Features Falcons done right?

The four piston disc brake setup was standard on the GT package, available with any v8 engine in the 65 Mustang ' and available as a stand alone option on any v8 without the GT package.

We’re getting a little off topic mentioning the “M” word, though.

 

How's about them Lions???....

 

So, you were born in '69? That would explain why you've never seen one with front discs. They weren't a real common option but they did exist. Ford offered them more widely in '67 (maybe trying to dump inventory?) before switching to single piston. But service parts for them almost completely dried up by the late '70s for whatever reason, and the owners that actually drove the cars were forced to either convert to drums or switch to a newer disc set-up which didn't have a sterling reputation either (the sliding caliper version wasn't in the yards in any great numbers yet). I had a '67 Cougar and all I could find at the time was a caliper seal kit and the master cylinder. No caliper pistons, and the real pisser was no rotors. The rotors were the deal-breaker; I managed to get mine turned to below minimum spec one last time but most places wouldn't do it, leaving most owners with little choice. Or attempt to find good used rotors, but the restorers (mostly the Shelby guys) had snatched most of them up by then and paying outrageous prices for them. I looked into this, but at $250 per rotor with the only guarantee was that it would meet minimum thickness spec, I passed. In any case, it would turn into a pretty expensive brake job, converting to drums was the cheap way out.

Enter Stainless Steel Brakes. Seeing the market prices these guys were paying for parts, they stepped into the void in the early '80s IIRC and started reproducing them. Originally the kit was over $1K, and separate replacement parts weren't available. Still too much money for the daily driver crowd, but enough traffic to keep them at it. Plus they were a easy bolt-on conversion that didn't require a spindle change in most cases, so got traction with the non-Mustang crowd. Eventually they offered separate parts, although they were still more expensive than the post-'67 bits.

Apparently they have sold enough of them that parts are now available from 'regular' parts houses. The calipers are still relatively expensive though; Rock auto lists them (for the '65) for between $80 and $90, not including the $40 to $65 core charge. Rotors are now $25-$30 each, a far cry from $250.

 

Kelsey Hayes disc brakes were optional on 65 & 66 mustangs. I’ve had two 66 mustangs with them. There are also vendors who sell reproduction KH brakes for mustangs and I have also done this simple conversion myself, which re-uses the drum spindles.






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Happy new year! Can't wait to start building up my little Falcon! Though, I think the guy today was the third one to call it a Fairlane... [emoji28]

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So my engine is starting to make some noise on top and I'm concerned that the guy built it as carelessly as the rest of the car. I've been looking into getting a roller 302 from an explorer, but I keep getting the itch to see if a 351 would fit in there. Afterall, it should be about the same price to refresh either engine.... So that got me looking and I've seen some people measure the clearance from the shock tower to the inside of the springs, and notch them in order to clear the headers. I figured this with coilovers might work better if anything as well. Has anyone done this? Ik there was someone else on here before looking to swap a 351 in here, but at the time I'd only seen people do it with mustang 2 subframes, now this is somewhat feasible with stock stuff

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Here's what I'm talking about, the latter picture was done with an ls swap, but the notching is what I'm looking at

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Does anyone have pictures of a 60-63 with a mini tub? I've been searching for a couple days now and all the pages I read link to a forum that's shut down now. Im picking up a 62-63 4 door falcon to replace my bronco and I'm getting my parts list together for it. My main concern being fatter rear tires to tame my engine I'm pulling from my bronco.

 

It's a very tough install... I've seen several 351W swaps into early Falcons/Comets with the OEM-style suspension and I would hesitate to call any of them successful. The main obstacle is the upper control arm mounting bolts; those are right where you want to run exhaust. Even doing the 'Shelby Drop' doesn't quite get them out of the way. Custom headers will be a requirement and spark plug access will suck big-time.

The early Falcon/Comet engine compartment is about 1.5" narrower than the Mustang and that really throws a monkey wrench into the works...

I've owned several early Falcons/Comets and looked at this swap too, I decided that in the long run a stroker motor was a better choice for more cubes.

 

My main issue with the 302 based motors is the cost to build one, and it has less returns in power for building it. That along with a weaker block kinda makes a valid argument for trying the 351 swap in my head. There's a guy ik selling a 393 rotating assembly for $500, where as a 347 kit is over $1000. Would headers like this work to try and clear things?
https://www.sandersonheaders.com/sanderson-ff6-small-block-ford-header-set.html
Or maybe some tri y headers that hug the block? Ik they're right in the place you need them to be, but I'm sure there's something that'll fit with a little denting no?

