Features Falcons done right?

Different note, I was looking for some upper a arms that will help with handling, specifically the camber as the suspension is compressed. I was looking at some from global west, but they said it only worked for the 62-63 models, and not the 60-61 (I have a 60). Does anyone know if there is any difference in the geometry, as I thought they where the same! Is there is any products made for the 60-61 to help with the camber?

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You are right about going to big on the carb. I had a 600 cfm and when I switched to the 500 cfm that is on there now I got better throttle response. Do not have an extra carb that I can bolt on there, I do have a couple of Holleys but they are not road worthy, been sitting too long.

I added an additional ground from the neg battery post to the body.
Going to check my voltage on the coil next and see what it reads. It was put on there a year ago, along with the new plug wires and distributor but you never know. Has maybe 3-4 hours run time on it total. I thought the original wiring harness might have had a short or cracked wire somewhere so I replaced that as well.

I don't know if you watched my video but if you pay close attention to the motor it shakes ever so slightly at idle, like a miss. The reason I was focusing on the carb was due to the soot that entered into it from the tank due to the flood. But I have cleaned about all that I can in the carb, the only thing I have not replaced is the fuel pump. Got one of those new too sitting on the shelf but I do not know if that would cause it. The plugs were fouled when I pulled them on Friday but I have since replaced. Reset my timing and made sure I am on TDC and re-stabbed the distributor multiple times to ensure I am spot on with the rotor.

-Mark

 

Something with the spark might make sense, especially with it being in a flood.

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Just a little tidbit of potentially useful info. The Edelbrock 500 cfm and 600 cfm are exactly the same except for the booster venturis and the jetting. In other words, they are convertible.

 

Hey guys,
Finished installing a rear axle in my C10 today and decided to do a little more troubleshooting, it's backfiring now more often through the exhaust on both sides and seems to be alternating between the two. Each time I pulled the distributor cap and checked the rotor and it was always pointing to the number 6 wire. Harmonic balancer is spot on TDC.
This is after re-stabbing the distributor and making sure it was dead on the number 1 plug and then removing my #1 spark plug and making sure that it was all the way up. I am hoping it's not related to the cam shaft gear that spins the distributor or something.
Guess I might drain the oil and drop the pan to have a look at things from underneath unless there is another way to fish it out from the top, any suggestions...?

-Mark

 

Would it be possible it has an h.o. cam? If I remember right those had a different firing order.

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No sir I do not think it does. My Dad rebuilt this engine for a friend of mine over 25 years ago. He had it in a 64 Fairlane and literally never put no miles on it. I'm talking less than 100 miles. He ended up just letting the car sit and got tired of moving it from place to place so he gave me the whole car about 10 years ago. I pulled the motor and put it in my Falcon.
My Dad is older now and when I tried asking him details about the build like cam size and duration he does not remember, he just tells me that it was built to 302 specs but it's a 260. I'm thinking he means like torques specs, heads don't flow very well they have been milled and the cam did have a decent sound to it.
I tore it down last night, pulled the pan and timing chain cover but the dots are lined up. I will get out there a little later today and take some more pics. I want to inspect everything in the daylight and not a droplight. I was a little pissed to say the least but I figure I can finally get the mystery solved if I pull the cam but I will wait and see. I kinda hate to tear it down that far and not need to but I will if the cam gear is chewed.
Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.

-Mark

 

As Right As It Gets...260/4 Speed..

 

Would you be able to post the whole article?

 

Here We Go...(1)...

 

Number 2....

 

Number 3....

 

This Is Where It Came From...Enjoy...

 

Wow, a Holley 4160 4-bbl carb without the vacuum secondary pod... I wonder how that one works...????.....

 

Hey muncie, I just thought of this, what if the float is sticking in the bowl? It would make sense why it's getting so rich and randomly doing it.

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It is not a 4160, it predates the 4160. That is a mechanical secondary carburetor, built for Ford.

 

Yeah someone else mentioned that on here a while back. Anyway they said to give the carb a whack every now & then on the side near the bowl with the handle of a hammer and the issue might go away. I tried that and it never worked so I know it couldn't have been the float(s) getting stuck. Check out what I noticed when I began to tear the engine down on Wednesday night, I climbed up under to take a look at everything and noticed the pistons skirts looked like this.
-Mark

 

That does look very much like intentionally clearanced skirts.

I wonder if the pistons were not equalized for weight.

 

Yes has me wondering the same. I've been asking around and there is a possibility that maybe the 260 has been stroked and fitted with 302 crank and pistons. I'm wondering if there is a way to identify the crank by stamped markings?

-Mark

 

There must be a way.

You can always rotate the engine, and measure the stroke, via piston movement.

 

Thanks @LOU WELLS

 

I did some research and found an article with some nice information. I checked an extra crank I had in the garage that came out of a 289 and the marking matches the block. I put the pan back on the 260 with only a couple of bolts finger tight just to keep any elements or moisture from getting in there. I will pull it back off tomorrow and check the stamping on the crank. It should read either 1M to identify the crank as either 221/260/289 or 2M for the 302 crank. That should take some of the guess work out.
-Mark

 

Any insight?

 

Well I had a little time yesterday so I pulled the pan back off and turned the engine by hand to get a look at the first counter weight by the keyway. It's stamped 1M so it's a 260/289 crank and not the 2M for the 302 so I am really wondering how in the heck did they balance this engine if they removed material from the skirts on the pistons to clear the crank?

-Mark

 

It is possible to do this, and still equalize the weight, but it requires effort.

 

221/260/289 use the same rod, same stroke crank and all is interchangeable except for pistons/rings. Bores are 3.50, 3.80, 4.00. If bore is 4.00 then has to be a 289. No reason to put a 50z flywheel or damper that I can think of. Best I can come up with is they used a 260 rods and crank [lighter?] and tried to get the piston weight to match the 260 pistons. Thats all I got.

 

I noticed a small area on one of the weights that had a small area machined out. I don't know how I feel about the hack job on the skirts, personally I don't like the aesthetic look of it and it would have to be an engine combo that I would really want to use/have to do that. And if I did I would have made it look more presentable. Going to have a conversation about this with my Dad when given the chance. To me it looks like a hack job. Anyway I got plans to yank the motor out. That 351W I have is still staring at me lol.

-Mark