Projects Finally My '26 Chevy Roadster Build

Twisted- New tools are always good if you have the room. A tiny lathe & a giant miil sounds great. I haven't mounted the DRO stuff I got.

Tim- I have thought of goats for a long time but am afraid they wouldn't do well with the coyotes & mountain lions. They say if a fence won't hold water it won't hold goats.

GG2- That dog has been bitten at least 3 times. I've lost count. She has a post graduate degree in Rattlesnake Avoidance but has her own methods holds a real grudge. Her snake bark is a clear call to me and there is a difference between the two kinds of snakes. She is pit bull and border collie smart & bad ass.

I saw some roadster parts yesterday when I was in the shop getting tools for the wood chipper.

 

You ever get your carbs back?

 

Sixball call your Roadster Snakekiller...or Rattlin Ragtop...5 feet long......glad your busy...keeps the joints moving...

 

While we are here can you confirm
That the stock flat top 307 pistons do fit a stock bore stock rod 153?

I thought that was the truth then saw a bunch of confusing cross info and figured you have both
In your hands so I’d ask for confirmation

 

the 307 is 3.8745- the 153 is 3.8750 The wrist pin height is also something you need to take into account.
ex. 250 and the 307 has the same wrist pin height. as that of the 230 and 283.
So, if you're doing an over bore, I'm sure you could get away with them.

 

Six Ball, the main dims. for now are as shown in the marked up pics.
A B, & C for #5
A is horizontal distance before the kickup to the front of #5 (This will let me locate the front end & I'll just add to the tail end to match the kickup)

A B & C for #6
A is distance from the front of the notch for #9 to the front of #6 (This will locate the front end of #6. I'll set #6 on #5 and mark and cut the tail end to match.)
On width of #6 just give me the max dim.
B & C height and width

I can adjust the back ends of these and mark out the fender divot as I get the tin in place. (And maybe ask for another dim or two!)

Offset for the trunk boards to set on at the front of #5 & #6

Thanks much! And like I said, don't push yourself there is no huge rush!

 

@Six Ball Glad to see this thread kicking on.

 

Tim. Remember my 153 has a 181 crank so the piston sits a little higher. With a standard bore 307 pistons would be perfect but the piston makers drop the piston down the hole when over bored. The forged flat tops are Ross for a 250 Chevy six made to Tom Lowe's specs. They are a bit tall by design. 307 pistons work in 250 sixes. Pretty sure 283 pistons work in the 153. Way easier than my "stroker" which has turned out to be a pain in the butt. A 181 would have bee much easier, but I didn't have one. The 181 is a 4" bore and would use 350 or maybe 327 pistons, I forget. The Ross pistons stickup .020" above the deck. Probably should use them with a .040" gasket and get on with it. I really need to get back to my notes and just make a decision and go with it.
I got the carbs back and picked up a few more pieces that may or may not end up on the car. Pictures soon I hope.

Larry, I'm just not sure anymore I started this build way back when I had a memory.

GG2. Sorry I forgot my wife had plans for my morning and I blew the afternoon. Measurements are top if the list tomorrow. Will we have to build a couple of these and adjust the pieces to make patters? I don't know how I'd deal with putting something together to find the metal didn't fit.

Outback. thanks I almost missed your post!

And Stogy the names I give my cars can't be painted in them.

 

Ok so 283 piston stock rod for 153. The wrist pin location is correct etc?

just crossing my T’s before I commit it to memory

 

Six Ball, I'm planning on starting with the cheap wood. If the tin doesn't fit I'll do another one. If it does fit, that will become the pattern. I think that getting to putting on the tin with "good wood" and having not fit might be the end of my work on these old cars!

 

Tim, Yes I believe so. The rods on the 181 are the same length but the big end is the same as the later small block rather than the 283. This is all for the two piece main seal engines the later ones complicate things. The 153 rods are the same as a 230 six. Not sure about 194-250 but probably. I also think they are the same as some small block rods except the V8 rods are machined on one side so they can sit side by side on the crank journal. If we could get the V8 rods before they do that we would have a lot more rod & piston choice.

GG2, You are the only other one I know crazy enough to try this. If you pack it in mine will be steel or at least a combo of patched and new wood. Get you some measurements in a bit.

 

Ok cool. Much easier to find good aftermarket 283 pistons than 307 in my experience

 

194,230,250 are all the same rods.

 

Crazy is the word for it! Don't worry, I've got a good feeling for this wood this year! I plan on getting all of the parts to come together with the tin!
Sence I have thinking hard on wood, I think that I've run onto the secret to get around no seat structure for using bucket seats. I will have to figure a way to draw this out to be understandable but here is the jest. #22 could be replaced with a structural rectangle tube. It will take up more room, but make that to the back of the body. On the ends of the new tube weld on a torque arm on each end to go to the "B" pilar #11. weld on a vertical to go up the back side of the "B" pilar and bolt through. The torque arm to lay on the sill and bolt to it also. Do this on each side making a U shape with a kickup on the ends. Two 1" or 1 1/4" tubes could connect the two torque arms to each other to add strength and also mount the bucket seat slides to. (Take all the seat wood between #22 and #11 out for a clean floor) #12 would have to be modified to match the new #22 tube. It could also be changed to a tube.

Is that crazy enough????

 

Totally nuts! I can't visualize it but have given thought to a similar modification.
I got it all measured and did some drawings then spilled oil on them. I took some more pictures too but can not figure how to add text to the photos. I also can not figure out how to scan the drawings to my computer, I need to redo them any way. no one piece looks difficult and there are some places where we can check our accuracy as we go. I'll load the photos any way.

