Technical F1 steering box in 32 frame

First of all bear with me, I know the attached pic isn't 100% pertinent to my question but I included it to help illustrate my situation. I am getting ready to install a modified F1 (thanks NealinCA) steering box in my aftermarket boxed 32 frame. The body is a 1930 coupe. I have an 8BA with Reds Headers and am looking for the dimension from the front edge of the cowl panel to the centerline of the Pitman arm. I know that each situation will be slightly different but this information will help me determine where to start cutting the interior wall of the boxed frame. Thanks in advance, Tony

 

I can't help with a measurement other than if you'd like a measurement from my cowl end to the pitman center of my F1 in my A (stock frame). It would likely get you just as close.

However, you don't really need anyone else's measurements if you start inside where the steering wheel is going to be placed. That will give you the exact information you need.

 

If you go look at Wescotts (fiberglass body folks) they have a blueprint of the 32 frame and bolt holes

 

I sold this car, but it shows the reds headers install on the model a chassis, you can get a good idea of how the clearances are by looking at the middle exhaust port etc...

 

Thanks for the advice. I was thinking of using the Westcott measurements but figured getting a dimension from the cowl edge to the pitman would help place my steering column in the more accurate position.

 

There's got to be someone else who has built a Model A on a 32 frame.

 

I sell '32 frame prints FOMOCO on the HAMB for $50.50 + S/H to your zip code----NOT WESCOTTS.

 

Thanks Deuce Daddy but I don't see how that would help. I'm just trying to get a dimension from the front of the Cowl to the centerline of the Pitman arm on a 1932 Chassis that has had a Model A coupe mounted on it with an F1 steering box. I had assumed that this has been done countless times but I guess I'm breaking new ground.

 

Perhaps look up some build threads and message the owner/builder. Chances are likely better that way.

Is it that you want it in the original 32 frame location/position or you want it in the "perfect" position for an A on a 1932 chassis? Because, people have done both...

It seems like you are over-complicating this. Set the body where it needs to be. Rough-mock the steering box/column and go from there.

 

I would not go by any measurement during this step. Put it where it needs to be.

 

It's not paint by numbers/one size fits all.
Just as important as the frame mounting is how and where the column and wheel mount in side. This needs to be in a comfortable driving position for you and your body shape. I'm talking arms and legs. You need to have your seat, pedals, column and wheel all in play to mock and figure this out.
You don't want to be driving like a deformed chimpanzee just because of a steering box measurement.

 

I'm with @-Brent-. Get your steering wheel into postion and work forward from there. When you have the locatoin identified, double check that your header will clear the box before you start cutting.

Locating the box a little bit forward or back shouldn't have a significant impact on steering performance. It just means slightly lengthening or shortening the drag link.

But if you locate the box first only to then discover this puts your wheel is in the wrong place, you'll need to lengthen or shorten the shaft and mast (much harder), and might even need to egg out or re-drill the box mount holes to get the angle right.

 

Well, I guess I am the odd thinker here. I would use the stock 32 frame location, and then use the stock length 32 steering shaft and be done. Even though the 32 is longer wheelbase than the A, I doubt the dash is very far off from its original location. Like you said, its been done for decades, and with the limited resources a young fella would have had in the old days, thats probably how it would have been done. Its at least a starting point to investigate

 

But we're agreed it might be a slightly off, correct? I mean, this is a marriage of different year body and frame. Now add the fact that this is an F-1 box, which is unique in that the shaft comes out of the bottom, not the top, which changes the angle of shaft and wheel. Combine those two variables and you could find that the stock box location puts the wheel into a slightly odd position. When I converted to an F-1 box, I was surprized at the amount of angle change; I had to use a smaller steering wheel.

I say let the car tell you where the box should be. Get the wheel more or less where you want it, take a look at where this more or less puts the box, and then start adjusting until you're happy.

 

I guess I overcomplicated the question. The reason I wanted an approximate dimension from cowl front to pitman arm center line, from someone who has installed the same setup (Model A body, 32 frame, F1 steering box) was so I could have an idea how much of the inner boxed frame wall to remove when I pull the engine.

 

I have done 6 of these as I recall.

All were different. Different headers, different engine setback, different steering column angle, different steering wheel size, different reach, etc etc.

For all I used a frame kickout that incorporated the proper box mounting angle for the flange. This also provided about an inch extra room for headers.

Like others have said, start from the steering wheel angle and reach. Mock it up with the seat you are going to use so you get it right. Sit in the mockup long enough to decide that it will be comfortable with plenty of elbow and shifting room.

 

F1 Box modified by @NealinCA . I used one of his 4 hole mount plates and when the box was set to the angle I wanted, it was welded into place.

That's something I don't think anyone mentioned, it's pretty much a given that the box will need modification in a A to 32+ hot rod.

Here's my info, just again, realize what works in this car or anyone else's, might not be best for yours.

I measured from the A cowl end, not firewall.



From the cowl edge to the center it's nearly 8-3/4"



The angle of the column is about 43*. First time I ever checked that. We just put it where it felt best.



I reinforced the outside of the frame to compensate for removing the boxing plate.



The boxing plate was angled in so that dirt/debris/critters couldn't get behind the plates. Plus, it looks better to me.



Hope that helps.

 

As far as how much to remove. There are guys that cut holes for the box to fit that were the bare minimum (see the hot rod article online) and the way I did it leaves some space to work with.

Personal choice.

 

Awesome Brent, that's exactly the information I was looking for and more.
Thanks again, Tony