After driving my car for the first time this summer, I quickly discovered the importance of floor insulation. It's like driving a Libby's bean can on a barbecue! After researching some older posts, I decided on Fat Mat. I bought the 100 sq. foot kit, that includes a little wooden roller. I want to do the firewall and the floor with 2 layers. I've never used this stuff before, any tips or tricks to make the installation go smooth?
I use contact cement to install it. Pre cut your pcs. to fit. Smear floor/ firewall what ever with contact cement, then smear it on insulation. While still wet ( I don't let them set up like you are supposed to) I place in position and move around to position, then roll/press them out. Not saying it's the proper or best way, it's just the way we do it.
I've used Fat Mat on several projects and really like the stuff,especially for the price. It is self adhesive, cut it to fit before removing the backing, it is does not stick over dirt or oily surfaces. I mostly have used it on bare steel or freshly painted stuff. Roll all the bubbles out of it or when it heats up the bubbles will grow. Sometimes I have poked a little hole to get it to roll out smooth, small pieces seem to be easier to place and it sticks to itself really well.
Gloves for sure, sharp blades, screwdriver handle (those little wooden rollers suck) and a heat gun! Warming up the pieces helps get it around the contours on the floor and gets the adhesive sticky. make sure your surface is clean and be sure to keep track of mounting holes and bolts too. its easier to make cuts to expose them as go rather than waiting till the end.
Make sure the surface is CLEAN..... And I agree with everything mentioned above but never have done the contact cement thing with a self adhesive backing on this so cannot agree or disagree with that.
As said above, don't try to work with big sheets. After peeling the backing off, don't allow the sticky side to touch itself or it will instantly & permanently bond to itself. I don't think I'd try contact cement because this stuff is so sticky it doesn't need it. You can puncture bubbles with a razor to flatten them out and you can make slices in it to get it to go into the deep grooves in your sheetmetal. Some guys get real picky about sealing seams, but if you want it just as sound deadener, you don't have to wallpaper everything perfectly for it to work. I'd try a single layer before doubling it up. You may not need any more than one. By the way, "Peel and Seal" in the Lowes or Home Depot roofing department makes a 6" x 25' roll that's good for small areas. At $16-$17 it's a bargain.
clean surface, measure twice cut one, do not waste it. Small pieces can be used so do not throw them out. I just did a complete car and the only waste I had was a 2" x 3" piece. Think it out and plan, then cut. Use a good roller and I take a 1/2" thick by 2" wide piece of wood, round and bull nose the edge and use that for ribbed areas and corners
Thanks guys, those tips will save me some time and grief! Our local Home Depot (in Canada) doesn't carry Peel & Seal. The Fat Mat is well priced, it landed to me at $1.44 per square foot. That included the cheap wood roller and box cutter. Peel & Seal looks like it's around $1.35 a square.
I use the foil tape (not duct tape!) sold in the heating duct section at Home Depot or Lowes to seal the seams. Not sure if it's needed, but it does tie it all together and make it hold well. The foil tape is very sticky, and has a paper back that is peeled off. Be sure to use short, manageable strips, or you'll end up with it sticking to everything while trying to get it in place.
I did my car in the summer and was able to let it soak in the sun which helped it conform much easier. My best tool for stretching and forming it was a sharpie, I suppose a rounded off stick would work too. Definatley a heat gun if you are doing it in the winter. Made a big difference in my tin can, you can actually hold a conversation with the windows down driving on the freeway. <a href="http://s1133.beta.photobucket.com/user/TZandell/media/59%20ElCamino/IMG_1102.jpg.html" target="_blank"></a> and if your friends are like mine, be prepared for transformer carpet jokes until you get it covered.
dont waste the material with two layers. the guy who owns fatmat and runs the booth told us it is a diminishing returns type thing like 2 layers is only ten percent better, save it for the roof, trunk and cmpletely cover the inside of the door skin and the metal door panel (inside facing out)
Definitely use a heat gun. Warm the metal a bit and the material before applying it. Makes it conform more easily and the adhesive works better as well.
Made some progress the last few days. Tools of choice, heat gun, gloves and the wood hande from my window squeegy.
I found that one of those heavy duty rubber flooring rollers at H D is the only thing stout enough to mash the stuff in. Most rods aren't big enough to get that technical with tho X 2 on the heat gun.
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