The offset for the trunk floorboards begins at 1" and is 3/4" by the back end of 5R. This offset is a flat surface all the way back to 4 over 2R, 3R,& 7R. I think the floorboards are all the same length so this is likely to do with angles of the body , frame, sills and these parts. #4 will be key here.

6R is made of two pieces but is 3/4" thick x 3 1/4" wide at front and 29 1/2" long on top. The body cut out begins a 19 3/4" to the back. At the back it is 2 5/8" wide. Side view it is 3/4" thick for 26 13/16", maybe 26 7/8" Then it angles to 1/4" in 2 5/8" at the end. I have measurements for the body bolt access hole and 3 screw holes to attach it to 5R.

5R is 24 5/8 long on top & is 2" tall and 1 3/4" wide. The front has a angle that probably matches the angle of the seat back. being longer on the bottom. The angle can be found by using the other measurements. From the bottom front it is 15 1/8" to where it begins to slant upward to fit with 2R. That slant is 10 1/4" long. It is 3/16" maybe 1/4" at the end.

This will be easier when I can add the measurements the the pictures and post the drawings. I also need the measure 2R, 3R, 7R and 1R and the left side too. Crap, just writing the #s on the wood before I took the pictures would have helped.

 

Thanks a hole lot! It'll take me awhile to digest this, but looking good! I'm going to print off your post and the older pictures of the mark wood numbers. (The old mind cannot keep it all straight for long enough.) With your additional info, it should clarify everything. I really appreciate all of your work! I'm not sure if I would succeed without you! What am I saying? Without your partnership and your wood, I'd still be setting on a pile of 25 patterns!

 

Hey. We are in this together! Just a few minutes ago I marked those pieces in places that will show in pictures and I'll take all of those again. When you first sent pictures with numbers I put them on all of my pieces but not in places that show like they need to. Every time I actually handle my wood I feel more confident. eek I am also sure that if we had a good set of patterns that could be scanned Steve could cut them with his CNC machine. He could mark or even drill holes. I doubt if there is any demand.

 

Sometimes you would be surprised as to what has what demand. Especially for what you guys are doing there may very well others that just have things sitting around (projects) Just because they themselves may not be sure on how to go about it doesn't mean it won't get done Just maybe not as soon as they would like. Because of the lack of help or Ideas.

 

We won't have anything to sell because all of the measurements & details will be right here for free. I have searched for many years for this information and have never found any plans or drawings for these years if open cars. The closed Fisher body plans can be found.

 

I have to keep reminding myself that this is where we are going. It is a '32 but close enough to make the point. Before we fit the metal panels we will have a complete wood framework with opening & closing doors and trunk that we can measure, fit, adjust and rebuild as needed. It will be solid but open to some adjustment Some pieces we can get dead on others will be made to fit these pieces. Make some pieces on the big side so material can be removed to fit them. Maybe some slots or notches a bit small to ensure a tight fit. Any part not quite right can be removed and remade. All mistakes can be used for firewood. Camp fires are relaxing. . To some degree the metal can be made to fit as I am sure it was at the factory. Just trying to get my head around it. For me the complete solid frame work is key because I have never seen one.

 

You got it Six Ball! I know how you feel! You should have seen me when my first roadster arrived with only, I think 7 pieces of wood. And wood in one door, no trunk!
A few additional things. Use smaller and shorter screws (and only a few) for the first assembly. That way the screw hole can be moved if needed to fit. Also use something like sidewalk chalk when trying to fit tin to the wood. It will tell where the interference is. Adjust the wood and use another color chalk for the next check fit. (Similar to color sanding to find high spots when doing body work)

 

I'm not good at body work either. I found the left side today and it has #8L in good shape. I'll try to get more pictures posted tomorrow. I should be getting the rest of the pegboard up so all of this is accessible again with space to actually work. There is too much "life" happening and I'm no good at using the little moments between the other mandatory tasks.

 

I hear you about too much "life" happening. We have been running around chasing our tails! Usually too tired to think about anything else! I have started doing a lot better about getting that tractor out of my shop though. I set a required finish date and I think it will come out even if it is not done! I have decided that I WILL start fitting wood on the frame this winter. I do not think that I have the dims. for #8, so it is good to find #8L in good shape.

 

It would be good if we both tried that. If we got our shops in order it could be a very productive winter.
I was going through the pictures in the thread and spotted #8R in the background of a seat assembly picture between the glue bottle & the red jar lid. It must be hidden under the pile on the chassis table. Looks to be in good shape. It appears to be marked.

 

That's looking Great Awesome job.

 

OK, Another photo dump. Even this time I didn't get numbers in all the right places. I could not lay hands on 8R today. I think it is in the pile buried on the chassis table. I'll do two groups R & L.

 

It looks like You picked that body off the ground just in the nick of time by looking at 1R.

 

I studied 8L some and it looks like the 6 & 8 pieces are hand fitted where they run along the fender indent on quarters. Were they fitted to be tight or to clear enough is they didn't rattle? See the earlier photo showing the inside of the quarter & the trunk floorboards. OK, the left. What looks like a 4 in these is really a crappy 8. It looks like the #3s are going to be the most challenging pieces to make. They have a lot going on. These assemblies could almost be whittled from an couple of 8x8s.

 

I saw it sitting on the ground for over 10 years when Bill Anderson of Ponderosa Ranch fame would consider nothing less than $1,000 for it. I got it from the guy that got it from him for a lot less than that. It also almost burned up while it sat there.

Now I'll try to scan the drawings again.

 

One of the other things to do that I've been told is to put friction tape between the wood and the body where they are tight to relieve the squeaking/rattling.
The various views of the numbered pieces really helps to get the feal of things!

There is a bolt hole in the tapered end of 1 R & L, but I do not see it on the opposite side. Am I missing something, or do you think that these were 'lag studs'.