What the hell did they give you for instructions... admit it, you tossed out the set that was in English.
Nope- I cut loose most of the zip ties to delete what isn't needed. that's where it all started for me...Most of the 21circuits weren't used as I have a bone stock truck so..... I goofed
park lights and brake lights work. How do I check/trace to figure out why turn signals don't work? Thanks in advance ,
The only application I can think of where 6 cylinder and V8 ignition switches are different is on '55-'59 Chevy and GMC trucks. The 6 cylinders had a pedal next to the accelerator ("foot feed" if you're an old man in Georgia), while the V8 trucks had the starter solenoid powered off the key switch. Don't know why they did that. The Chevy 6 cylinder cars had the starter solenoid powered off the key switch the same as on V8 cars. The last year Ford used a starter pedal was '36.
You've mixed/messed up the brake/turn power circuits. If you have a 'standard' type turn signal switch that switches the left/right brake lights for turns, you don't have input power to the switch connected right. There should be two inputs; one from the fuse panel to the brake light switch then to the brake light input on the switch. The other should come from the panel to the flasher, then from the flasher to turn input on the switch. If you only get power at the flasher when the brake lights are on, it's mis-connected. To identify the wires on the turn switch, look here... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/turn-signal-wiring-how-to.869492/
lt blue-lt ft dk blu-rt ft yell-flash white-brake switch purple-rr pink-lt rear should I trace back the flasher? no power there.
Ok after tracing back the wires I found : 1.no power to the flasher 2. flasher connector wired backwards. Used one of the "extra" not needed circuits to provide power& cut the "connector" and used female connectors.Now have turn signals....
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