Projects F1 pick up chassis, what would you do?

I have a 52 ford pick up in my shop. Original plan was to put it on an S10 chassis. Before I get too deep into this I'd like opinions on what to use.
First, what the owner wants out of the truck.

1. Ride quality, ease of driving. Owner has back issues. The truck has to ride nice, power steering, power disc brakes, and A/C are a must.

2. Truck must be able to haul 1000 lbs and tow once in a while.

3. Chevy small block power.

4. reasonable gearing (370 or so), w/posi

5. No air bags.

6. Mild lowering.

These are the owners requirements. He dosn't care how I get there, as long as the truck performs like he wants.
I'm perfectly happy with the S10 swap, with a better rear diff. But I'd be interested in other options. The original frame is useable with some repair.
While money is not unlimited the owner is willing to spend as needed to build a keeper. So what would you do?

 

Jaguar XJ6 both front and rear suspensions. It doesn't get any easier than this setup. There are step by step photos here on the hamb and it provides everything the owner wants.

If you don't like the look of the Jaguar rear end, go for the nascar/Chevy truck rear end setup.

 

If the frame is salvageable, just do a front end swap (MII, etc) or Camaro front clip, then a later 9" Ford rear. Getting the body mounts correct and aligned right if you change the whole chassis is not for the faint of heart. I've only watched a buddy do it and he invented all sorts of new cuss words. I think the Camaro or Nova front end would be perfect if you're planning to go with a SBC. Everything's already there for you. Just my .02

 

if he wants to tow, think big brakes. Anything can pull, it takes brakes to stop it!!!!

personally, I would keep the f100 frame. Its way more stout than the s10.

I dont think I would do a mustang II for this app. Hes already stated he wants to be able to tow,****ume it'll be way overloaded at least a few times!!

I'm not sure on the front suspension... off hand, I'm tempted to say 73-89 1/2 ton chevy. They bolt in. Lotsa lowering stuff available. You might need to narrow the crossmember and run a t-bird rack. Its been done and has proven to work well...

Big bearing 9in in the rear. since whe wants mild lowering, Id pick up a set of aftermarket replacement springs, lowered a couple inches.. Add bags to help with towing and carrying a load in the bed.

You cant beat the price on gm small block crate engines. The 383 version is a nice piece....

Throw an overdrive at it if you're gonna run 370's! He'll be much happier.

 

Good point about towing. You're right. The Chevy would be better for a truck that's going to be used as a truck.

 

ps... put a glide seat innit.. his back will thank you!!!

 

I wonder how an S10 frame would effect resale....
I'm not the least bit against them because around here its an easy way to put a rig back on the road that otherwise would be a parts vehicle...AND the chassis works well!
I just wonder about the resale though.

Considering the need for a "REAL truck" I think I'd look at an "El Polacko" Dakota frontend kit and whatever he recommends as a rearend to match. Truck parts with truck strength and a R&P steering + the original frame remains in its full length with no cut and clip...(although I like those too if done well!)

Man...I love those old F1's!!!!

 

In my opinion, there are only two viable choices. I would either use a Jag IFS and a '57-'72 Ford 1/2 ton 9'' rear. Or I'd use one of El Polacko's Dakota front crossmembers which uses all OEM Dakota parts and the previously mentioned Ford 9" rearend. No way would I use a S10 frame in this project, especially if the truck is going to be used for towing!
The original poster stated that the truck would be used for occasional towing. I'd be pretty leary using a Mustang II type suspension. I feel it would be too light duty. The Jag IFS or the Dakota are a lot heavier and were both designed to carry more frontal weight. In the rear, the rear suspension can be used by freshening up the components, rearching and removing leaves, OR replace the whole suspension with a kit from various companies. I'd recommend Chassis Engineering, I've used their kits with great results.
The '57-'72 Ford 9" rearends are nearly a direct bolt-in. The spring perches are the correct distance apart. Shock mounts will have to be fabricated and shims may have to be used to set pinion angle. Driveshaft length will have to be modified.