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Finally got my rear hung......

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hotroddder, Nov 12, 2003.

  1. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    Since I am still unemployed and I have finished most of the honey-do’s around the house, I decided to do a bit of work on my pickup…….

    I had to remount the 4 bars splayed out to fit the shocks between them and the frame so that I did not have to have an ugly bracket for the shocks….

    And I finally decided on a Watts link instead of a Panhard rod to locate the rear…

    I think it cam out rather well…….

    I built all of the suspension components but the bushings and the rod ends.

    A little more work on the rear kick to make it look better, and I can move on to the transmission mount……..
     

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  2. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    More
     

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  3. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    More & More
     

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  4. Shiva69
    Joined: Oct 4, 2001
    Posts: 154

    Shiva69
    Member

    wow to me that looks amazing
    thanks for the update
    Garth
     
  5. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    N-More
     

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  6. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    Last
     

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  7. tucker
    Joined: Jan 9, 2003
    Posts: 122

    tucker
    Member

    Looks good. Does that connector on top of the housing pivot with the up and down movement of the rear? It seems like that would really save room vertically.
     
  8. Dirty Dug
    Joined: Jan 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,722

    Dirty Dug
    Member

    Post deleted by dirty dug
     
  9. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    There are rod end on both ends of the watts links, and the center bracket swivels. It keeps the rearend centered through out the total up and down travel.

    A Panhard rod moves the rearend side to side a little bit as the rod moves up and down past center.....
     
  10. Dirty Dug
    Joined: Jan 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,722

    Dirty Dug
    Member

    Post deleted by dirty dug
     
  11. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    Most of the ones I have seen are mounted to the rear of the rearend. By putting it on the top I think it looks cleaner.

    I get full movement of the rearend up and down, as far as the shocks will allow.
     
  12. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    Here is a closeup of center pivot.....
     

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  13. Dirty Dug
    Joined: Jan 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,722

    Dirty Dug
    Member

    Post deleted by dirty dug
     
  14. Dirty Dug
    Joined: Jan 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,722

    Dirty Dug
    Member

    Sorry, I didn't read the part about the center piece pivoting. Interesting approach.
     
  15. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,318

    AHotRod
    Member

    Nice quality work !
     
  16. Hey man....real nice fab work. Especially on the watts link.

    Amazing what u can do when you have the nous and the time eh!! I was unemployed for some time with very little money but the creative juices were flowin' and I fabbed everything for very little $$$ !!!

    Rat [​IMG]
     
  17. 28rpu
    Joined: Mar 6, 2001
    Posts: 417

    28rpu
    Member

    I would think a person would want that center pivot to be a bushed or bearing connection. Things will wear out too quickly if it's not. If you got something hidden in there excuse me. [​IMG]
     
  18. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    There is a bronze bushing inside the center pivot
     
  19. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    [ QUOTE ]
    Most of the ones I have seen are mounted to the rear of the rearend.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Nice clean solution.I'm guessing the center pivot rides on a bronze bushing.
    Jack Roush used a similar set up on the rear of their Trans Am cars,only mounted on the bottom of the center section.Mounting on the bottom would give a lower rear roll center,desireable for racing but not an issue on the street.
     
  20. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 25,924

    Roothawg
    Member

    They doubted my bellcrank too......... [​IMG]
     
  21. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,367

    atch
    Member

    interesting approach. all the watts link setups i've ever seen had the links mounted "high & low" rather than "front & back". after giving this much thought i can't see any reason that vertical oriented mounting would work any better or worse than horizontal, as long as you have the rod ends oriented like you do.

    the one thing i believe will happen with your setup is that there will be a hell of a twisting force exerted on the vertical stud in the top of the housing, due to the "turn downs" on the two ends of the center link. that puts the axis of the force somewhere other than in line with the center bushing.

    don't know if i explained myself very well on this last point.

    (added by edit): i understand that you need the direction of the pivot on both ends of your links to be in the same direction, but maybe you should remake that short center link with a couple of bends in it so that a line drawn through the center of those two holes ALSO pases through the very center of the center vertical hole. just a thought.

    btw; very nice work.
     
  22. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Nice job! (You are gonna do some additional boxing on the frame in that area, right? [​IMG] )
    We had a big discussion on the HAMB last year about this type of mounting...it was suggested that it wouldn't work!
    I think it will work just fine.
    If I were doing it I'd try to brace the center pivot bolt by adding a top plate that folds down on either side and welds to the housing, thus mounting the pivot in double shear.

    Since the HAMB discussion, I've discovered that a suspension company called Thompson Motorsports uses a similar, but bottom mounted, design on their early Mustang coilover retrofit suspensions. (It's a piece of work too!) On the TM kit, the center pivot is formed from two separated plates with a bush down the middle and sandwiched studs sticking out at both ends for the Heims to slip over. That would increase the rigidity of the pivot but would also raise the height of your setup slightly.

    Thinking about it...I wonder would it be an idea to add an extra thickness of plate to your pivot, welded down both sides (but NOT across) just to limit the potential for stress cracking at the pivot center hole?
    Just a thought...

    Man! Shes gonna be low!!! [​IMG]

    Bill

    Hmmmm....Atch and I are thinking alike on the need for some reinforcement in that area...
     
  23. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    Atch, That's an interesting thought. I really don't want to get much higher than I am already......

    Even tho the 4 bar bars are 36 inches long, I built them out of oversized DOM tubing, so I don't expect more twisting than can't be absorbed in the rod ends on the Watts links.

    Hacker Bill. Yes, the complete frame will be boxed, and I plan on boxing the tops and bottoms of the brackets for the Watts Links, leaving just enough room to get the rod end in and give it full range of motion.

    I like your thoughts about strengthing the center pivot....

    I have strengthened the rearend hosing inside where the center pivot bolts attaches as well......
     
  24. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,669

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    NICE. I have no real need for that on my car but it's so damn smart and clean looking that I want to add it anyway. That's definitely something to file away. Techomatic.
     
  25. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,669

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Also, I'm missing this "twisting force" that you are talking about, atch. Looks to me like it's free to move about any which way it would need to - except side to side. Aren't those gigantic four bars, dealing with any sort of twisting?

    Root - For the record, I thought the bellcrank was smart and clean.
     
  26. zibo
    Joined: Mar 17, 2002
    Posts: 2,361

    zibo
    Member
    from dago ca

    that looks great!
    I have a design for a watts link for my '53 suburban,
    (it needs it)

    from the pictures,
    visualizing it move up and down seems correct.

    can you take pics of it at a hi and lo?

    reinforcing the top bolt with a top bent-strap/bolt-on
    might be a good idea if you are a hard driver,
    but those rearends are kinda thick anyway.

    thanks

    what does it go under again?

    tp aka zibo
     
  27. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    It's in my 56 Chev P/U. Running a Cadillac 500 and turbo 400.....

    I have added some of the suggestions from the board, and I will post updated pics as soon as my camera battery recharges.....
     
  28. zibo
    Joined: Mar 17, 2002
    Posts: 2,361

    zibo
    Member
    from dago ca

    no wonder everything's so heavy duty
    how much is gas over there?
    travis
     
  29. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    If you gotta worry about the price of gas, don't build a hotrod....

    More picks
     

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  30. Hotroddder
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 290

    Hotroddder
    Member
    from Auburn, WA

    Full up travel.....
     

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