hello. i am in the process of getting a 32 bantam body from rod n race. i want to reinforce the the inside of the body. i am planning to use steel tubing,and laminate it on with resin,and glass cloth.any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.how many layers of cloth and resin would it take to get a real strong bond. i plan on using 3/4 inch marine plywood for the floor,with sheet steel on the road side for protecting me.are there any good books out there that i can get for a guide. i work in steel body work all the time. this is my first fiberglass project. thanks in advance.ron.
Hey man, people are gonna blast you on here for even mentioning glass and hot rod in the same sentence. Don't listen to them. Do what makes you happy. I gotta say that I am a steel guy myself, but I won't judge you for doing what you want. With that being said, you can do it the way that you were talking about in your post but I have worked in composites in indycar racing as well as the aerospace industry and if if were my car I would used a honeycomb core as a structural reinforcement. Honeycomb core is made in aluminum as well as a composite material. I am sure you can order it on the webb somewhere. Make sure you use a qaulity resin as well. You will get what you pay for. Were long sleeves and a mask when you sand it. When it gets in your skin take a cold shower as opposed to a hot shower. That is my words of wisdom for you. Let me know if there is anything else you need help with. I would be more than happy to try to answers any questions you might have. Good luck!
Check some of the boat building sites for glas' how to info. This place is good: http://www.fibreglast.com/ These guys are expensive, but there is some good info on their site: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/ Make sure you remove the "Amine Blush", so your new glas' will stick. Wood is more commonly used for reinforcement, Marine grade, or baltic Birch, would be great. There are also newer man-made composite reinforcements available.
LOTS of books here: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=28& If your body is similar to the one I had, it really needs some reinforcement.
I have a book that's called HOW TO BUILD FIBERGLASS HOTRODS,CUSTOMS, AND KIT CARS by Leroi Tex Smith. I think this book will help you alot.
All the above statements are great, I m building a glass car myself l t's more work than steel. Dont let it discourage you. Hanging the doors and decklid will be the toughest You will have to reinforce certain areas ,after that its straight body work ,I know it's not steel but I traded a motor for it,And had the 32 rails.
Amine Blush: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/blush4u.html Barrier Cream is also good stuff, and you will need lots of ventilation when working with resin.
Good luck with that! Itchy itchy! Some of us cant afford the real deal, me being one of them. As long as you "get it" it can be done with taste. That's what brought me to the Hamb! My good friend Rumbler Del and the good folks here have shown me the way. I will be done with my 32 3 window soon, I cant wait to drive it!!! Check it out and pm me with glass questions and I will do my best to help you out. My car..... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324514
Years ago I built a '27 full fendered roadster using AI 'glass. The body was a big floppy unreinforced thing, but I did get one with the trunk cut out and reiforced by them. It was braced with half round 'glass tubing, which looked for all the world like Christmas paper wrap tubes covered with several layers of mat. So, guess what I braced the body with? Doors I braced with paper towel roll tubes cut in half with siccors and 4 layers of mat around the perimeter, then cut them out after the glass had cured. Door posts were cut from Phillipean mahogany and bonded to the body with long strand glass reiforced filler, as was the cowl behind the w/s posts. Seat brace/trunk divider was plywood bonded to the body with more glass filler and a couple layers of mat. The body was stiff, nothing came unstuck and the bracing didn't photograph thru the gelcoat and paint. It seemed like a good way to do it, and it wasn't rocket science.
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