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Technical Fenders on model a

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by David Knapp, Apr 30, 2018.

  1. David Knapp
    Joined: May 16, 2014
    Posts: 105

    David Knapp
    Member

    I'm looking to add fenders and running boards to my 31 ,anyone tell me does the body need to come off the frame which is a 1928 frame and is there anything special I need to do to do the job the right way were I don't hear noise coming from improper insulation .Thanks for any info .
     
  2. you will have to lift the front of the body up a couple inches to get the aprons slid on.
     
    LOU WELLS likes this.
  3. David Knapp
    Joined: May 16, 2014
    Posts: 105

    David Knapp
    Member

    Thanks tb33anda3rd, from what I can see they only bolt to the braces correct and not to the frame it self .
     
  4. dirt t
    Joined: Mar 20, 2007
    Posts: 5,359

    dirt t
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. HAMB Old Farts' Club

    The splash apron/ running board fit between body and frame. Also you will need fender brackets , running board brackets and if you are going to run a hood there are some more brackets.
     
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  5. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,394

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Dave, there is one small bolt that attaches the apron to the frame rail. I believe it is a 1/4" bolt towards the rear of the apron.
     
    Tim and tb33anda3rd like this.
  6. There is a lip on the side splash aprons that has to fit between the body and the frame. HRP
     
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  7. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    tail lights had a small stamped brace that bolted through the fender flange and the wheelwell...
    the coupe, sport coupe, cabriolet and roadster use horizontal [2] bolt bracket.. both cast and stamped.
    the tudor, fordor and touring use a 45* angle [3] bolt ... both c and s.
    pick up used a large threaded radius...and maybe coupe style [2] bolt...
    deliveries and panels ? ?
     
  8. before putting paint on anything be sure to completely fit all the aprons and fenders. repro's suck, you WILL have to cut and trim. originals have been around too many years to keep them straight. DSCF0002.JPG before i got this one they had painted 3 brand new fenders and an original without test fitting. i will be repainting them over now that i have fit them correctly.
     
  9. David Knapp
    Joined: May 16, 2014
    Posts: 105

    David Knapp
    Member

    Thanks all for the helpful info .
     
  10. David Knapp
    Joined: May 16, 2014
    Posts: 105

    David Knapp
    Member

    Thanks for the info
     
  11. dirt t
    Joined: Mar 20, 2007
    Posts: 5,359

    dirt t
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. HAMB Old Farts' Club

    20180327_142305.jpg 20180327_142305.jpg 20180327_142305.jpg 20180327_142305.jpg this will give you an idea.
     
    Tim and tb33anda3rd like this.
  12. Which brackets are those please... I am getting ready to fit a full hood and would like to know if I need more parts.
    Thanks
     
  13. dirt t
    Joined: Mar 20, 2007
    Posts: 5,359

    dirt t
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    1. HAMB Old Farts' Club

    The brackets are just in front of the cowl on outside of frame where the spring loaded device holds the hood closed. There is two of these the front ones bolt to the top of frame.
     
  14. Fomoco998
    Joined: Feb 12, 2018
    Posts: 22

    Fomoco998

    Maybe he's talking about the bracket on outside of the frame the the rear hood latch bolts to . the front latch is bolted through the top frame rail same as the little L-shape bracket centered between hood latches .
     
  15. dirt t
    Joined: Mar 20, 2007
    Posts: 5,359

    dirt t
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    Notice small bracket in front of cowl just above four bar.
     

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  16. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 32,089

    The37Kid
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You'll need fender welting, step up and buy the best from Roy Nacewicz. http://fordscript.com/ Arbor punches make for nice bolt boles. Bob
     
  17. thanks.
    i have those... i guess i thought they were just lower fender mounts as they already have hardware attached.
    thanks again!!
     
  18. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 2,067

    Dirk35
    Member

    I looks like there are a few others in this thread with similar questions, so I tried to compile a comprehensive parts list to put fenders and a hood back onto a Model A based off the fenders on my 1928 Model A. These aren't my pictures, I just googled the parts. Keep in mind that the fenders and brackets are different from 28-29 versus 30-31. If anyone sees anything that I'm missing, please let me know and Ill add it. You can look at what I titled the pictures for a description. Hope this helps.
     

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  19. David Knapp
    Joined: May 16, 2014
    Posts: 105

    David Knapp
    Member

  20. David Knapp
    Joined: May 16, 2014
    Posts: 105

    David Knapp
    Member

    On the hood part I'm going to do the hood with out the sides and go with the leather straps for the hold down .
     
  21. dirt t
    Joined: Mar 20, 2007
    Posts: 5,359

    dirt t
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    1. HAMB Old Farts' Club

    I'm with you on leather straps I like that look.
    My pick up will look like it looks now.
    No plans for paint or body work.
    Please post final pictures.
     
  22. David Knapp
    Joined: May 16, 2014
    Posts: 105

    David Knapp
    Member

    IMG_0038.JPG IMG_0575.jpg IMG_0576.jpg IMG_0590.jpg Here is a few pictures now without the fenders ,3 year garage build including the paint .
     
    Tim likes this.
  23. dirt t
    Joined: Mar 20, 2007
    Posts: 5,359

    dirt t
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    1. HAMB Old Farts' Club

    I just received a Limeworks catalog in the mail it has those leather straps with springs.
     
  24. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,696

    -Brent-
    Member

    You may run into a weird look/situation at the rear of your car because of the aftermarket tank set-up. I imagine there will be some sort of gap that would need to be addressed.
     
  25. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 2,067

    Dirk35
    Member

    David, I love your Car! You did awesome. I like the color too.

    I'm in the process of re-doing a lot on my sedan so I sent you a PM with a few questions.

    My 28 Sedan also has a 32 tank on the back. You'll need the rear frame covers for a 32. Looking at yours, it looks like you put it with the 32 frame rails parallel to the ground (I think they angle down just a little at the back). You might need the steel rear frame horn covers (instead of fiberglass ones) so you can cut them apart to make them fit better. You'll also need the tail light brackets. https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_...black-pressed-steel-right-ford-passenger.html
    1928 Ford Sedan Rear.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2018
    -Brent- likes this.
  26. David Knapp
    Joined: May 16, 2014
    Posts: 105

    David Knapp
    Member

    Thanks Dirk35 I do have the tail light brackets already .love the look at your ride are you using coil overs in the back right now I have the non adjusting coil overs rides little rough on these texas roads I'm going with the adjustable as soon as I can hope that makes it ride better. I may need to fab some kind of cover for the fuel tank but that will come when I slap the fenders on .Good luck with your ride keep me posted .Cheers
     
  27. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 2,067

    Dirk35
    Member

    David,
    Thanks for sending the pictures. Ill take a picture of how I did my rear seat frame.

    I have adjustable coil overs. They were expensive, but allowed me to raise the rear up a little as our roads are bad also. My car was originally re-built as a Hot Rod in the 80s wehn I got it, and I had to cut off all of the rear end brackets off both the frame and the rear-end and re-do them. I also "C" notched my frame and put the bump stop in the "C" notch to give it more travel room.

    You don't need a tank cover. You just need the 32 Rear Frame Horn Covers. They fill the gap between the lower part of your rear fender to the frame rail (see attached pictures with and w/o the covers). I suggest getting the steel repo ones instead of the fiberglass ones, or your bolt hole that bolts it to the fender will break (both of mine are busted and I've re-fiber glassed them once, but they are broken again). BTW, these are just pictures I pulled from Google.
     

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