Well, as long as we are also talking about trans swaps here, I guess I'll throw some pictures up of this. H.A.M.B.er JOHN EVANS and I whipped this up a couple of summers ago for the Ranchero project that got interupted by the wagon. (Good story, but I've told it on one of the other threads before) This is an adaptor to put a Borg Warner T-50 behind a 144-200 six. Since that trans has the same attributes as other Chevy transmissions, any of them will bolt in place including the S-10 T-5. As far as I know, this particular adpter isn't available commercially being for the later '67 and later bell housing, but John has the bsic patterns and drwings we did to replicate it. This trans will end up in the wagon here this next month, 'cause 3.50 gears and Phoenix's 75 mph local freeway speeds are driving me nuts!!!
Yup, and driving in rush-hour traffic, with a non-synchronized first-gear is more of a challenge that I want to keep putting up with.
Where is a good place to start with the jets in a Weber 32/36. I've got the carb, was on a off topic car that is no more. I've got a stock 170 and plan on changing the distributor as well.
I'm hoping for this answer myself, as my 32/36 is on the bench, current jets, and previous application, unknown. I can certainly work-it-out, but a jumping-off point would be good to know.
Well, here is where I'm at on my DGV: Idle jets - Primary 55, Secondary 50 Mains - Primary 155 Secondary 150 Air corrector - Primary 165, Secondary 160. This kinda goes against the grain of what Weber has always recommended which is to jet the secondary side a bit heavier than the primary. It has always worked for me very well though. My engine is a basically stock 200 with a Dura Spark II and a post '69 exhaust manifold.
Thanks! That gives me a place to start with the carb. For now I'm going to run a point distributor, then swap in a Petronix. Just need the adaptor for the carb and to figure out the linkage, I'm running an auto trans right now.
As I said earlier in this thread and gimpyshotrod shop said as well, if you have the stock Load-O- matic distributor, take it out and throw it as far as you can. Get a '68 and later distributor witha mechanical and vacuum advance THEN do a Pertronix. Or, in my opinion grab a Dura Spark II unit from any '74 and later 200 or 250 and go. Don't waste your time on the stock distributor. You won't believe how much better the car runs just with that one simple upgrade. I used the Classic Inlines Weber adaptor because it has a tapered insert that makes air/ fuel flow much happier. For linkage I took a piece of 3/16" cold rolled rod stock and threaded both ends for 10-32, bought two small female heim ends and that was it. I see all these guys making it much harder on them selves on the Falcon boards and I have to wonder "why"?
There is virtually no way that I could possibly emphasize enough the dramatic improvement that a modern ignition system, with a distributor that has both mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms, makes over even a perfectly functioning Load-O-Matic distributor. Whatever flavor you choose, you will be stunned as to the change it makes. I am one of the most difficult people to impress, that you will ever meet, and I was shocked (figuratively).
He speaks the truth. I found a '60s style Mallory dual point for my friend's 200 at a swap meet, and it made the engine feel like it gained 25-30 hp just from having some real advance.
I DO want to swap out my Load-O-Matic distrtibutor, but am a bit confused: I understand my oil pump drive is the 1/4" hex, and the later is 5/16. Sooo, if I swap my distributor out for a later full-advance unit, will I also have to swap the oil pump, or does someone make an adaptor drive hex?? Thanks, Cosmo. P.S. In stock condition (heavily advanced) mine with L-O-Matic does run pretty good, but I know that a centrifugal advance is necessary.
if you have a 1/4 shaft, yes. But the 35.00 oil pump and the afternoon on your back will be far beyond just worth it! As both gimpyshotrods and HEATHEN said above it's the difference of day and night. I had my 200 clucking along just fine about twenty years ago with a matched Load-O-crapic and spark controled carb on my '62. Speedway at that time had several Mallory "double life" centrifical distributors as old stock they sent a special flyer out on, so I bought one... Holy crap! it was the difference of day and night, Hamlet and omlette, yin and yang! It actually was the start of my really understanding how important spark timing and advance curves were to an internal combustion engine. Do it, it's worth it!!
