I has a racing intake for the FH ( 4 x 2 = E&S Marine Special ) so it's no room for a alternator. Or no mounts for a alternator. Its no room for a fan either. I can go 8BA cam cover but block is a 59AB. I rather use a angle adapter on a 3 bolt cam cover. That get me the magnet straight up ( short or long adapter ) But in this case the alternator need to be at driverside, so I guess that gets the belts go into the magnet - or ? I guess this intake get me no room to has a alternator in std position, with a extern set-up as ex Offy sold before ( for fans ) So how to solve this. I guess this intakes they used methanol back in the days ( racing only ) and did not use fans. I can look over use methanol to, but belt and magnet set-up is not easy to solve.
No it’s not easy to solve. A lot depends on which water pumps you want to use. FYI, you have some terminology wrong. You mean to say “magneto” and “generator”.
No, magneto 'straight up'. I got information from Hamb member on a monnt. I wish I could get the std alternator there between the carbs.
Was there not any smaller alternator they ’could’ use back in racing from the big older Fords 30/40’s. If I has a mount as showed or own made identical and a smaller alternator it might fit at std position and between the carbs. One idea.
I used a smaller one It is a 28 Model A Powerhouse Gen with a Kubota PMG fitted inside, Put out about 25 amps Some photos of it on my blog www.1948fordpickup.blogspot.ca A few pages into the blog you will see it. small and fit well but have since changed the engine.
That’s a Very good question ! Well, what is really ’era correct’ ? -Is it a car to be a exact copy of a do***ented car or what we think they did or not did. I realize hot rodding was not equal to racing, as this is another form of car history and this early days the car seems to be made from a pile of junk what they found on junk yard and they did try go faster for small money. When my idea came up doing this I was direct into the early style but this car I saw look old but most had lots of new parts. I realize that now and it’s not wrong. Then how many had a nice paint, leather inside, chromed parts or did visit Bell Auto or had the experience that Navarro had. Maybe they could get a set of new heads. I did like to use old parts but I never has been into has a car that is not painted or look nice, and just that is not era correct. Then I has new made tires, I need new pistons and I guess I will to go 12V. But as I use parts no one se ( as old rods, crank, transmission, pressure plate, ring/pinion etc ) It really make no sense more than cost me allot of money and trouble. But I like to has a old transmission but all this old parts make a car very hard to build, I ‘mean just gauges old to new - and how many will see that and those see that is few and maybe had critics on my set up anyway. I ‘mean my gauge and panel is true parts from the 40’s but some could say ; no one used a Master panel ( or I has never seen that in a book ) The Ardun case has worry me but it don’t feel right any was used them this early even if they was advertised to hot rodders. So in big my era correct is parts that was advertised. So go 6 volt or 12. Life and engine might like 12 volt and if I can get a old style alternator I might can fill it inside with a new (?) Some might laugh on all this and say ; build a car you like that might look old but use new parts that’s working and are easy to get. But is it nice with a new China alternator from Summit ? ( I don’t like it ) I ‘mean how can I use new tires ? Well somewhere one has to be realistic. Shore I can find old NOS. All this is a typical example that go into a new door then 1000 new doors is after.... look, I’m not going crazy here, I’ll just like this car to has old parts as much as possible in a look I like, and use parts I know was made or out for sale pre 1951. If I like a better car, it can be a 32 Ford body but use all modern tech, but to me doing that I can get a new Audi roadster instead. So where is the line at Hamb, well I guess most like the old look and parts. -But it’s hot rodding so all do what they like.
There is an alternator that looks like a Lucas generator for British cars MG and Triumph. It is smaller and is available with a tach drive. They are not cheap, but might fit the bill. I pulled this screen shot from British Parts Northwest. Just google MG alternator that looks like a generator, the same Lucas generator was used on English Ford tractors so you could source a wide belt pulley if needed
Hank you have spent so many hundreds of words on the HAMB asking about authenticity, and now you are throwing it all out the window by using an alternator. Not cool.
I'm not sure why you don't want to use a Generator? If you don't have, electric fuel pumps, electronic ign & a big stereo, why the need for an alternator?
Alchemy, So what is your suggestion to use in this build up. I can't use 'anything' at std location for this intake/carb set-up, but I can has it on the side at head, so a std 30's, 40's Ford 6V.
With a 59 block, you will need the corresponding water pumps. If you want to run a magneto you will probably need to run it straight up with an aftermarket mount, or with an 8BA front cover. Maybe you can get the lower housing machined to make it stick out far enough past the belt. Then use a 48 lower double pulley and upper fan mount attached to a bracket like you showed. And an offset generator mount on the front of the left head. Anyone else think that setup would work?
Yes I’m aware I was not correct on that, overhere this units its call ; ’generator” but its ”likstrom’ and ’vaxelstrom”. Likstrom is the old way.
