Projects Fill 32 Radiator Shell old school no bondo (Tech Week)

1. Filling a shell without bondo or expensive forming tools. If you look at many filled shells the peak comes out too flat or it is missing the compound curve needed to follow the flow of the shell. Yes, I could MIG in a flat piece and build it up with Bondo, but I think we should set the bar for craftsmanship considerably higher than that.
2. Time to look at filling the grille shell. Don't want the radaitor cap etc to disrupt the flow of the lines before you even start looking.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
3. 
   Okay, so the stamping for the radiator filler sticks up and disrupts the visual flow from the front to the rear of the car. It needs to be carefully marked and cut off.
   
   
   
   Carefully cut the hole and mark the center lines.
   
   
   
   
4. 
   Next it is time to get a distance across the SURFACE of that compound curve. You can use some really complex Topology equations or I prefer using a piece of cardstock and approximating the curvature with the card stock. Then just mark the distance and you have a template. (Don't stretch it tight when marking. Also, it is better to have extra material to grind off later for a perfect fit.)
   
   
   
   
   
5. 
   Now what to fill that 3D cavity with. Enter a suggestion from my friend Paul. Find a headlight at a swap meet with the right curvature and use part of it to fill the hole. ($5 fix).
   
   You can just make out the "HEADLIGHT" stamping in this piece but the radius was too tight and I don't want that wording showing in the finished product.
   
   
   So dig up another headlight with a better Radius and lay out the sector
   
   So you can see this headlight already made one repair so this is now a $2.50 repair
   
   Lay the piece on the shell and see how well it fits. Don't worry about the gap at the bead around the rear of the rad. shell, (front of the old headlight) that piece will be cut off.
   
   
   
   
6. The piece fits in well and lots of witness marks make sure we get it in the correct orientation.
   
   
   Curvatre is ever so slightly high but as we torch weld and hammer and dolly the shrinking will pull this down nicely.
   
   
   
7. Spend plenty of time fitting the piece. Cut outside the lines and grind to fit. More time spent now will save way more later.
   
   
   
   
   Holding the piece in from the back it is a nice tight fit. Using my heel dolly I gently worked the piece before starting to weld it in.
   
   
   
   
8. Now it is time to get some tack welds on the piece.
   
   
   Once the tacks are done start welding sections in around the circle. I like to skip around to reduce distortion. (Using SMITH torch with 01 tip and welding HOT and Fast.)
   
   
   Remember to hammer and dolly continually as you weld the piece in.
   
   
   Even with all the dolly work there was still a bit of extra crown so a quick heat shrink and we are there.
   
   
   
   
9. 
   Cleaned up with a grinder and holes in for the trim spear.
   
   Working with a DA and 80 grit a few more passes and the result will be ready for primer.
   
   
   
   
10. A few shots of the filled shell on the car with the stainless spear I made attached. Also, thanks to my friend Cory for taking all the pics as I plod along.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
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Nice, now some details on the cowl vents. Bob

 

yes! I also would like some info on the vents

 

Nice work and very resourceful!

 

Nice work and using old school welding skills! HRP

 

Nicely done. It is nice to see the extra work that went into the pre- fitment and not the post fitment with fillers. The old headlight trick was genius .

 

Awesome

 

very nice!

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/vote-now-tech-week-october-2015.995188/

Short time to vote

 

The Smith torch, is that a jeweller's torch? Info?

 

Bttt

 

The SMITH torch is the aircraft series with a 01tip