EZ wiring lights prob.

i did not move it all all, i checked it and its on tight. it goes "crank crank crank, CLANK" and when it clanks it stops turning over and then fan bounces back to opposite way.

 

Just for the hell of it, remove the coil wire and see if it wheels over with no problem other than not starting.

 

first thing in the morning.

 

ok it started. It did the same thing but i held the key down and it started up. I turned it off and tried angain and its acting like the battery is dead. Cranks slow and then clicks. I checked the battery and its got 11.28 volts.

 

Voltage is low and thats not a proper way to test it. You have a lack of amperage going on as well. Like others said it's a battery issue. Have it load tested, and go from there. Sound like your at the end. It's been fun help'n out, time to move on.

 

i had the starter tested and it was bad, so im replacing it tomorrow. Could i have wired it incorectly to make it go bad even though it started and ran once?

 

HELP!!!!! I have fried two starters so far. Here is my wiring diagram.

 

Describe fried. Is the engine still rotating backwards after you let key go?

 

Also, was this a running truck before you started all this or any history to it.

 

the first starter tested bad and the second after i installed it, tried to start and just barely tried to turn over make the clank sound and then just clicks. I pulled it off and bech tested it and all it does is engauge but not spin.

 

Are you using the old solenoid on the replacement starter. Sounds like contact disk in the solenoid is bad. Did you have the battery load tested as stated before. The clicking is commom with low or dead battery.

 

Here is a thing I came across that might be your problem. Sold a bronco to someone for almost free. He's going thru starters like crazy. After troubleshooting the hell out of it, it turned out that the ground wire from the battery was completely not letting current thru. I have never personally seen this before, it kinda stumped me but it was the only thing not proven good. The casing looked fine and there was no discoloration, but it was just as non-conductive as a piece of plastic. If your battery cables are old, you might consider a little purchase of new cables.

So, without good battery cables, the battery can't charge because juice from the alternator isn't getting to the battery. The battery can't turn the starter well because there is just not enough current going thru the cables to get to the starter. Vicious cycle, can't pin down the problem.

 

Place the starter in a vise, Clamp it snug. Using jumper cables, Place the positive cable from your battery to the lower lug on the solenoid (the one that has the small bolt feeding the starter) . Making sure that it is not grounding snywhere. Tap the negitive cable on the vice. Your starter should spin. This is byp***ing the solenoid and will not "kick" the bendix (gear) out.

If your battery is hot, The starter should spin. If it does.. Solenoid problem..

 

timing is good, batterys is good and ive got a new starter again. It acts like the battery is dead now and is not blowing starters anymore. I left the alternator disconnected for now to see if thats the problem. The truck had a push busson start to byp*** the ign sw., could this all be due to a bad switch?

 

tried the push ****on start and same thing. I hate chevys.

 

Your battery no load voltage should be over 12 volts. Usually about 12.3. If it's under 12 volts without a load, when you use the starter the voltage will drop too low. If you can, connect a voltmeter to the battery so you can see the voltage while it cranks. Then connect to the battery terminal on the starter and the engine block to check actual voltage at the starter while cranking. If the voltage drops below 10.5 while cranking, your ignition system won't work properly.

 

i had the battery charged and check and was told its goog. I put a volt meter on the ign switch when i went to crank it and it would go down to 3.45 so whats causing that if the battery is good? Here is a recording of what it sounds like.

 

I posted on your other thread, what size batt cables do you have _ 3/8" dia? Another way to eliminate the battery problem temporarily, would be to add another in parallel...this aftermarket wiring harness seems to be making you take 3 steps backward!

 

timing

 

Well, im not sure on the cable size but the ground is doubled up and the positive it pretty large. Timing is great because the two times i did get it to run it was great, and prior to me changing the harness it was a daily driver.

So if i shim the starter would that help?

 

gap was too big for the gears on the starter, i shimmed the outside bolt to bring it out and now its all good.