...so are you considering the amber lense you removed cupped or flat?...the lense I shared mentions Harley but again no size and of course that may be not the flat you seek...
I'd prefer flat like I have in clear, but if not available then the amber like I have, which one of them is broken. The link you provided were for FL, if you click fitment and the + it lists the models.
Gotcha, I guess they made them clear if there available in other HD models...Custom Bike Shops maybe, I see you've looked on the EB... Maybe McMaster Carr, even Harbour Freight, Truck/RV/Farm accessory places might yield some fruit...that sucks...can you spray them with some white or color or use as is till something comes along?
I checked the local truck stop today with no luck, I did put some JB Weld on the broken lense, I'll see how it holds up. I'll order these if all else fails
Is the bolt spacing the same on the 3"... if, thats only 1/8" that has to come off the dia to fit...you can file, sand and polish that stuff...but if spacing is off and sealing lips are involved I suppose it can be easier said than done...
1964-1968 Mustang original clear backup light lens w/FoMoCo, SAE-R-64MG https://www.ebay.com/itm/385135200084 https://www.ebay.com/p/250896180 These look close but unfortunately everything is by fit not size...
The spacing on the 3 1/4 are 2 5/8, a local friend has a set and measured them out over the phone this morning. I thought about doing what you mentioned and slotting the holes, but I'll try my luck finding a set first.
These are time consuming issues but I think you'll find something...a phone call can get dia when its not available and perhaps HD can order the correct ones in...is there a part #behind the socket on the bucket?
The P21W is the only number, which comes back to the FL which is a different size, not sure if Harley just used the same numbers or what. I'll figure something out,I just looked through about 50 of those mustang links but none of them give a lense size, just a package size of 3x3x1.5, so it's close but then you don't know screw spacing either.
Seems most lens are by fit to vehicle...size is yours to discover...makes searching awkward...only a phone call would solve that... At least they're not 32 ford 3w glove box doors...cost wise...
I just ordered some smoke flat lenses for a sportster, should be here next week, hopefully they fit. Now in the mean time I'll put the driveshaft loop in, nice powdercoated piece
Of course the package arrived today with a single clear lens, going back and forth with the seller trying to either sending it back or getting the missing lens sent. I stuck it in there for a look see, clear doesn't look to bad but I think the smoke would look a little more subtle.
...That sucks...is that the cup shaped lens you shared in post #1535...It looks fine from the front...maybe it'll cast more light into that area as well...not enough to obscure which way your turning though... Is sort of goes with the tank and other silver details in that area... Mine are actually clear on the Hotrod...are smoked legal in your state?
It's a lense just like the amber colored ones, flat domed pancake, depending on the seller lol I see plenty of bikes with the smoked ones so I assume they're legal. The clear might cast light on the tank and create a "glowing" effect, ufo type shit ya know.
No lenses yet but I wired the turn signals up and finished running the wiring for those and the headlights, was about to say that all the wiring is complete, but I just remembered I need to reattach the line lock wire. Next I put the driveshaft safety loop in, took longer than I thought do to having to modify the bracket. Made a stainless line for the transmission vacuum modulator and while doing so I seen one of those damn float bowl screws was still leaking on that rear carb. I gave it a little tightening and it leaked worse, so I drained the bowl and changed that nylon gasket to fiber, I had thought I changed all of them to fiber before. With those items done I decided to align the front end today, I had an equation scrawled out that Albert Einstein would be proud of. I chased that 1/16th around for a bit but finally remembered which way to twist the tie rod to get the toe to go in the direction I wanted and got it locked down. Moved one of the gas pumps into the work area to get it out of in front of the inner garage door, slowly making progress on making a way out. Almost like an Arby's commercial
That rad looks plenty big to handle keeping the monster cool... When you mentioned gas pumps last time I looked all over for one of those gravity jobs...no wonder I didn't see it...
That's the style I remember pumping gas from as a young lawnmower pusher, a later maniac behind the wheel and much later those very same two pumps to fill up my Pepsi truck at work. I've got a plan for them if I can ever allot time to get them.
Great progress, car looks awesome. Just curious why you went full auto instead of manual reverse pattern.
This is still a street car, heck it's not even full manual, I can put this in D and not have to worry about shifting, which is great since it doesn't have cup holders or it can be full manual. Plus I can roll up next to my buddy while cruising and go right to neutral and give him a good intimidating rev, laugh and drop right back into D, something you certainly can't do with a reverse valve body. My 41 is a full manual reverse valve body, sometimes it gets hectic in there trying to shift, turn a corner and not spill your drink. The shifter in the J has a neutral lock out per say, so it's not like it can go into neutral from 3rd without activating the shifter anyways. To me the forward pattern is just more old school too, it's how I started banging gears as a teenager and that's what I'd like to hold onto. The T has the same modifications as the J, put it in D or full manual if you want, it won't shift until you shift it.
