Couple decades ago a buddy had a really nice bagged S10. One trip to Little Rock it has to sit on the side of the highway a few days till he could fix it because he blew a line and no one could tow it. Luckily also meant no one could steal the then high end 20" wheels because they were so far up in the wheel wells. That's when I decided I preferred static lol
Here's some pics of a narrowed cv that I did. I think the number was 4.625". That would require a complete redo of the front end. I know that Fatman did the narrow a arms but is no more. I haven't looked so see what there is available now.
what did you do for a rack??? I got a sids for my 51...still gotta install it..... probley gonna ride like a ahhhhh errr ahhh 51 pick up...I'm cool with that...
my 56 has a speedway... it has too much camber, don't know if they are all that way, or mine just settled..seems like they should have put a crown in the tube like a trailer axel????
my 64 is still stock with a coulpe leafs out... it has a 460 so quite a bit heaver i would think...either going a sids or speedway...soon...lol
I drove this truck today to deliver it...I guess the EFI and all the other stuff is cool for some... but in no way, not even close does it compare to my coyote powered 2025 F150...and the suspension... all that work and you still have to figure out how to lower it???... I didn't really go down real ruff roads...but all my other truck ride as good... or close... and who know what it will do lowered...
thanks for posting,... non of my trucks are twin I beam though... can't help but think that there's got to be a better way...Imo... a beefed up mustang ll design would be the ticket... with a low set up crossmember... the biggest problem I see with these trucks is the when where and why...most don't wanna pull the front clip and motor to lower the truck a few inches... all this needs to done at the start of the build not the last thing, so lot of hokey stuff gets done... the drop axel on these heavy trucks is not a betterment...putting a front suspension that 4'' too wide and the cross member hanging too is not either...
so still no love from the bee hive here... Funny, I try to help every body I can here, but the pay back seems to be nothing.. so I just keep try'n to go forward... and as said... there's got to be a better way...crown vic???? I scratched that idea quick....it's just too wide IMHO...so not gonna do it...Mustang ll... seems to be too narrow... by about the same as the CV is too wide.. but... I don't know if the mustang ll kits have a wider track??? and the ones for sale don't tell you the track MS to MS.... I know people here are doing this swap, and there's an up dated idea one would think... I remember doing this some 40 or so years ago... got the front all welded up and tires on....had to do it over because the tire didn't fit the wheel well any more and had to move that and they were tucked in too far..... so did they over come this with a wider cross member??? so still on the table the un answered question... whats the best way to do a f100 in todays world
Southern Rods bought the FatMan designs. Just saw a post this weekend that they had the shortened control arms for Crown Vic in stock. https://www.southernrods.com/fatman...ictoria-narrowed-control-arms---full-set.html
If I had to have ifs on these trucks I would do the xj6 jag front swap. You can still find them with a little searching. Track width is the same and they work well. Jag xj6 is heavier than 56 f100.
Ch***is Parts Online from f book sells a narrowed k member for the vic unit. Pricey, but very.nice Hope this helps a little John
thanks for posting,..I seem to get some what on a track....then wake up the next day and back to zero... on the 51, I wanna stay era correct as it's still flathead and all OG....I have the sids and disc brake front end and all I have to now do is bolt it in..every thing is there and ready ... un hook the axel complete from the shackles and bolt the new one in.... I'll have to deal with the proportioning valve for the disc...
the 59....I think it's best to just get a speed way axel... that gets me another 2.5'' drop.... which would be right where I wanna be..... the 59 has power steering and it's cross steer... so hopefull that the tie rod will work...drop tie rod ends or blocks???? ... now the problem is getting some one to do it.... I personally can't even change a tire,... getting old ****s...
the 63 is stock beam axel with disc brakes...but no power steering.. I have to get real frugal (cheep) when doing stuff.... I have 30 plus cars I'm working on...so today I'm thinking put a drop axel in it and call it a day.. I have a new truck to drive that I pull my car trailer with... so when I get tired of driving these beaters I can drive it... I've all ways thought that the 57- 63 used the same axel??? but every where I look on line it says 57- 60 is the same ????? and 61-63 is different ???? the 63 has a fresh 460... so weight on the front suspension might be an issue, that and the oil pan....??? I think 64 changed to twin I beam>?? thats another one I'm not sure.... So anyway.... still looking at all the different ideas and ways to get this done..
Jaguar. Forged upper and lower control arms. Super easy to rebuild at home. My truck weighs 3600 lbs with me in it. Jag XJ6 is well over 4000 lbs, I had an 83 for a daily years ago when I had a weak moment. I buy parts direct from England shipped overnight every day from the U.K. Cheap too, and they have everything available you could imagine. The better steering racks are 2003 to 2006, but they are all directly mounted to the crossmember so you couldn't screw up the bump steer if you tried to. Steering rack is rear steer as well, just like God and Nascar intended. Chevy 4 3/4 bolt pattern wheels, and the track width is within half an inch of the stock F100. I moved my axle centreline ahead 1 1/4 inches so it doesn't look like I'm running over the front wheels. It's running 15 x 7 front wheels and 15 x 8 1/2 rears. I really don't understand why people even consider using that hideous crown vic setup. Sorry.
not saying this is the best or right way but is what I done. used the front frame motor and trans from a 1987 Lincoln town car. it was narrower than the stock axle. think ford and mercury are the same just happened to find a low mile town car. truck sets pretty low rides good except the rear bottoms sometimes even with a c notch especially with weight in it. the frame is not very pretty were I put the front part of the frame back on with the core support but works. photo from this summer part of an 800 mile round trip
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