1952-59 Ford FAQ Sticky

Thinking about doing an engine swap? Handy chart right here: http://www.carnut.com/specs/engdim.html This chart lists the weight of most engines http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/engineweights2.html Guide to Ford engine block codes https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/a-guide-to-ford-v8-engine-block-casting-numbers-1952-1996/ (Of course Ford in a Ford is a good thing)

 

This is a link regarding the Ford AOD used in some swaps,always look for a 1988-93 donor as these have the improved lubrication and upgraded valve body http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2006/05/01/hmn_feature5.html Update 12/3/2020 additional Tech (It relates to a Mustang but you can disregard some of that) https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/threads/c4-to-aod.470612/

 

Does any one have a definite answer to what heater core will work in a 54? I read that a 78/79 f-100 will work and a early comet/falcon will work. (the heater core in my 54 was out of something different as they jb welded the tabs on) Some guys have adapted mid 80's Ford Ranger cores. From "Sticky" Page 5 Post# 137 Autozone part Spectra 399025 Around $30.

 

Putting a Y-block in a 1949-53 Ford car lots of pictures and text: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177373&page=2 Here is another take to doing it. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1950-shoe-box-y-block-install.1051398/

 

Helpful DIY Tips: http://www.hotrodhotline.com/hotrod-md

 

I have used these folks for Carburetor parts and recommend them to deal with: http://allcarbs.com/salelist.php?stt=30

 

Sacramento Ford has some manuals and wiring diagrams available:http://www.vintageford.com/sect_search.cfm?Line=1952-56&Category=Books / Manuals

 

One of the most expensive things in a project can be upholstery so if you are on a budget here are some links to ideas: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=749414 10/8/2020 UPDATE Source for headliners windlace included. https://wlsheadliners.com/cl***ic-ford-mercury-replacement-headliners.html

 

Got some babies that fit - FINALLY! After getting 2 sets of cheap, non-fitting baby moons (or smoothies, as some call them), the set I got from Hubcap Mike's actually fit, very nicely too. They snapped on using the palm of my hand and with no distortion.

Link to Hubcap Mike's: http://hubcapmike.com/

A couple of pics :

Just what I was looking for.
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Another source for the motor mounts we use in a 302-351 swap in 54-59 cars. http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...eo&utm_medium=retargeting&utm_campaign=criteo

 

Goldmine of "Tips and Tricks" pick a topic off the sidebar and enjoy:http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/engine-swap.html

 

Bringing this to the top again for reference in the "sticky File" as the Aerostar spring swap has been so popular and this link has a ton of before and after Pix: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260795

 

Thinking of swapping out a transmission? New coverage on adapter kits now available here: http://www.transmissionadapters.com/ 223 & Flathead to AOD also late model Mustang stick shift to early engines,call for info.

 

not all ranger rear axles work depending on aplication) 83-92 7.5 are 56 1/2 wide 83-92 7.5 are 58 1/2 90-92 8.8 are 56 1/2 and 93-99 8.8 are 58 1/2 Full info on them can be found here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-8_8-axle.shtml

 

in searching for rear shocks for my '55, these are the 3 choices that came up most often as (affordable) OE replacement. Most sites don't seem to include all options if you choose 'Fairlane' as a model, but Hollanders lists this for the interchange:

'52 - '56 p***enger
'57 - '58 p***. w/ metal spring except S.W., convertible, and sedan delivery
'55 - '57 T-bird

KYB Gas-A-Just KG5517
Extended Length: 17.87"
Compressed Length: 10.91"
Travel: 6.96"

Gabriel Guardian Shock 81270
Extended Length: 17.67 in.
Compressed Length: 10.56 in.
Travel: 7.11 in

Monroe Monro-Matic 31125
Extended Length 20.75"
Compressed Length 12.25"
Travel: 8.50"

 

Ford parts Vendors list: http://www.bigalslist.com/vendors/ford.htm

 

UPDATE: On replacement heater blower motors if you go from 6 volt to 12 volt this is the new Dayton part # These will bolt right in no mods needed. https://www.grainger.com/product/DA...CH7&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&tier=Not+Applicable

 

Update from Watsons on relays,this is valuable info if you are going to rewire your Ford https://watsons-streetworks.com/a-current-topic/ Many of us have added additional accessories and the original ignition switches are not up to handling the load before they fail also a common complaint is dim headlights even after a Halogen upgrade you will not believe the difference after adding the relays.The section "Current topics" covers relays.

 

How to measure for a driveshaft: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/how_to_measure.html Ford yokes:http://www.drive-lines.com/dana/******_applications.php?model=Ford 1949-56 Ford front joints are 1" diameter cups with inside snap rings,most C4 & AOD with the 3 1/2" yokes have 1 1/16" cups with outside snap rings If you are using the stock rear end you will need a conversion U-joint with these sizes to attach the front yokes listed,notice the length of the yokes available you may be able to use your existing driveshaft by choosing the correct yoke and U-joint.

 

Great Chart for breaking down Ford's Codes: http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDecode.html This is something you should save if you are doing or planning on a swap.

 

Swapping a 3 speed column for an Automatic column when using an AOD or C4.Here's how with pictures:http://1954ford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2951 Update 12/3/20 Refer to sticky Page 6 for pictures and Tech on the Lokar linkage rod kit which was not available when this was written. The C4 linkage kit is part # ACA-1801

 

Little bit of info on port matching SBF heads: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/mufp-0605-ford-mustang-cylinder-head-porting

 

Here is how to read the tags on Ford rear ends,scroll down to the bottom and click on the appropriate prefix: http://www.fordification.com/tech/rearends_ford01.htm

 

Here you will find a chart regarding wire sizes pertaining to gauge and to the length of said wire.Many times we will install one wire alternators to eliminate under the hood wiring clutter there is a lot of BAD info out there stating to use a 10 gauge wire to the positive battery terminal from the alternator.Most parts houses will have the cables with to flat eye terminals like Ford uses off the starter solenoid these are usually available in 4 or 6 gauge for around $5-$6 use those for the most common 100 amp one wires.http://www.motorcityreman.com/technical-info.html

 

Aerostar spring testimonials:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260795 A later update: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...star-coil-installation.1117721/#post-12689589

 

Some of this information can be found in our "sticky file" but lots more is also here:http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/Hot-Rods-Rat-Rods/garage-shop-reference.asp#axzz2n3yEhHV8 So I have posted it for reference.

 

Handy Gear Ratio and MPH Chart: http://www.prosystemsracing.com/calculate.html remember this will be a 1 to 1 ratio, to calculate with OD multiply the 1 to 1 by the OD ratio.

 

Ford engine dimensions chart: http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Ford+302+Engine+Dimensions&FORM=RESTAB

 

One Wire Alternator Facts: http://www.rodauthority.com/tech-st...rs-are-they-better-or-just-easier-to-hook-up/

 

1955-56 Ford Cross member plans: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/55-56-ford-crossmember-spec-sheet-001.174642/ and http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/55-56-crossmember-001-jpg.3001353/