Projects Finally I get my Flathead powered T Roadster

the lower shaft made from 4140 heat treated steel, turned between centers the only way. the

 

the pinion bearing retainer

 

I was wondering how you were going to solve that....easy peasy!

 

Bone31, as a retired aircraft tool & die maker and A&P mechanic I love your work. I really miss having all the machines of a shop to build stuff with. Now I'm building with a drill press and belt sander, but it's fun seeing how you are doing this quick change.

 

Tom I am lucky I have had my shop at home 18 yrs. made a living here for 15 yrs.In the shop 7 days a week never get enough.

 

Jethro glad you like it starting to get good.

 

this is my dividing head made in 1933, any division of a circle can be made, or a movement of lets say 7 degrees and 21 mins.as there are 60 mins. in one degree.Also this is the way you cut gears will cut any number of teeth, the lower left shaft was hooked to a drive now we can cut helical gears.

 

there are a set of plates with hole patterns,we are cutting six splines it takes 40 turns to make one chuck rev.I an using a 42 hole circle 6 turns plus 28 holes make cut repeat.

 

ruff out spline with 3/16 carbide cutter full depth,next I made a solid carbide four side cutter I make most all my cutters, that is a job done on the surface grinder.

 

Damn, Mike! So cool!!

And congrats Tim on the T!

 

Mock up with engine in place, stance looks good. Frame is coming together.
Doing excellent work on that QC Mike. Love it!

 

Cool Tim.

 

the bearing is a .001 press fit on the drive shaft end,grinding the bearing retainer.

 

the bearing is up .001 so the retainer plate holds the outside race from turning, the torque tube also covers the plate trapping everything .The transfer of the bluing confirms the fit.

 

the bearing holder fits in a pocket,all the fits are .001 or less.

 

the bearing is. up .001 the top cover holds everything tight

 

the shaft goes in from the drive shaft end, the bearing fit on the qc end is .0005 half thou.shown is the gear spacer and gears.everything is safety wired.Bolts are under a lot of stretch the problem is they may not come loose with loctight or lock washers or lock nuts but if they break they will cause a lot of damage flying around. The little tabs that bend up against the bolt hex can only bend one time if you use them again you know what happens.They still do not contain the bolt head, so safety wire is another thing we learned from old Henry.

 

things did not work good today on the one eye monster. Started the rear bearing plate today.

 

Just curious, is that a Monarch I see?

 

LeBlond 1956

 

Thanks for giving up all this specialized knowledge, always wondered how it was done. If I buy some tools all I need now is a six year apprentiship.

 

Moving right along. Derrek has my frame together and I will be taking the rear end to his shop this Sat. to measure the tube to cut.


Also BIG thanks go out to Eric (daddio211) for scoring a much better body for me. I will see him at GNRS next week to pick it up. Very exciting!

 

That looks great Tim, exciting isn't it. Good that Eric was able to get a line on that body.

 

Nice project


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

starting on the rear housing,parts in welding jig

 

will machine this side then flip over in the jig and weld the other side. w

 

@bone31, I've always admired your work, even more so now with the updates you show. I would love love love to have one of these under my 26 Roadster, in the future.

 

Great guide in building this QC rear!

 

That stance is PERFECT. This one is shaping up to be a killer little car.