help with the UV protection. Second year and the surface is holding up well.
     
  10. flt-blk
    Joined: Jun 25, 2002
    Posts: 4,941

    flt-blk
    Member
    from IL

    [ QUOTE ]
    I have some pretty bad surface rust on the front of
    my car. Ive been looking for someone to soda blast it, but
    it not to easy to find anyone that dose soda blasting
    anymore.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    There is a place called D-Durf in Grand Prarie off Great
    Southwestern that does Soda-Bead-Walnut shell, etc. I
    think they do mostly aircraft stuff.

    They are expensive though, I asked them about sand blasting
    my A frame and they wanted $100. Let me know if you can't find them and I will try to look them up for you.
    TZ
     
  11. 38Chevy454
    Joined: Oct 19, 2001
    Posts: 6,819

    38Chevy454
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I don't think soda blasting will completely remove the rust. It will get most of it, but it is not aggressive enough to get all the rust, especially down deep in the pits. Sandblast or acid dip is the only way i know that is ***ured to remove the rust.
     
  12. ratrod40428
    Joined: May 19, 2004
    Posts: 195

    ratrod40428
    Member

    i tried a wire wheel in a drill and it just scratched the old paint and rust and didnt even dig in.... i also tried to sand it down as much as i can then wire wheel it and that kinda worked but it didnt get down into the pitts... as far as sandblasting, i dont have a sand blaster, and i know that if i start blasting it, a few small holes will grow rapidly... if anyone in the santa cruz area has a sand blaster that i an use PM me...thanks, kevin
     
  13. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,150

    slammed
    Member

    A siphon feed sand blaster is very cheap(look for one at tool whole sale outlet's). It is nothing more than a trigger 'gun' that has a hose that is placed into bucket or even the bag of silica sand (Menard's 7-8$). Your air line will hook up to the gun. It will work,slower than reg. pressure-ized sandblaster.And it really dump's alot more sand. Lay some tarp down to re-cycle (stained of course) if you like. Soda,walnut,plastic media's are great.But they will not get after the rust like the other HAMB said.Silica dust is very nasty, wear cartridge mask here too. Water trap is a good idea.Sand will clog if any water is in line. Full face protection, heavy clothe's,and ear plug's may ease the h***le this stuff cause's. It get's evey-where,very messy. Shake/blow your clothe's good before they go into washer....it will eat the gut's out of them if not carefull.
     

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