ok I am filling my doors in as soon as I get this all figured out. I could go the easy pansy route and just mig a filler plate in there and grind it smooth but I am thinking that Iw ould rather jsut tack it in and then lead it so that there are no pinholes and so if I so wished I could undo it fairly easily. now I could braze it but wanted to stay with something fairly low heat like body lead or a solder. only around here I can't even find a lead based solder....only lead free plumbing solder. I am not looking to have this be filled with the solder but just provide a structure for the joint and skim with filler. I was able to find tin bars and was wondering if I could get lead and alloy the two together (have melting pots for reloading and fishing junk) or is there a place that sells body lead cheaper than eastwood? I tried th elocal welding supply house and they only carry brazing rod as they mainly cater to fab shops and not plumbers.
If you fill in the doors, how you gonna get in the car? But seriously what are you building? I'm guessing you want to convert a 4 door to a 2 door. How about more info as to what car, and what you want to accomplish. If your doing what it sounds like in your post, your about to***** up your car.
I am simply filling in my door handle holes. and one would guess I am working on a 62 fairlane... the car is a two door and I am just goign to continue reaching in the wing windows as I have been for three years now.
If you want to get even more cheesy, you don't even need to cut a plug for a hole that size. I filled the antenna hole (1.5" diameter) in Munson's front quarter panel by placing an aluminum plate on the back and just pulsing my mig around the hole, allowing it to cool, until the hole was filled. If you plan on skimming it with filler anyway, this would be really easy. The hard part would be actually reaching in there with the piece of aluminum, so for that reason you may be better off cutting plugs.
well I was gonna cut a plug and solder it in place so they could be undone later on if needed. figured a plug cut and just soldered in place would give the quickest finish since there would be no weld to grind down. so what other no welding methods can be used?
A little info changes everything! I'd weld them up. MIG is fine, gas welding would be better. Or you could sweat patches over the holes with lead. Some of the better autobody supply stores still carry lead, but they are getting fewer all the time.
wrong pic... I used some old tube, no flux. It took DP90 ok.. I think this only works with a Henrob though. Some copper info. http://www.bellmanmelcor.com/cda110.htm Jdee
It's funny, most guys ask how they can cut corners and you seem to want to make it even harder. I'd just weld them up with steel patches and do it the tried and true way. If bone stock '62 fairlanes ever get so scarce, rare and valuable to the restorers that you want to re-install the handles it won't be that much harder to rework that section of the door anyway. drill it out if you ever need to.
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