Yes, going generator is the ’era correct’, but I has been struggle if I will go 12 volt alternator. One way is hide it. As I will run a magnet I just need a battery for start. As this is a ’street’ race car ’look’ I might get away with no generator/alternator but it will not last long ofcourse. But maybe the small use I will do. This is not a car I will take to Monaco on vacation, its only local I ’could’ hide a Kuboto mini 12 V alternator as a belt tension pulley in a extern generator adapter ( as I showed ) hight enought to clear belt from a magnet ( straight up position ) Just a idea. Then I can tell my self I has no ’generator ( as no one can see it ) but that give charge to battery as its no fun get out of start power. But Ok I has a hand power tool from my Ferguson 47 tractor and crank has a nut for that :- ) I has no problem run a lithium battery, either a 6 or 12 volt. One friend told me here today, there are people here run ”era correct” but not truly love the 6 volt but they can also use Optima 6 volt battery. Either way one see this its a compromise here and there..
Well, there are 12volt generators. Also, I can’t recall it it’s about Ford starters or generators, but one of the two can accept the 12volt parts on the 6 volt housing.
The 28 ford powerhouse gen housing I used looks authentic, Regarding alternator /.generator the Kubota is a PMG a permanent magnet generator it does not need to be excited by a battery Suppose you could call it a generator. I have heard it said before "what you don,nt know does,nt exist" So 3 window Hank do as you please. It worked on my car but I do not have high power demands. lights horn battery charge thats about it. no one has ever asked me about it actually do not care if they do or not. Just haven fun!
The A-Ford generator is shorter, but I has never seen one on a FH before. Most FH intake get room for a std or they use a mount on head. The A-Ford could work as a belt tension and charge.
Going by the picture, I think that the product @e1956v is referring to is also called a dynamator or dynamo I put one on my sedan, easiest option at the time. https://www.cl***iccaraccessories.co.nz/collections/dynamator maybe a powergen is another option.
Thanks, I think it offers the best of both worlds, you have alternator power and with this Lucas look alike it is in a smaller package than the powergen both are great units. Plus, with the Lucas looking unit you have a mechanical tach drive option. I know it's not a 100% traditional but 9 out of 10 people won't know the deference.
Make an idler pulley set up using the front 1/2 of the Ford generator with a fan mount pulley to mount the fan. Mount the generator to the side on either head. Been done this way many, many times. Alternator is not authentic by any stretch of the imagination.
banjorear, Yes I guess that will be the case here. Need a fan, need a generator and pumpfuel is the only way to go. This intake is cool but I require 2 extra 'hard to get' mounts, and I'm not a fan to has the generator over the head, and not a fan of reproduction generator/alernator ( can't help it on this car ) What I could do is has a old generator and might turn it into a 12 V if thati s possible.
I've seen a number of guys make that "hard to get" mount out of steel. Doesn't need to be the aluminum one to work. A little time laying it out should yield great results. Converting an old Ford generator to 12V is very easy. Here is a step-by-step post I did on Fordbarn. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319534
This is nothing new - especially in a 32. Here is what you need: 1) 59x Series block with 37 - 48 water pumps. This puts the single fan belt close to the block, allows you to use 32 motor mounts, the lower crankshaft pulley will sit just behind the stock front cross-member, etc.. Shave the later "motor mounts" off the sides of the water pumps (they look like bull-horns) - and use the stock 32 mounts on the front of the block. You'll need to relieve the sides of the 32 motor mounts to clear the fan belt. 2) Ignition: Two choice - one cheap, one expensive. a) The cheapest approach is a 21A style crab distributor - setup by somebody who knows what they're doing. Or a rebuilt Harman-Collins dual-coil (again, setup by somebody who knows these specific ignitions). b) Magneto: You already have a Vertex magneto, now you need to find an angle drive. It will NOT sit straight up, it will tilt the mag at an angle. This is exactly what I have on my 32 Cabriolet. I made a spacer for the magneto with a bearing in it - to move the mag away from the fan belt just a bit. I made an extended adapter that fits in the bearing and picks up the standard T-Slot in the cam. 3) You build a fan-idler out of a stock 34 or so generator. You can cut-down a case and press out the shaft from the armature, then cut and turn down the back end of the "short shaft" to fit in the rear bearing plate. You want it ot have two bearings in it - and will fit in front of the front carb. 4) You run a 32 Fan - it bolts to the front of your fan-idler in the stock position. Here are the pictures/videos of two engines - one in my 32 Cab which is a 42 Merc - same front as a 59X. I am running a converted generator in the stock location (just fits in front of the Eddie Meyer manifold). This will show you the magneto setup you need. The second engine has the idler I'm talking about, with a stock 32 fan as well and an PowerGen alternator that looks like a generator. Here you can see the idler as well as the generator bracket that mounts a stock style generator off of the cylinder head. Here the engine is on a break-in stand - with the generator and 32 fan mounted off of the idler. This engine has a dual-coil Harman-Collins distributor on it.
And here is a front view - without the fan . . . on the first time I started it. It's going in my friend Andy's 32 roadster: (185) 302 Cubic Inch Stroker Flathead Startup - YouTube
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