Technical F1 Pitman Arm question

I am trying to set up my F1 steering box in a 32 chassis with split wishbones. Currently the F1 pitman arm hits the drivers side wishbone as seen in this picture:

I would prefer not to bend the pitman if possible. What I had in mind was using a flat Pitman Arm (if one exists) that I can attach to the back side of the wishbone kind of like this picture shows:

A couple of questions; has anyone set up their pitman like I'm proposing? If you have, where did you find the pitman arm you used? and lastly, is there any downside to this idea? I realize that the taper on the pitman would have to been reversed to use in this manner. TIA
Tony

 

Any idea if a 1935-36 Ford pitman arm would work for this scenario?

 

I don’t think it’s possible to reverse the taper, if you did and then resplined it, I’d think it would be loose on the box splines, right?

Why do you not want to bend the arm?

 

This is what we used on the F1 box in my son-in-law’s Model A. We did heat & bend the pitman arm.

 

If you want to use the F-1 ball type ends; heat the arm up and twist it 180. If you want to use a regular tie rod ends on your drag link; use the earlier Ford arm and taper it half way from the inside.

 

Most Model A vendors sell replacement steering balls, cut the old one off, drill a hole and weld the new one on. I'm using a late 30's pitman arm on an F1 box and had to file groves in the indexing flats on the pitman arm so I could index it where I wanted it. Then you could weld a steering ball on it if you wanted to.

 

Arms from the mid 30"s to 48 from Ford cars will fit the F1 box. Some have built in off set toward the engine,some are straight. Keep an eye on ebay,and one with the offset will turn up. Different years come in different lengths too.

 

Thanks for the reply's. Budget 36 it's not that I don't want to bend the arm it's that I don't have the right equipment. I only have mapp gas and that barely heated up my foot pedals enough to bend. The metal on the pitman is twice as thick.

4ever18 did you place the 35/36 pitman arm on the engine side of the wishbone like I was thinking?

RichB the reason I was thinking of a 35/36 pitman arm is because it is flat and I could turn it around so the taper would be correct.

Model A Gomez that sounds like a good idea. I could just use a 35/36 pitman and weld a steering ball onto the drag link end.

It doesn't seem like anyone has a negative opinion about mounting the pitman to the engine side of the wishbone so I might proceed in that direction. Thanks very much for the advice.
Tony

 

One other thought. Vega steering boxes have the same size shaft,and spline so if your ok with a flat plate arm those come in several offsets,and you could heat,and bend as needed.

 

Irishsteve, that's good to hear, my next question was going to be whether the 35/36 pitman would mount to the F1 sector shaft.

 

Nothing wrong with the drag link on the inside. While this is a F-100 box, you get the idea.

 

I have a 35-36 pitman that I have put on a F1 box that im saving for a project.Its 7-1/2 inches overall length.The arm curves inward about 1-1/4 inch at the small end. The number on it is 21A-3590-8 followed by a round dot then 15. It should clear the radius rod,but that depends if you make a new flange ,and off set the box out ward very far.If you use the stock mounting flange you should be ok.

 

All passenger pitman arms from 32-48 and pickup up to 52 will fit the F-1 box. A stock 32 pitman has a tapered hole that points inward. Buy a new ball stud and it will bolt in. Or use a later style tie rod end and it will fit in too.

A 33-34 pitman has a ball forged into the arm, very similar to the F-1, but pointing inward.

Then in 35-48 they all had tapered holes again. Some in, some out. Some arms flat, some bent. Some longer than others too.

If you can find an arm with the correct shape, don't let which direction the taper points be a hindrance. You can taper that hole halfway from the other side and the new ball stud, or later style rod end, will fit just like the original did from the other side. I did it myself many times, on spindle arms and pitman arms. It takes a 7 degree taper, which is kinda expensive, but there might be a local guy who has one. Or mail it to me and I'll do it for you.

 

Here's an option I would appreciate some feedback on; if I move the wishbone ends further towards the center by attaching them to the underside of the X member I can get more than enough clearance to use my current F1 pitman arm. Here is a pic showing this option:

The picture shows the wishbone end clamped to the X member for demo purposes only. If I fab some brackets and keep the Caster to between 5°-7° should I be OK? I've checked and this position doesn't interfere with the pedals or exhaust path. Thanks, Tony

 

Is there enough space below the frame for up,and down movement with out the radius touching as the spring moves? In would be good as it gives more tire clearance in a tight turn.

 

I was going to suggest the 33-34 arm as mentioned above.

 

I think setting them inboard is fine. I've seen it suggested on other steering threads.

Are you sure it isn't time reconsider an oxy/acc setup? A few minutes with a rosebud tip and done.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. Irishsteve I will check to see that there is no interference through the wishbone's range of movement.

 

Great info, was wondering how are you going from ball at pitman to ball joint at hub? What drag link. I’ve going to have a simulare set up!

 

Several different ways we have done this. Always tried to end up with something adjustable.
Shortened an A or '32-'34 tie rod and used a ball stud on the steering arm.

Cut the steering box end off the drag link and turned the rod down to 5/8" and slid it into a chunk of '35 up tie rod cut to the right length.

Replaced the pitman arm '35 up arm and made a drag link out of a shortened '35 up tie rod or a piece of 7/8" DOM tube. Usually done this way as the balls on the original arms are normally worn out.