Technical F1 Sector Roller removal

I bought an F1 box and found the worm gear, and sector roller were really pitted. I bought a new Sector Roller but have not been able to remove the pin. I can't drill the head off because the material is really hard. I wanted to check with you guys before I take some repair action I'll regret. I have included a couple pictures. Upon reassembly, the manufacture says to tack weld the pin to the Sector Shaft. I would think the welding process would anneal the hardness of the pin. Has anyone replaced a sector roller on an F1 box? View attachment 4072897 View attachment 4072897 Thanks

 

How about a die grinder with a small round head burr to grind off the mushroomed head of the pin.

 

The pin is mushroomed on both ends so you can't just press it out. I use a small straight burr on my die grinder and grind around the circumference of the pin on one end. This removes the mushroom. Then press it out. When you weld the ends, keep most of the heat on the sector.
Be aware, the spacers that come with the new roller may be too thick.....you may be able to use the old ones or else machine them to the correct thickness.

Haha, I was typing as BJR answered

 

Getting the spacers to fit correctly is very important! Too tight won't work and too loose will leave you with a lot of slop in the wheel.

 

Thanks! Just like you guys said, I went around and around the OD of the mushroom on the pin. After a while I tapped it with a punch, and the pin began to move. I found that the new roller was .003 wider than the old roller, so I began sanding the face of the stock spacers. The roller is installed now, but is a touch tight. I think I may sand the spacers with 220 wet on a flat surface.
I'm 71 years old and have been building hot rods all my life. I have sworn several times that I was done with cars, but here I am again with a Model A high boy in build. All this started with a Craigslist garage sale, and a $45.00 32 K member, and a $25.00 set of 34 spindles. Oh Lucky me!!

 

I've got an F1 box for my A that feels real smooth but this is something that is good to know.

 

What about the rest of it? Is that a Chevy 11? project looks interesting

 

I didn't know Frontenac made heads for later Chevy fours?

 

After I purchased the K member, and spindles at a garage sale, I bought a Model A Chassis that had paperwork. I sold off the stock driveline, and bought this core Mercruiser motor. Chevy II engines are 153 cu in, and Mercruisers are 181. The Merc's are supposed to be 140 horse. They are otherwise the same motor. Years ago I disguised a Chevy motor with a repo Frontac valve cover, two Stromberg 81 carbs, and other vintage finned aluminum stuff. So this build will probably be like that. I have been influenced by the cars on HAMB, and what I have seen at the Dry Lakes. I may have quit racing, so I had to build one last hot rod. This will be a banger motor, Hurst front motor mount, 39 trans, 40 rear end, F1 steering, 34 spindles with early tie rod ends, stock (un-dropped) 34 front axle, and 35 wire wheels, and stock headlights, stock grill shell. I'll take some pictures of the valve cover, they fit ok dimensionally, but require a plate for the valve cover gaskets to locate on. I don't have a mill, so all my stuff is done with a saber saw, and files. I'll post some more pictures. Thanks for your help. Terry

 

Here's some pictures of the Frontnac Valve Cover. The valve cover by it's self doesn't have enough sealing surface to control oil leakage, so I add a 1/4 thick aluminum plate shaped to the inside of the valve cover that is about an inch wide. That plate gets welded to the valve cover, then surfaced for a gasket. The bottom plate locates on the Chevy head, and uses a stock Chevy valve cover gasket on the bottom, and a hand made paper gasket on the top. The hard part in all this is designing the plates to clear the valve springs, and also ability to remove, and assemble the valve cover. As I said before this was done with a Dewalt saber saw, and various files. Maybe I should buy a mill....

 

I would not weld the pin to the housing again. It would be near impossible to remove if wrong. I would weld on a washer and then weld the washer to the housing. It really only needs to be tacked. The housing is plenty strong.

 

I have an F1 steering box that I would like to replace the sector bearing - everything else is N.O.S.

How much of a spacing is enough when shiming the bearing .... or is it a case of what feels right?

 

Stovebolt, do you mean sector roller? I don't know if there is a measurement, but too tight for turning it with fingers is too much. Shouldn't just spin on it's own though.

 

The F1 steering box I had was packed full of chassis lube. Do you guys think gear lube or STP would be a better choice?

 

John Deere corn head grease is the preferred lube, recommended by most all the ol timers on the Fordbarn. I used it after I rebuilt mine and it seems to work fine.