If you don't want to drop the pan, and swap the drive and pump, the only choice that I have found for the 1/4" drive (which I am running) is the Davis Unified Ignition HEI unit. The part number for that is: 39820-144BK Summit has it, for the lowest price I could find, $289.95 +handling. It IS a special order item, so there will be a short delay: http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=39820-144BK&dds=1
If you have a distributor with a 5/16 receiver and an oil pump with a 1/4 inch drive. You could machine one end of a 5/16 hex to 1/4 to fit both.
Don't forget, when budgeting, with any new-style distributor (DSII/DUI), you will also need new spark plug wires, as the cap-end is different. You should also change the plugs, too.
I've got a later model points distributor that I'm going to use, I was thinking about putting the Petronics in that. Will there be an issue with the Autolite carb if I plug the vacum port till I get the adaptor for my Weber carb? I'll be using the newer distributor ported to the intake.
You wouldn't want to port the newer distrubtor to manifold vacuum. Just put a cap on the vacuum at the carb and a cap on the vacuum advance at the distributor to keep the nasties out until you're set with the Weber adaptor. Vacuum advance works with ported vacuum drawn from above the carbs butterfies, manifold vacuum from below. Manifold vacuum is hight at idle and gone at upper RPMs, ported vacuum is low at idle and high at upper RPMs.
Since I still have the old Holley (with a busted accelerator pump arm) still on the engine, until tomorrow, and a DUI distributor, I am running the vacuum advance to the manifold. It does seem to work pretty well. When the Weber goes on, I will have access to both, so I can compare the performance difference going to ported. I like data. Looking forward to having an accelerator pump again. Hill starts are tricky. I, of course, clipped the line off at the SCV port, and capped it.
I am keeping this thread. Kool shit. Yes Chip I am still working on the '62 moor door. Put it on the back burner for a while. Cad engine in the '48 Ford overheated and cracked a head, installing power steering in the Chev. powered '48 Ply. Planning on getting back to the Falcon in a month or two. Keep posting I'm getting an education. Gary
Just a note: Another distributor to look for is one made by DC Ignition, was a division of Mr Gasket, Labeled Street Spark was purchased in the mid seventys, don't think they were made for very long, I might have the only one..dual point centrifical advance only..Very good advance curve/rate, first 500 or so rpm it advances fast [similates vac adv, makes good off idle throttle response] and slows a bit for the next 1000 [up to about 2500] or so and then speeds up to reach full advance by 3000..I am using a 280° cam and 360 cfm 2v Holley [Center carb from FE tri-power]...
Good looking ride and rides don't have to be Bad and Scary, there's something to be said about being just something that makes you happy when you see it in the driveway/parking lot that you're sure will get you wherever you want to go.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=748185 This was my solution to use a mech and vac advance distributor on a '53 215". '52 to '54 used a slot and tang drive. Rich has the solution for the 1/4" to 5/16" problem. You will not need to swap the oil pump with the hex shaft adaptor.
Speaking of carbs, what are your thoughts on upgrading the auto lite 1100? I know the mustang folks like to send it off and have it upgraded at pony performance. Just thought I'd get some perspective. Thanks!
I'm a huge fan of the Weber 32/36 on an adaptor. The stock carbs on these are almost always loose in the throttle plate bores and just don't seem to work as well as that simple mod. The 32/36 is a nice small primary with a larger progressive secondary that really helps air/fuel flow when you boot it. Plus, the whole deal can be much cheaper than a worked 1100.
DMSA is one I'm not familar with, but the venturi size is just about right on. How about a picture from a couple differnt angles like the say the base plate and side so I can see how it's configured?
I don't see any reason why that won't work! Get the adaptor from Classic Inlines, their is the best I've found. You are on your aown as far as jetting, but you might check out my post from earlier in this tread for an idea of where to go jetting.
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