Technical Finishing Off Fasteners

As I’m working through mock-up on my AV8 front end, fastener choice consistently comes to mind. Naturally, I’ll favor safe and functional over all, but seeing modern bolt markings or Torx caps is a little cringy. Always got a kick out of the use of acorn nuts on this build. Any other cool techniques you guys are employing?

 

Also love the spacers between frame and shock mounts on this one. Any idea what those are??

 

I have used stainless flanged head bolts in the past. The reduced head looks a lot neater and they polish up nicely

 

I'll go with the acorn caps but am not a big fan of cleaning the markings off grade 8 or other high strength fasteners just to make them cuter. No markings on a bolt head mean that it is a grade 2 bolt in most folks book.

Im absolutely no fan of stainless bolts in suspension or steering where it is critical. They usually have less strength than a run of the mill made in China Grade 2 bolt. You use stainless because they are pretty and don't rust, you don't use them for strength. Don't believe me go into the tensile and shear strength of various bolts chart.

 

You get what you pay for in any bolt, including stainless. If you want shiny and strong, then folks like ARP will supply stainless bolts that are damn good in shear and load.

Cheers,
Harv

 

It is the little details that make a difference. I'm guilty of smoothing the heads of bolts but I draw the line at clocking them all so that they all line up straight.

 

I'm a nut for thick head original Ford bolts. I'll spend many more hours cleaning some up when I could easily order new bolts from McMaster Carr.

 

All the visible fasteners on the outside of my Fargo are smoothed and polished Stainless, yup I’m an idiot…
I put a slight dome on the head and polish. I have hours into bolts.

 

I’m a airplane ,race car kind of guy
Every thing should be drilled and properly safety wired with nice stainless wire

 

I don't like exposed threads or 'empty' holes so I cap the bolts with acorn nuts and fill unused threaded holes with SS ****on heads. I use nothing less than grade 8 or quality stainless.(grades 2 & 5 for mock up only) I will not remove any marking on bolt heads, so I or someone else knows what to replace them with,
should the need arise. Also safety wire and Nord- locks where possible. 3 of the head bolts on my Olds have studded extensions for AC, PS These have SS spacers & acorns

 

Don’t like doing ****on head and hex head are Allen together. Do like flanged bolts and flange washers.
Have helped on several tri five cars. Do my best to use the old fasteners if they look good.

 

Take a look at Carroll Smith's book, "Nuts, Bolts, and Fasteners". Every time I read it I learn something new.. Well worth it if you build cars.

 

Me too. I have a bucket that I keep filling up. Once it gets full enough, I bring it to a plater who cleans them and treats them to a black zinc oxide coating. I then sort them in metal boxes.

Nothing like being able to use original Ford hardware when you need it.

 

I try to reuse old bolts and lock nuts when I can, even old regular bolts with good markings on the head. I do use some stainless in un seen rust prone areas and then paint them black (or interior trim but only exactly like oem slothead)
I have used ARP stuff in the past but only the 6 point stuff, I avoid ****on, allen, torx head like the plague.

I’m almost as bad as a restorer.

 

When I used to work on Ford basket cases, I'd use all Chrysler & GM hardware. Nobody ever noticed.

 

I knew there was something I liked about you! And I see you index the flats. Thats proper ****!

 

I can’t afford chrome…and trying to put the box together and mirrors on etc after paint the paint on the bolts is always screwed up in the process so it looks touched up, the polished stainless solved that problem, I have polished aluminum/stainless for many years, professionally in a former career. I like shiny things as well.

 

Slotted screws and square headed nuts and bolts. Traditional.

 

Have you rigged up a convex bowl (wood or whatever), put the bolt in your drill press and line the bowl with different grits until ready for the polish wheel. My favorite. Saves on fingers

 

I chuck the bolt in my cordless drill and shape/sand the head on a fine belt on a 1” belt sander then to the buffing wheels. All while spinning the bolt with the drill.

The flat washers are hard on fingers though…

 

Since only one side is visible, I use a steel punch that is tapered so that I can slide a 1/4, 3/8, or 5/16 SS washer on it and run it across the buffer. Works well.

 

Never thought of that. Now you tell me!

 

Before and during, polished in Tripoli rouge. Still needed final buffing.

 

Something like this cut down to fit the purpose?

 

More like a steel spacer was used with an interior escushion covering it.

 

I'm a huge fan of aviation style safety wiring - just for looks.

 

Looks amazing!!

 

Weld in Tank Bung Fitting , reused for a different purpose . Looks cool as hell to me .

 

Forgive my use of "NT" bolts ,etc. A leftover influence from H-D cycle tinkering. I keep old Ford & GM bolts too, quality steel. There are guys up this way that will buy carc*** cars just for the factory fasteners

 

Nothing to feel bad about. I was just commenting to Alchemy's post. All good!