So im blocking out the roof on my '51 plym, I new there were milloins of tiney bubbles caused by solvent pop but I NEVER thought how they would turn into pinholes when I blocked out the roof :-( well NOW im realizing it! Heres where Im at after days of not getting done what I wanted. The old clear has been wet blocked w/ 220. I then noticed the tiney pinholes when I swiped the panel w/ a squegee. Not knowing how bad they were (looks like specks of white sand in the clear) I tried priming just a small area to see if they were really there. Yes, like thousands of little fish eyes everywhere :-( I decided to try drastic measures! SInce I still had primer in the gun, I sprayed a line across the roof then immediatley squegeed it across the panel. The thought was it would force the primer into the pinhole as it broke the surface tension. So I repeated this across the entire roof then blocked it out when it dried. Tomorrow ill try priming it again to see if I accomplished anything. If this didnt work, has anyone tried this stuff? http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/evercoat-440-express-micro-pinhole-eliminator-p-17766.aspx Jeff
I'm going to suggest that you remove all the undercoat and start over, just to make sure you don't have problems with your topcoat on down the road. If they are fisheyes, in my experience, when they are tiny and everywhere, they were caused by water and oil in my air system. Filling the tiny holes may work for a while, but I never found them to be stable enough in the end, and we would wind up stripping everything off and starting over.
I guess I shouldnt have called them fisheyes. They are empty voids in the old clear coat (which has been there for 5 yrs) that got opened up when I block sanded them. 100% sure its not from oil and or water jeff
I'm guessing that you will not be able to fill them even by trying to force primer into them. I think the primer will only leave a film over them and will again sand off and reveal them either now or later. The little divots are full of air and I think impossible to fill. I would use a DA sander and maybe #320 and carefully sand down the finish to remove them. Reprime if necessary, and go from there. Won't take anymore time to do it right and be happy with the results. Good luck.
Even though I know better, The heats on in the garage now, and im going to try a regular sprayed coat of primer this morning. Ill report back later. Again, has anybody used this stuff? Sounds like its made for exactly what im dealing w/ http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/ever...r-p-17766.aspx jeff
The problem is that a "solvent pop" is really a small cavity of air inside the paint that expands and contracts and even condenses moisture with temperature change. That's how the millions of "bubbles" grew all over the car.... from the expanding and contracting with temperature change. Typically when this happens and they trap moisture, the moisture will start a tiny rust spot under the bubble. If you sand it down to bare metal you will see them. Often this isn't even a "solvent" issue. I see this happen a lot when people spray a porous primer like laquer primer over bare metal and then wet sand it or let it get wet (primer is like a sponge and it absorbs the moisture which then rusts the metal underneath it) The rust itself will trap air and it is impossible to force any primer into the hole and even if you do, the rust will continue to grow (that's why they call it "cancer"). So the bottom line is that no matter what you do or how you do it, there is no "surface remedy". As soon as you repaint the car and it is either placed in the sun or gets hot and cold the bubbles will immediately come back. Sometimes in just a day or two making all of the effort you are going through right now a total waste of time. Hate to break the news to you but here is the bright side.... You have already taken 220 grit to it so you are not trying to "save" your paint job. There is no real reason not to take 36 grit to it and be done with the problem and prime over fresh metal since you already are clearly willing to prime it. Unless the solvent popped area is over a ton of body work, like a chopped top, there is no reason not to just do it right because in the long run it will have to be done anyway. If the problem IS over a ton of body work, you just have to keep blocking with the 220 until you are past all primer. Just dig in and get it over with. You will feel much better after you make the committment to dive in.
You can fill and sand but you are asking for trouble in the future. Shit like that always comes back to haunt you. Unless it is a cheap shove it out the door job, you will have to strip the bad paint off.
Solvent pops are usually caused by to much product being applied to fast.and Not letting each application flash of before continuing... At some point someone was in a hurry.. I bet if you pulled some of the product off the Panel.. you would smell solvent in there somewhere .. I would sand it off and start over.. if not your just burying the problem and it will come back.in time. Never know it could Blister...
As stated by others,strip all old finish off-clean with wax & grease remover-etching primer-primer surfacer. I would not spend the money on new product and spray over a problem foundation you are asking for failure of your new paint job. If the problem is fisheyes it could be dirty shop and or contaminated air supply and these would need to be addressed. Also find a good paint supply source and use from primer stage to the clear stage! After 25 years as a auto body tech if your foundation work is not good you are in for failure.
Yup., thats exactly how it got there! And it was me that did it So i headed to the garage to try priming and then i just threw in the towel. I grabbed the da and 120 gritdiscs and just gave it hell. I tried my best to keep things flat and even. Thru the clear., then thru the color and stopped just as i hit the old high build. Ionly broke thru the epoxy and into the filler in a few spots (this is a chop top so ihated to alter any of this). 4.5 hrs later im just about done and all the solvent pop is gone. Now back to priming and blocking. Jeff
JCS just strip the roof again and start over, with your car I dont think you would ever be happy knowing what was hideing under the paint. I love your ride Bob
Sometimes too much activator/hardener- in primer or paint will do the same exact thing.....should be completely stripped in my opinion.....
I did strip it., all the bubbles were in the old clear., I know this because i did it 5 yrs ago. When i chopped the top i was in a hurry to paint it. As soon as i sprayed the clear., i rolled it out in the sun to cure. voila, the outer layer cured to fast and trapped the thinners. Now that i sannded it off, its gone! Jeff
it will all work out fine.. I know its difficult .. so many things in the process can go wrong from start to finish,.. From mixing filler to appling Filler, to sanding filler to soon, to appling primer coat after coat to fast. it just traps everything underneath. then appling base and not letting it flash between layers then appling clear to fast too heavy. it will create issues. Bodywork at most just sucks.. but if you take your time with the products.. you will be so much happier with the end result. using the right amount of Hardners is key.. To much will lead to delamination.. or staining through the top coats.. always do in a warm enviroment , Not in direct sunlight.. Metal should not be to hot.. it wont have time to bond properly..
Oh yeah, that #**!*## committment to dive in. As I've aged, it's gotten to where sometimes it takes me 1 or 2 days to finally let that committment soak through my being. But then, it does feel better once the committment is deep within and I have yet to be dissatisfied with the ultimate product which comes into being afterwards.
just incase anybody was following this, im happy to say the roof is now painted! So i dont take up more space, heres a link to the build w/ pic updates http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8863998&postcount=124 And thanks to everyone who yelled at me to do it right. jeff
The 'reoccurrence' rather than 'haunting' would be the correct term. And to the OP, nice to hear of your success with the task.
I had a similar problem yrs back (1967)with my 40 Buick Super. Had to sand it all off to bare metal, and prime it and then paint. Had many suggestions from painters, but not any definite answers as to what causes it. Most said it was the sun that affected the primer and once the finish paint was removed the pimples were there. I did a first class paint job on her (25) coats of Black lacquer, and then 600 and then hand rubbed. It still a beautiful paint job today, outside of a few chips. Iceman
What the fuck? Is this an english test? Would you like to proof read all my post? BTW if you're going to correct my writing, please, at least have a clue as to what you are talking about. My use of the word was absolutely correct.
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