Hi HAMBers, Recently my "running" truck failed me. It wouldn't hold idle without holding my foot on the gas. I popped the hood and noticed a healthy fuel leak from the carb. I pulled the carb off and noticed it was rebuilt (it had fresh gaskets), but it looked pretty rough (pitted and gouged) with a few welds here and there. I was debating just getting a new(er) 2 barrel new carb, something reliable. I don't know the make of the carb that came off the engine, maybe someone can identify it for me from the pics, so I don't know if it's worth rebuilding. I was thinking it my be a Holley 2210 but I cant seem to find any numbers on it. Can anyone suggest a good set up for my purpose? Someone suggested getting an AFB for around $150 that would bolt on and would be a good reliable carb. The only problem is I am not finding them for that price, just the Edelbrock version for around $300 with 500CFM which sounds a bit much for a 272. How much CFM should I run on such a setup? From my preliminary search it is difficult to find carbs sub 500 CFM and searches on CL produce 600 and up. Would it be worth getting a new manifold to accommodate a four barrel, something like the ECZ-9425-B? Seems like those Carbs are a bit easier to find, especially at better prices due to the supply. Thanks for your help!
Your carb appears to be a Motorcraft 2100. They are a good carb. Perhaps your best choice would be to get another one. There were plenty of Fords built in the 60's and 70's which used them. I would suggest one from a 289 from the 60's. That should be a good match for your 272.
Thanks for the advice Fritz, you hit that ID spot on. I might as well give a rebuilt kit a shot before spending money on a new Motorcraft 2100. I'll save a few bucks, at least for now, and get to hone my carburetor polishing Does anybody else have any input on something they have used and I could keep an eye out for at a swap meet or ebay? Thanks again
2100s are great but you may have to build it several times to get it right. By build I mean using one kit, on and off, disassemble, clean,****emble and be prepared to do that over and over until it's right. If you are lucky and real thorough with your cleaning you may only have to do it once. A compressor is a must to blow the passages clear, as is the carb dip. For pretty much bolt and go I recommend the Holley 2300 in 500cfm. I used a 2300 300cfm on a 292 and it ran and idled perfect but it did not have the**** accelerating and on the top like the 2100.
Yep if your tank and lines are not clean any carb work up to and including replacement is a waste of money. You could have a line of filters from the tank to the carburetor and you would still get trash in it. Dirty + tank = stranded
I****ume the tank is pretty filthy. I plan on pulling it and getting it cleaned as well as installing an inline fuel filter. When I got the truck it didn't have a fuel filter and I doubt the tank was taken care of. Do you guys suggest sending the tank out to get cleaned or attempting to do it myself? I see many products available for doing it yourself (eastwood, POR15 seems to have the best reviews), and all sorts of methods involving putting something in the tank and shaking. I also read about the sealers eventually coming off and clogging up the fuel lines. Does anybody know a shop in the SF Bay Area that will clean up a gas tank?
There is is only two cures for a OE tank. Find a truly clean pristine original tank, these are hard to find. The best option is to buy a reproduction. I was going to get into detail, but since polar solvents that draw water are now in gasoline they clean the hydrocarbon sludge coating out of a old tank. If you were able to split the tank, you would find removing that sludge near impossible with any type of power or hand tool at your disposal. How is a handful of tempered class, rock or chains after a 30 minute shake going to do it? You might as well use magic beans. Thing is, this worked OK 30 years ago to knock out the loose stuff. Now the new gas breaks down and turns loose that stuff that that the shake method leaves behind. Acid washes eventually promote rust, even under to the new zip bang coatings. A shop will clean and coat a tank but this service is at least half the price as a new tank. And it will fail eventually especially with the new gas. The bottom line is there is no really good cure for a rusty fuel tank. Repo tanks are available for that Ford. Ironically they run about the same price as a new carb.
"How is a handful of tempered class, rock or chains after a 30 minute shake going to do it? You might as well use magic beans." hahahah - greatest thing I heard in a while. I was kinda thinking the same thing but thought Id give it the benefit of the doubt. The POR15 seems to be the best option but at around $80 it seems a little pricey for the possibility of failure (either the product or me not following the directions), I was definitely leaning toward the midfifty $245 tank just to be sure... as much as that price makes me cringe. Thanks guys
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