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Factory Y-block dual four intake too much???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 31pickemup, Dec 11, 2012.

  1. Y8er
    Joined: Aug 14, 2011
    Posts: 68

    Y8er
    Member
    from TX

     

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  2. Nope but while I like the little T Kettle carbs you may want to change them out for a later design.

    Anyway totally streetable if you tune the engine properly.
     
  3. Y8er
    Joined: Aug 14, 2011
    Posts: 68

    Y8er
    Member
    from TX

    Nice fuel lines that look stock! I've been working on something similar, but I'm using a "garbage can" E-Code Filter.
     
  4. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 3,091

    RmK57
    Member

    The Edelbrock #257 may be a cheaper alternative. An original ford 2x4 intake can be pretty costly.
     
    Stllrng. likes this.
  5. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 16,999

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Y8er. I use the factory Purolator air cleaner that was part of the hi- performance kit offered as an over the parts counter for law enforcement you can see it in the video. I see you have 56 Merc WCFB's. They only work with the Loadmatic distributor and I don't think a fix has been made for that model yet. Ted Eaton has a revision to use the Holley 4000's with a standard vacuum advance. Looks good.
     
  6. miker98038
    Joined: Jan 24, 2011
    Posts: 1,569

    miker98038
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  7. mickeyc
    Joined: Jul 8, 2008
    Posts: 1,440

    mickeyc
    Member

    Were the factory 2x4 units aluminum or cast iron?
    Have you obtained a manifold yet? If you are in need of
    one I may have what you need. Mine is an Edelbrock
    which is aluminum.
     
  8. Mark T
    Joined: Feb 19, 2007
    Posts: 2,171

    Mark T
    Member

    Years ago I bought a cable operated manual choke adapter that looked similar to the ones pictured, the cable connected directly to the little bracket on the side of the carb.

    It looks like they are still available from Dorman/Help, part number
    55101
     
  9. Y8er
    Joined: Aug 14, 2011
    Posts: 68

    Y8er
    Member
    from TX

    THANKS, MARK T!!!
     
  10. Y8er
    Joined: Aug 14, 2011
    Posts: 68

    Y8er
    Member
    from TX

    So, I can't use a '57 tach-drive distributor with centrifugal advance? I thought the carb vacuum operated the distributor, not the other way around? I had talked awhile back about using these in tandem on the ECG-D and he told me they'd work.
     
  11. Stllrng.
    Joined: Aug 17, 2005
    Posts: 404

    Stllrng.
    Member

    Works great on my 292
     

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    loudbang, jimmy six and mgtstumpy like this.
  12. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 16,999

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Always glad to see another Y with dual quads, got 5 years run time in my 56 now. Ford-O has been changed to a Cruise-O and it has an 8.8 Explorer rear end and front disc brakes. I now run 2 different air cleaners systems both with a hose from the oil fill to the air filter. No PCV system yet. 98497220-251A-47BD-8A06-C882C022AC43.jpeg image.jpeg
     
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  13. Y8er
    Joined: Aug 14, 2011
    Posts: 68

    Y8er
    Member
    from TX

    Glad to hear the update! Looking GOOD! Here is my latest Dual Quad setup.
    20200226_002954.jpg 20200406_004502.jpg
     
  14. ampsbad41
    Joined: Jun 7, 2009
    Posts: 20

    ampsbad41
    Member
    from Texas

    I know this is a very old post but what cams are you running to run dual quads ? I acquired a after market dual quad manifold in a trade so thinking about building a motor to put it on I have 3 y blocks
     
  15. miker98038
    Joined: Jan 24, 2011
    Posts: 1,569

    miker98038
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The factory quads didn’t use a wild cam. A little research will turn up the E code cam, and speculation about the F code cam. I’m not sure anyone knows for sure, or if all were the same.

    Go toTed Eaton’s site https://www.eatonbalancing.com/ and poke around a bit. You’ll find the 2x4 tests. And the specs on his 312 dyno engine. Good info. There’s also some camshaft discussions.

    John Mummert’s site lists the cam grinds he has available, with rpm recommendations. I’ve had 3 of his cams. I found his recommendations to be conservative, but maybe I’m more more willing to live with a higher idle. And all mine are stick shifts with fairly short gears. http://www.ford-y-block.com/

    But Isky and others list cams. Several things to be aware of, the depth of the oil grove, and whether the cam is ground on the right block angle. Eaton covers some of that.

    If you’re going to well ported heads, strokers, or aluminum heads, it changes things. But for a good street motor you won’t need to get too radical. The bore/stroke of the y favors good torque. Not that you can’t build a higher rpm motor, but they get even pricier than my 340 cid F code.
     
  16. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 16,999

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Mine is the stock 1956 292 4 barrel cam. Think 245 hp 283. Which was a 220 hp with the dual quad option. I run progressive linkage the same as the 245-270 hp Chevrolet’s. Been on close to 9 yrs now. I have had the heads off to clean up the valves and lap. Installed positive seals as I have the tooling. Runs way better. If your standing beside my car with it running you can’t hear it or even know if its running, Pertronics II was added before the 2-4’s. Same plugs, always spotless. I’ve been using 1oz of an additive in each refill for 13 yrs.. currently K-100. California gas….with WCFB’s and their small venturii’s it jumps with a crack of the throttle even with 2.74 read gears. 17 mpg on the highway and will top 100 with ease when I kick it in the*****.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2025
    warbird1, jnaki and loudbang like this.

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