Batting a thousand today, lenses showed up, although they were said to be domed Only photo listed Damn things are the cup style ... ugh Not bad from head on Then I dropped one and broke the damn thing ! .
To continue, remember when I posted my dash lights and license plate lights working Yeah, they don't f'ing work anymore, no lights at all work and the horn doesn't work ! The turn signals work so it's not a ground, all fuses are good, unplugged the horn and that didn't make the lights work either, jammed the dimmer switch a half dozen times and nothing, so tomorrow I'll do more troubleshooting. I wired the line lock today and that does work And also used some clear tube for the radiator overflow to Eelco tank
Damn Swade can't get a break eh just the other kind of break......Reminds me of that saying one step forward two steps back...But you meet this stuff pretty matter of factly, good on you...the lights work for me and look decent...I get the domed thing but you'll be by so fast no one would see the shape to even question them...The Plate says...that's a good tune...
When I wired these lights I ran blue to blue in my harness and the purple to the harness brown, there's only 2 wires so I figured that was correct. Yesterday when I was checking the turn signals I noticed the tallest filament was lighting, honestly I never paid attention to which was what and what was which on other wiring jobs. After some research last night it said the short thicker filament was for turn signal, so I knew those were backwards, could that somehow be my culprit. My plan of attack was to correct that first and see, of course I flip flopped the bullet ends so they would lay nicer in the harness so I knew I would need to replace 2 ends and of course I cut the wires for no slack. I managed to stab myself only once opening up the crimps to get the wire back out, took forever. Well, that didn't help the no lights situation, so next I unplugged the headlights, still nothing, plugged those back in. I was trying to remember what all I changed after checking the dash lights and taillights a few months back, one thing was I had the two spades on the alternator backwards. I reversed those but still no lights, so I put them back the correct way, what next, let's check the glass fuse in the headlight switch for continuity, even though it didn't look blown last night. I pull the headlight switch out of the column drop to make getting the fuse out easier than last night, electrical tape is still in between the tight fitting wires and all wires are tight. Test the fuse with ohm meter and it's good, sanded the ends of the fuse just to make sure the connection was good, let's sand the switch too, just to make sure. I put the fuse in, double check it isn't hanging out the back to far touching that terminal in the back, all was good, next step was to check for power going into the switch, hang on, let me just check the lights before moving to the next step, one modification at a time please. Pull the knob and the dash lights come on, hot damn !, check parking lights and they're on too ! Now I'm wondering if the switch wires was somehow grounding on something but not blowing the fuse ? I put the switch back in the column drop, but instead of the wires pointing up towards the dash I put it in so wires are on the side, not as neat looking but no chance of making contact now.
Now I can't wait to see the whole enchilada with headlights and parking lights lit up, will the parking lights give the Eelco tank the ufo glow ??? Pull the switch all the way out, damn, 9 yrs is a long time to remember that the parking lights don't stay on when the headlights come on. It would've looked epic though Let's check the rear And in the dark Those parking lights put out some light up front
You must be able to wire it so that could happen...Just have a duel filament bulb and hook it to the wiring that runs the Taillights...I'm not an electrician but I think you'll know what I mean...Or run them full bright and wire it that one or the other flashes when the signals on...
Let me trouble shoot the horn since the lights worked out. Hmmm, how can I test if the horn is getting power with the multimeter by myself ??? Let's pull the horn off and test it first since I swapped mounting straps on it, which also doubles as the ground. Hook it up to the battery charger, HONK !, that's working ! Let me clean up the motor mount since I'm using one of the bolts for the mount/ground, still no honky. Now how can I check for that power, let me go inside and double check the switch for ground, looks good. Get the multimeter hit the button and nothing, what the hell I need three hands to hold these and push the button, let's try it again, nothing. Looking at button I push it again, nothing, let me rapid fire this cocksucker, hit hit hit hit HONK !, whoa, scared the shit out of me lol Turns out it was dusty and crusty from sitting, since I'm on a roll here I'll make up the ground strap from motor to frame and there you have it, a successful day ! Can't hardly see I mounted the other end to the shock bracket for ease of getting to it.
It's the type of headlight switch that determines if they come on or not, might be as simple as making a jumper wire from parking light terminal to headlight terminal.
The Jalopy Journal