Ik the shock towers get in the way allot, but. If they're cut and welded like that I think it'd help allot for headers as well

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Look up PJ Nadeau on instagram. He has an early Falcon drag car with a turbo 8.2 aftermarket block and has done a form of minitubs you'd be interested in looking at. It reuses the stock wheel wells by splitting them, adding a spacer in the middle, and cutting a bit of the floor so the inner edge of the well is the outer surface of the subframe. If you want to go further than that there's kits to bring the springs in, but it's allot more intensive. This puts the wheel wells in line with the subframe and leaf springs.

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What's going on guys? Hope everyone is doing well. I haven't been doing much lately in the garage other than working around the house as usual. Anyway I decided to remove the oil galley plugs and the engine block plugs because I am off next week to spend time with my grandkids for Spring Break and get some things done for myself. So I made an effort to go out there this afternoon to do just that because I wanted to drop the block off at the machine shop.

So I started to inspect the block and I couldn't believe that I missed this the times I looked at it. While checking the lifter bores and such and I noticed this. Am I screwed? I think I am but would like to know what everyone thinks and what could have caused this? The distributor shaft took a dump and blew the hole? I didn't think they were strong enough to do this to the casting.

If so another 289 for scrap. At least I didn't pay a bundle for it but it is disappointing to say the least.

 

Keep in mind the 351W has it's issues too. One is a considerable more limited choice in intake manifolds. And the 351W has high-speed oiling issues; it's large 3" main bearings present a too-high bearing speed at high RPMs, particularly over extended time. Great street motor, not so much as a race piece...

I'd take those Sanderson headers with a large grain of salt. The Falcon/Comets are the toughest header fit of all the '60s Fords. And Sanderson is misleading you; the pics they show of a 'Falcon' install is actually a '62-65 Fairlane which is positively roomy compared to the Falcon (note the hole in the tower with the visible bolt head; you don't have that...). I don't see those fitting with a 351W, even with cut shock towers. The only off-the-shelf headers I'm aware of that actually fit are Doug's Tri-Y for the early Falcon/Comet and those only work with the 289/302. Guys have tried 'other' headers that were claimed to fit, with poor results.

If you really want to go 351W, do a straight axle or M2 conversion and get rid of the shock towers altogether...

 

Looks like casting flash to me, not anything broken...

 

Rotary file clean that up in a jiffy

 

Well I'm mainly having it as a performance street motor, not planning on revving it to the moon.

I didn't even realize that, but it makes sense with how much room it shows. If anything I might try to go with those tri y headers and see how close things are with them.

The main reason I don't want to go with a mustang 2 front is the cost and how intensive it is.. it's at least 2k just for the subframe and you have to cut everything off to install it. I also want it to somewhat handle/ride well so I don't want to go with a straight axle. I know I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too, but I've seen it done before with good results. I might have to check what they did with their header situation if I can get a hold of them.

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Thanks, just wasn't sure about it.

-Mark

 

That's exactly the kind of information I was looking for thank you! I'm actually starting with the rear suspension first so I can measure wheel and tire clearance once the wheel wells are opened up. In the mean time I'll be able to keep the 7.25 under there so it stays a roller while the 9" gets built. One more question. How frowned upon is it around here to swap in a mustang 2 suspension on these old falcons? Lol

 

VERY frowned upon and IF you post photos of the swap they will get deleted. So just post photos of the OTHER STUFF.

 

Lmao. So I'll definitely take note of that lol. Hopefully I'll have the car moved into my shop this weekend. So I can start working on the floors. It's a flintstone mobile right now lol

 

What engine is in that? I don't think I've seen an intake that looks like that before

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That's a EFI Chev motor with SBF valve covers adapted on...

 

It ain't no HAMB motor!

 

So this is what I've been looking at for ideas. Ik it's hard to see but he's got headers on it and everything, so I know there's hope lol.


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Question about crankshaft and cam bearings, is Durabond any good? What about coated bearings? I was just going to run Clevite on everything but noticed Durabond seems to come up when searching the net and Youtube.

 

I don't know about durabond, but I've only heard good things about clevites

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